tauzero

The thing about That Ebay is that if you're willing to take a risk and put on a low start price (and aren't terribly bothered by losing a bit of money), you know it'll sell in ten days (or less), so for the cheaper end of the market it's not a bad thing.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1408175625' post='2527761'] It's just fashion. Much the same as the current trend to relic everything. Don't be surprised if in a few decades time people will be asking on forums 'why did they feel the need to relic everything in the 2010s'. [/quote] ITYF people are asking that now.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1408107477' post='2527186'] For £85 I'd expect to get a whole Gary Moore. [/quote] He'd be a little smelly by now, even by alcoholic guitarist standards.

A secondhand Grind 6 would set you back £125. Well, the one I sold went for that anyway <small sob>. Wouldn't have sold it if I actually had a use for a six.

[quote name='razze06' timestamp='1407755390' post='2523561'] Fair enough, I agree with you. I realize that I'm not that interested in the low B after all, so I'm not really prepared to go to the troubles of revising my gear and my technique on the off chance that I might use a low note in one of our covers... [/quote] I very rarely go below bottom E but I choose 5-string as it's not about the extra low notes, it's about being able to play more across than up and down, and having a bigger tonal selection.

Some years ago, I bought some Warwick necks in PMT - one was a short-scale, which I think would have been a direct swap for any bolt-on model. As I completely ran out of tuits, I sold them on.

Nice low action.

I was surprised at the price until I looked on the Warwick shop and saw the price of the two-piece bridge and tailpiece. Coming on for four times as much as the Schaller 3D (which I personally think is the nicer bridge). Eeek!

My Grind 6 went for £125 so they're rather less well rated than they deserve. That 4-string fetched £165 so not too bad.

I had a Hartke Kickback combo a little while back - the 12" speaker version. I bought it with a knackered speaker and put in a replacement reasonably good quality driver, and it turned out well. I think I used it on a couple of club gigs (with a low B 5-string) and it coped well.

I'd agree with that, and rather predictably I'd suggest the Zoom B3 - unlike other multifx where you're rather circumscribed as to your options (there'll be a compressor/limiter, preamp, modulation, reverb, amp sim) , the B3 gives you three stompboxes in a row which you can do what you like with.

You might want to change those URLs in the links, they point to Oxfordshire council's webmail system...

Listing now amended. There is one considerable omission he's made in the title and description. It's rather obvious when you look at the pictures (except for the very last one, of course) that it's a headless. However, if you do a search for "headless" in titles and descriptions, as I do every few days, it doesn't appear. It's not the only time I've seen this - don't sellers realise that people do text searches for terms like "fretless" or "headless"?

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1407583577' post='2521997'] To be fair, it is a ridiculous looking thing! Though it could be argued it's all a bass player really needs [/quote] Depends what genre you're playing. For country and for disco, you'd need a two-string - for country tuned to root and 5th, and for disco tuned in octaves.

Now we know what bass Captain James T Kirk would fall in love with.

As you've got a pair of phono sockets on it too, you could use a stereo phono lead and a stereo phono to mono jack adaptor, eg. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-MONO-1-4-Jack-Plug-to-2-x-RCA-Phono-Female-Socket-Audio-Splitter-Adaptor-/331058063599"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-MONO-1-4-Jack-Plug-to-2-x-RCA-Phono-Female-Socket-Audio-Splitter-Adaptor-/331058063599[/url]

[quote name='isteen' timestamp='1406983836' post='2516430'] The Zoom b3 looks neat, and also have rythm patterns build in, but I've head it really don't sound good enough for using with a band or on stage. [/quote] Was the person who said that someone whose opinion you value?

Dreadful things. I passed on one because it was so horrible to play. Of course, I didn't realise that there would be a huge rise in the value of old crap that a Beatle had played.

Back in the USSR by the Beatles at a hall of residence gig at International Hall in That London, a month or so before I dropped out of university. So that would have been 1976.

I have the G50 - I use Eneloop batteries with it (rechargables which will stay charged when not in use) which last two or three gigs, though I now tend to change them at each gig.

The world's most uncomfortable toilet?

I've just bought one of these: [url="http://www.tc-helicon.com/products/voicetone-create-xt/"]http://www.tc-helicon.com/products/voicetone-create-xt/[/url] and it's pretty good. It allows you to have two patches that you can switch between (A and with a total of 10 pairs of two patches. So Mrs Zero can have reverb for most of the time and chuck some delay in now and again, and [s]forget to[/s] turn the reverb off between songs. Now discontinued, it would appear, but Thomann got a batch in at the end of June.

I use it as a three pedal unit too. Generally I use the same three effects (or subsets thereof) for all songs (chorus and amp sim, reverb to thicken things up for some guitar solos), but there's a few that I use just on one song so there's a separate couple of patches for those.

Using a single resistor won't work correctly (I have a feeling I may have suggested it earlier but I hadn't thoguht it through). As you go from one to two lit elements, you're doubling the current through the resistor while putting two LEDs in parallel, thus halving their resistance, and it's far too late for me to work out exactly what'll happen but essentially you'll be reducing the voltage across the LEDs. So if the red LED has a lower threshold than the blue LED and the voltage drops to just below the threshold voltage, you'll just see the red. So bridge the single resistor and put the same value resistor between each switch and the respective LED cathode.