neepheid

Bought some tuners from Gareth. Sent promptly, well packaged, good communication. Everything you want from a successful transaction. Thanks!

There's already a thread in Bass Porn for this: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/112380-orange-bass-porn/

Nickel Hartke 45-105s almost exclusively. If they don't fit (ahem, RD Artist) then it's super long D'Addario XL nickels. Both have a nice feel, not too rough but not too smooth and they're plenty bright enough for me.

PHAT.

[quote name='Astrosmurf' timestamp='1364485882' post='2027158'] Got a battery box here, gonna try and fit it this weekend [/quote] I really must learn to read

Looks very similar to the saddle arrangement in ABM bridges to me. Little separate saddle that has two grub screws in it for height adjustment. No idea if they're the same size though. Could measure one for you tonight.

Yeah, somewhere to stuff the battery.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' timestamp='1364463421' post='2026733'] I don't NEED to sell it to buy the Jazz but everytime I've had 3 basses, one never leaves it's case so it's self imposed. [/quote] I have a brood of 9 with a rule - "all instruments are to be played". Not my rule, but I'm happy to comply - I play 'em all on rotation. I even keep a wee spreadsheet to keep track of how many gigs each one has done. Sad maybe, but I like to keep a note of every gig I played - when, where, who with, which bass.

And once again, eBay completely ignores reports of fake gear, I don't know why I bother.

[quote name='ChickenKiev' timestamp='1364397148' post='2025902'] Aye yeah, plus I think the Phoenix is made of Maple or Basswood with a bolt-on neck, so it's a different animal completely to a real Gibbo. Never knew the neck was the same length though. I suppose it's an optical illusion. [/quote] Product knowledge: http://www.espguitars.co.uk/bass-ltd-phoenix204.html [quote] Okay I'll place the split-P in the middle then and squish it next to the bridge-position soapbar. And I definitely want it to sound like a P . Hopefully it'll be like a Precision+. Maybe like one of those Precision Deluxes I've seen knocking about. [/quote] I didn't say squish it next to the bridge pickup or any such vague thing. I said place it in the same place as it would be on a Precision with reference to the scale length. That means taking your measurements from a known common point between the two basses (like the nut, or the 20th fret) on a Precision and then applying that exact same measurement to the LTD when marking where to put the pickup - ignoring how it looks - it will appear to be slightly closer to the end of the fingerboard than on a P because a P only has 20 frets and this one has 21, but it'll be in the same place with regard to the scale length and the speaking length of the strings.

Let me address a few misconceptions: The LTD is exactly the same scale length as a Precision (34"). An Epiphone Thunderbird is hardly representative of all Thunderbirds. Different wood, different pickups, different construction. The only thing that an Epiphone Thunderbird (a bolt on neck one anyway) has in common with a Gibson Thunderbird is the shape and the parent company. Misplaced generalisations are not helpful. Put the split P in the same place as it would be on a P bass relative to the scale length and it'll sound ... similar to a P.

This probably isn't going to do much good because we're up in Aberdeen, but I may as well try The Inevitable Teaspoons are looking for a singer, someone with a big voice, a small ego and sense of humour. We're a new band, primarily playing R&B/blues/rock originals. Current band composition is bass, drums, keys/mouthy, trombone. We work very much as a collaboration so all songwriting input is welcome. If you can play a bit of sax when you're not singing, that would be amazing Recent rehearsal recordings are available for interested parties.

Would love to help, but I'm in Aberdeen, so it's got quite a way to travel before it even thinks of meeting up with me, sorry!

All I would say is that there's no reason on a new build to use tuners with press fit bushings. Screw in ones are a little more chunky looking, granted but they never lift out under string tension unless something else is seriously wrong. Any Schallers apart from BM/BMFL use screw in bushings. Hipshot Ultralites also use screw in - very nice quality, reversible tuner available in lots of finishes, sizes and button styles. Oh, and also Grover Titans (which are kinda like Schaller M4S, but are secured with two screws instead of the pins of the M4S (which you must make holes in the back of the headstock for)) and Gotoh GB7. Oh yes, and pins are neater than screws, invisible fixings: But a little bit more of a faff to install - place tuner where it's supposed to go, push down on it to make the pins leave a little mark, remove tuner, drill some very careful, not very deep holes then refit tuner. It ends up like this:

As I always say to any torturer - "if you're going to remove any fingers, make them the pinkie and ring finger of my right hand"

Pretty much. You'll get there, keep at it.

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1363354948' post='2011689'] Has anyone gone from a clan to 1? [/quote] No chance, I love the variety too much. I think I have 9 just now with one perpetually under construction because I'm lazy. I do feel like that's a ceiling figure though, dictated by storage space. A 6 in line rack, one in a gigbag, one on a single stand and one at work. No room for any more

Just got me one of those Epiphone Jack Casady models:

[quote name='Smythe' timestamp='1364025962' post='2020968'] The power amps Behringer do (crossover ones for PA speakers) are great. Their bass amplification is something left to be desired.. Mind you its no worse than Hartke. [/quote] Great. More generalised bitching about a particular brand in a thread about generalised bitching about a particular brand - that's exactly what we need. I've had nothing but positive experiences with every Hartke amp I've used. I take it you got a bad one. These things happen, but it's not a barrel of apples, you know...

"Instruments are to be played". My wife is cool with me buying as many basses as I like, but I have to get around to playing them all at some point - no collecting, no basses stashed under the bed. She also has threatened to divorce me if I bring home any "pointy" basses, so it's just as well I'm not keen on silly shapes as I don't want to test how serious she is about that point

And a very squiffily placed decal at that. FAIL.

[quote name='bagsieblue' timestamp='1363949008' post='2019908'] I've recently picked up a Google Nexus 7. Can anybody recommend any good apps for bass related activites? [/quote] Chordbot is good - generates chord sequences for you to play along with. Knows about lots of chord types. The free version is not bad, but the paid one has lots of different comping styles and has the randomise option to generate random (but musically sensible) sequences. Can save chord sequences out as WAV. I find it very useful for coming up with ideas and for general mucking about.

Cash by Johnny Cash. Pulls no punches, especially about his pill popping years. And yes, it was High Fidelity that turned me onto the book

I'd say put them forward to at least 80% of their travel. They nearly always have to go back to compensate for intonation. Use the highest/thinnest string as your reference point - almost guaranteed to be the furthest forward saddle. In fact, I'd go so far to say if the G saddle isn't the furthest forward then there's something weird going on. One time I didn't put them forward enough and I only just made it for intonating the E string - really had to squash that spring!

[quote name='ryuu' timestamp='1363881739' post='2018870'] Ok, my beauty is here and its stunning!!!!!!It's made in Taiwan.But it's very, very dirty...its as if she never been cleand since the 80's...even the strings are rusty..Anyway, i have a question for the BB owners here...The serial number is nothing i've seen anywhere on internet.It's 7 digit, no letters.It begins with 00 and i tought it may be OO, but it's not.Any idea? edit: just saw a post from a guy in 2009 asking the same question about his BB5000A with serial 0030017, but no answers there... [/quote] It is "OO" two letters and five digits - http://mycoolguitars.com/useful-info/yamaha-guitar-serial-numbers-dating-your-guitar/ The first "O" means 1968, 1978, 1988 or 1998 (probably '88 for your one), and the second "O" means August.