neepheid

[quote name='Count Bassie' post='1176814' date='Mar 26 2011, 02:21 AM']That looks pretty reasonable to me. As long as the truss rod isn't an issue, or you can get your cut around it. That's the adjusting end, right?[/quote] Nah, I have lucked out and obtained one which adjusts at the heel, so this procedure will hopefully not cause any problems in that regard.

I have the neck now and I'm scheming about how to move forwards. This is the plan: 1) cut out the fillet from the end of the fingerboard to the face of the headstock: 2) glue in a piece of maple: 3) trim to match the shape of the headless hardware and fit. Does that seem reasonable?

[quote name='voxpop' post='1174176' date='Mar 24 2011, 07:15 AM']It might be the real deal but the seller won't take paypal. If anything goes wrong you will have no protection. We all moan about eBay, and that includes me, but paypal can be a good thing when buying goods that might be fake.[/quote] If they are selling it on eBay then they are obliged to accept paypal. eBay's playground - eBay's rules.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1174555' date='Mar 24 2011, 01:13 PM']The concept of a backup bass is good and if it works for you then fine but [b]the implication that you are not doing all you can by not taking a backup is IMO not so good.[/b][/quote] I find it rather arrogant, quite "holier-than-thou" if I'm being brutally honest. Yes, I have been sitting on my hands, but they worked free - sorry.

I have never felt the need to take a backup bass. I look after my gear and take spare strings and batteries. I play pretty small gigs - if I waltzed in with two basses I think everyone would think I was an arrogant show off.

Ian sent me a bass project recently, well packaged, good comms, no problems here

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1172980' date='Mar 23 2011, 09:43 AM']I'm not looking to start a fight, but this scheme is just another way of getting into debt, isn't it? Nine months interest-free credit is fine, so long as you can keep up with the repayments. There's no shortage of car dealers who'll offer you similar terms if it means that you buy a car you can't afford. If you can afford nine months of instalment payments, then you can afford to save up for nine months and never need to take on the debt in the first place. Am I missing something?[/quote] There is nothing wrong with going into a credit agreement with your eyes open, knowing how much it will cost a month and sticking to it.

As far as I'm aware, there is no long scale Longhorn. Long scale options for Danelectro are the DC, the Hodad and the '63.

[quote name='Jondeeman' post='1170472' date='Mar 21 2011, 11:07 AM']I'd seen the GB-10, but there don't seem to be many reviews around. It's only around 20 quid more than a MP-BT1... and now I'm not sure if it's worth the difference - dilemmas!!!!!![/quote] If I had the choice at the time knowing what I know now then the new one is worth the extra simply for the ability to use a footswitch to start/stop playback. It's a bit of a scramble to get back in position after pressing play with your finger

[quote name='gary mac' post='1169635' date='Mar 20 2011, 04:17 PM']I was starting to think that maybe I wouldn't bother, but seeing your P bass Neepheid has made me all determined again. You're right it does look better, the little ones to me just look and feel all wrong. So what method did you use to enlarge the holes and get everything lined up?[/quote] I used a drill press with the appropriately sized drill bit.

I've done it twice - it looks better and feels sturdier: Squier Affinity P Squier Bronco The E tuner on the Bronco was a bit tricky and has resulted in a bit of an angle between the nut and the tuner, but I couldn't have gone much higher with it. Lots of room on the P.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1167152' date='Mar 18 2011, 02:05 PM']I can't find any pics, so I drew an awesome diagram! (apologies, I'm no artist at the best of time and this was a 2 minute sketch in paint). If you're looking at the lower horn from the back, the centre line is the countour. To the left of it, you thin the horn, it means your hand doesn't hit a solid block of wood and some of your fingers can go behind the body instead of wedging next to it. How thin you'd need to make it would depend on the body thickness. From the front it doesn't look any different as all the carving's done at the back.[/quote] I think I see what you mean now. I'll keep that in mind. Until the neck arrives and is fitted I won't be entirely sure what I should do.

[quote name='Macklaud' post='1167118' date='Mar 18 2011, 01:54 PM']I just whant to know what do you guys think that are the most important things to inspect whem we are buying a second handed bass?[/quote] The neck. Everything else can be reasonably easily fixed. Any neck issues - walk away.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='1167080' date='Mar 18 2011, 01:39 PM']I had a Korean Epi Tbird and the neck was good, although I prefer precision necks to jazz anyway, so not everyone will agree. So you have a jazz body with a funky chunky neck. Probably lose the neck dive because of the jazz body shape. Sort of like a poor man's Gibson Victory?[/quote] A destitute pauper's Gibson Victory, perhaps

I played recorder for a laugh at primary school. I laughed until I was the last boy in recorder group. I got a guitar for a laugh about 15 years ago. I laughed for about a week. Then I got a bass for a laugh 8 years ago. I took about 5 years to get the joke but I'm still laughing

Although I've got no burning desire to own one, 1975 would really have to be a Gibson Ripper:

Well, we're probably several years behind the rest of the country, but that's nothing new. Shops do what they do and stock what they stock because it's financially viable. Judging by the (display) stock levels in the two guitary music shops here where electric guitars outnumber electric basses by anything between 8 and 10 to 1 I'd say that the bass coolness factor just isn't there yet in Aberdeen. It does put me on a bit of a downer to be honest, but at least it stops me just walking in and buying stuff. FWIW bass has always been cool as far as I'm concerned. The only instruments I have spent any time gaining some level of competence with are the recorder (at primary school) and the bass.

Welcome to the forum

Easy things first - the Grabber slider: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260750391208"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260750391208[/url] The original Grabber pickup mounts with four screws and is a humbucker. Also used in the 80s on the Gibson Q-80, and the Explorer bass. Some useful info here: [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/grabber_techinfo.php"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/grabber_techinfo.php[/url] and here: [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/parts/pickup/#18"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/parts/pickup/#18[/url]

+1 for the MP-BT1, had mine for a few years and find it very useful and sturdy.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1164137' date='Mar 16 2011, 10:00 AM']Better not let Neepheid hear you say that. [/quote] Meh, each to their own. On the strength of their current bass output, I'd be inclined to agree. In fact I'd go so far as to say that I find their current output a load of uninspiring, insipid tosh made up of diluted past glories and strange, bastardised reissues which capture little of the flavour or spirit of the models they are meant to be descended from. I also curse them for the creation (and continued use) of the abomination which is the three point bridge. Having said that - if you're having a pop at Gibson's most fertile and creative period in the bass world (70s and 80s) then [url="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=square%20go"]square go[/url]

Oh Gibson, what are you doing these days? I don't think I've liked anything you've done since the late 80s.

Also have a care as to where the truss rod adjusts on the neck you wish to use. If it has heel truss rod access, get a pickguard with the notch cut out at the heel, if it's head access then get one with a plain heel otherwise you have a pointless notch in your pickguard. Up to you, but it would irritate me

[quote name='shemeckfrac' post='1162799' date='Mar 15 2011, 09:58 AM']This option explores pickups capability. Anyone can tell me if parallel/series switching is worth doing? Never played around with parallel/series configurations so don't know if that option adds any practical value.[/quote] The Bass Whisperer outlines it all with a G&L Tribute L-2000: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT4AP58jC5o"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT4AP58jC5o[/url]

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1161844' date='Mar 14 2011, 03:00 PM']Have you thought about carving the back of the lower horn to make it thinner? Also the back of the neck pocket so there's not a huge chunk of wood there. I can't remember where I saw it a while ago, I thik it was on a 36 fret bass (and a tasteful one, not a wishbass ), it looked like it improved the upper fret access a lot without compromising (or even changing) the looks from the front.[/quote] Interesting, but I can't quite visualise how that's going to help. Can you find any pics of what you mean? Had a bit of a setback last night - my Mouse sander went pop. Bah!