The Burpster

I voted Katana because its the least fallic top bout. Doesnt mean I dont like the others or think they arent very well made, I just dont like the shape in general... sorry

Neeph, Screw in Tuner bodies are WAY better. My advice is sit them in the holes in your head stock- Lightly tighten them and then mark the locating screw holes on the flip side. Take e'm off clean the wood. Puthe them assembled back in the holes do up the screws on teh back and then finally tighten teh nuts on the string side of the body shank. Push-in anythings depend upon the hole being slighty undersize (interference fit) if it isnt it wont work hence your earlier Schaller experience. With a screw shank, you always have the option of using a (sligthly) larger washer and exerting sligthly more pressure to keep it all in line. Very secure set up. PS Many Happy returns!

The 414 has the same head layout as the Fender P I believe? I had a similar problem on my Ibanez, and solved it by adding a nother string tree on the head so that the break angle over the nut is the same for all 4 strings...... I was convinced that my truss rod was sympathetically harmonizing at open A (either that or the string was rattling in a slightly oversize nut slot) What ever it was having al 3 strings at the same break angle has cured it!

I say.... Thats a bit Heath Robinson isnt it? Would've thought they'd got that bit right!

Hey you fellas, it sounds like a trait going on here..... I suggest you ring the man on his cell fone and tell him..... Tell him its not acceptible.. (FYI my Mesa fan is hardly audible, infact my Fender hums louder than the fan even at 'practice in living room' levels ). PS--- Brothel A/C? I wont even ask how you know.....

Schecters are excellent bits of kit..... FYI- Mark Knopfler (the Dire Straits fella) was so disheartened with Fenders being very average in the 80s-90s that he had Schecter build him effectively Strat copies. Thats why all the vids of DS that see (Money for Nothing, Sultans swing etc) you see MK playing what looks like a Strat, but actually on close up you see no name on the head stock. Now you know why. So at one time in MKs opinion Schecter built Strats better then Fender...... Although recently I hear that he's made up with Fender and they are doing a MK sig model.

[color="#0000FF"]Could also be mechanical noise of the knackered bearing variety, in which case, a replacement fan is needed. [/color] Yep your right of course! I forgot that one, thanks....!

Very nice...... My guess then that its not one of us selling it?

If that was born when I was 4, I'm an alien amoeba!

Neily dood.... HNY 2U2- working NYE? I managed to wangle it off ! In answer to your above. Cabs are pretty simple things. (diemensions and ports can make a bit of difference) but the largest part of tone make up is the drivers. If you can find out what make and model they are you can normally check the makers webby to find a desc of the dynamics and maybe a sound clip.... (you can with Eminence and Celestion, My faves!).

Very Metal...... Nice one. I like Black!

Indeed a good idea. Duly Pinned.... Keep it sensible please folks......

I am using Roto 88s on my Ibanez copy P with a Schaller P pup. It produces a wonderful warm, and pretty strong tone. I know Schaller pups are more expensive that the TW ones but it it very good and has adjustable poles too....

Why thank you sir..... BTW, let me know if its any good..... I may consider getting me one of those bits of gear!

^^^^ Subtley tho' that was my point......! Most of 'em have been there and done it...... and decided to leave it to Fender!

My guess is probably not.... My Roland Cube 30 (but its only a 1x10) would just about do it when I tried (in a similar situation to you), and 30W IMO would be an absolute minimum for trying to drive a 2x10. Although if you've got your mind set on a 2x10, and I guess the After 8 (being a pressie) will not be on the 'upgrade' list my advice would be try it...... You probably wont know if it will do what you want until you try. Maybe a quick email to Ashdown?

I would argue that this is a pretty good copy....... [topic="0"]Ibanez Blazer[/topic] Around this time, (Late 80's-early 90's) there seemed to be a lot of P copies floating around. However now (as identified above) the trend seems to be towards J copies and I rightly understand why, J's can easily be made active...... You have a lot more options sonically, and therefore a more versatile instrument. We all like versatility dont we? so the market dictates what the producers do in fact produce...... IMHO of course

1, Ring him (Mr H) on his cell fone number in the US (check one of the comics for it) tell and he may do something about it....(like send you a replacemnet....?) 2. Actually changing it shouldnt be hard if you know what youre doing. Get a new one from RS spares in the correct dia... Before you go diving in with soldering iron and cutters, have you tried to work out why its noisey, (and do you mean electrically or ambient)? If its just noisey (ambient) it could be the blades are mucky or the housing/cover is bent. Anything closer to the blades than it should be will cause excess noise. You can give it a damn good clean with vacuum cleaner and paint brush. If its electrical noise, bin it!

Gravity- John Mayer (Pino at his best) Lenny - Stevie Ray Vaughn + Double trouble (Tommy Shannon at his...)

There you go my freind.... I obvioulsy have too much time on my hands....... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Guitar-Maintenance-System-Fretrest-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ350010243400QQihZ022QQcategoryZ7266QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Guitar-Maintenance-S...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

Rich, youve yet to say if this plugged in or accoustically? If its just when you are practising without being plugged in, I shouldnt let it wind you up to much. A little fret buzz or metallic fret clunk when you are playing unplugged is ok. If it continues when plugged in, I'd start by cahnging strings and then working through a set up guide, (or getting help if you dont feel confident) then if it still persists, its your playing technique. Do it logically and sequentially, or you may end up chasing your ar5e for ever and swapping basses like Beedster (no offence meant bud!) [size=1][color="#696969"]Actually he doesnt get thru that many, and its not for the same reason as you, hes' in search of ellusive mojo! [/color][/size]

You may want to consider one of these as they are pretty darn good.....! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MESA-BOOGIE-V-1-BOTTLE-ROCKET-PEDAL-AS-NEW_W0QQitemZ170181206344QQihZ007QQcategoryZ22669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MESA-BOOGIE-V-1-BOTT...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

Although many will advocate boiling strings, personally I think its a bad idea. If they are that bad, ditch them. Alcohol is much better solution for cleaning, so I would go down that route. Can I ask, do you clean them every time you use them? If not you might want to start doing that. Your fingers produce lots of substances that can dmage metal with continual contact and therfore cleaning them after every use maybe a better regime for future... I use a Fast Fret cleaner every time I use one of mine, if that helps. No crud and long lasting strings.

Big Up for Touchstone Tonewoods.... Dead reliable and interested in what you are doing.

Of those you've listed the 2 I'd go for are 1 The Roland Cube. 2 Hartke Kickback. Both very good. Go to a dealer that has the 0% finance offered by the Arts Council [topic="0"]Arts Council Promo[/topic], spend a little extra and get something that you can use!