The Burpster

Two major points for me..... 1. Neck thrus are very slinky and low profile and feel lovely, but have to be very wellmade to be completely stable... 2. Bolt-ons are a bit more 'clunky' as they need extra material to support the neck socket, however I like you, feel happier with this set up as it gives me more control over the destiny of the neck/body realtionship. all mine are bolt on and I guess I'm blinkered now!

It appears something has been lost in this thread and its developing into a 'one camp or the other ' thread..... [size=4]The original post was about the ATK being an MM beater.... [/size] It is an unquantifiable comment. It will never be worth the same as an MM, it will not be as desirable as an MM, it MAY produce a different sound and tone, and it will always be a cheaper bass making it better value for money..... Does that mean its an MM beater? no, I'm sorry it doesn't, it just means its different. I refer back to my post above. The 2 cannot be compared, ( I admit my BMW-Nissan analogy wasnt thebest, it was however s'posed to illustrate a point). i.e. Its not fair to, or even ethical to compare two basses from completely different genres...... and to say one 'beats' the other is how journalists describe something when they wish to empahsise their beliefs on others. Could we get back to debating the merits of the ATK as an instrument and indeed where they all are now please.... FYI- I DO own an Ibanez, I do not own an MM (despite trying several, I like how they play but do not like the looks or electrics.) Is the MM out of my budget league? no it isnt.

[quote name='simon1964' post='90333' date='Nov 18 2007, 04:24 PM']You have to convert to MP3 format. I've not had any problems, but I'm told you can downlaod free (or at least very cheap) software to do this.[/quote] You dont have to download anything.... There is a "convert to MP3" option in the drop down menues of iTunes.....!

[quote name='David Nimrod' post='90320' date='Nov 18 2007, 04:05 PM']New ATK300 - £318 New Sterling - £1100 That's why they cost more new *and* secondhand ;-)[/quote] Thats my point exactly, you get what you pay for. Is it fair to compare, a Nissan Micra with a BMW 330? sure they both have 4 seats but thats where the similarity ends. The Ibanez was and is a great bass, but its not a MM.

ATKs the 1st time 'round had fragile trussrods, which is a shame because they were crackin basses aparently....Check out the Ibanez collectors forums..... Not sure the new ones are as radical now as they once were, as everything else has caught up.... ESP make some that'd blow teh Ibanez away.... As for being MM beaters...... I think the values of MMs speak for themselves ......!

Fortunately sir you are completely wrong......! [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dan+erlewine&Go.x=19&Go.y=13&Go=Go"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_?u....y=13&Go=Go[/url] If you intend to do any work on your axes, (including a PROPER set up) this will be the best investment you will make..... I have both teh top two books. (the top one actually has bass specific stuff in too! )

Although it has a mind mumbing bass part I'd be inclined to throw "sweet home alabama" in there, and maybe "Freebird" and "All right now".as well... I have it on good authority (a colleague at work is a drummer in a curent "bike rally" band)that if the audience isnt "getting it" or doesnt know what your playing.... if you throw one of them in, it'll get 'em back on your side....

NOW you got me thinking...... I wonder if someone spilt milk in it..... I once had to return a udsed car I'd bought because someone had done just that in the past.... I smelt vile like Cat puke!

[quote name='andyonbass' post='89889' date='Nov 17 2007, 02:28 PM']Can you drag songs from your i-tunes library onto one of these? (apologies for a probable dumb question from a technophobe [/quote] as long as its not a download form itunes store. If it is ripped from CD then you have the option to convert to MP3 which you can them copy onto may compatible MP3 player.

Thats right^^^ it actually rips them in AAD but itunes will run a convert programme to MP3.... downloading form iTunes store will not allow to you convert to MP3 as they are protected.

Its a shame your not a bit closer you could have borrowed my fret file... Anyhoo sounds like your not a complete noob at this kinda thing (phew), make sure theres no loose ones in there.... They can really f**k up a good set up. FYI diamond files arent expensive now so get a couple, a fine and very fine grit. And good luck..... Dan's Book is like a bible to me ( I actually have both of them now) it well written and well worth the touble of getting it! Be careful tho' get too good and your guitarist will want you to do stuff to thiers too (like my mates do!) Yawn...... PS was thinking about your dilemma whilst out walking my pooch... try to avoid sticking tape on the fret board as the tape adhesive might be a PITA to get off.... best using a fret protector ( i cut a slot in the front of a piece of clear plastic that kids toys are bubbled to card on)..

Baaa aaaa aaaa gin......

How on earth am I going to get my guns in those piddley little cases? Handguns are niether use nor ornament [topic="0"]THIS[/topic] is what you want sir.... having fired several of them, the only hand gun I would use is a .44 mag Desert Eagle....

Holy Goat Pelt Batman......! Well it is from where lederhosen originate! need I say more? Its off to the ebay forum tho' someone might want to put a bid in!

Whilst picking my brain and working out what I could use for fret polishing that wont give my thumb cramp ( I usually use a Dremmel round rubber polishing wheel profiled for the fret wire) ...... I had a flash back to (very) younger day and model trains..... Bored with my local music shop, I popped to the local model railway shop.... and like the holy grail there it was.... PECO part no. PL41 track cleaner. Like a big 'old fashioned' pencil erasure but ligthly impregnated with polishing compound.... £2.50 and will last many many final fret finishes .... Enjoy...

What bass is it? I can find you some very simple connection diagrams on teh SD site.....

^ my apologies thought is was a std P with just one split Neck pup..... I'll stick with my above post then..... SD's all the way!.

[quote name='lwtait' post='89608' date='Nov 16 2007, 08:24 PM']ok, i'll add wizard to the poll. what do you mean by off the shelf, are wizard custom made? and how much do wizards cost? bartolinis are too expensive, i'm looking for something in the same general price range as the basslines and the dimarzios. £120 tops.[/quote] 1. Wizard - yes you can ring them and they will wind 'em to your spec 2. Where are you getting your Bart prices from? Thomann have ALL the Bart Ps for just over £100..... PS now you've told us what you play, I'd say you only have one option..... SD 1/4 pounder..... will give a gruff aggressive tone which is dead easy to overdrive for punk and Metal...

^If he's fretted the string at the 1st fret then it has nothing to do with the nut..... If it was open strings then it could be......! It sounds like fret 1 is worn hence buzzing on 2, fret 2 is just too high (or loose) or its a neck relief issue. really needs to do some work to find out the problem and corect it accordingly. FYI there is nothing wrong with flat fret tops, there is one profile called "school bus" which DELIBERATELY has a flat top, but here's the important bit and the need for the fret file, the corners need to be smooth and rounded so that there are no sharpe edges..... Sharpe edges on frets are very bad! Shoolbus frets are my fave are my as I use flatwounds and its less damaging on the strings so they last longer (flat area= less denting in underside of string), As for flat frets effecting intonation, if the flat is too wide it COULD have an effect on intonation but this is considerably less than not fretting the string with the same pressure every time you create the note. So IMO is negligable.

Gotta be black p/g..... just gotta! Pups.... Wizard(basically becuase you can choose what you want it to do) but off the shelf? Schaller or Bartolini.....

FYI- FUBAR and SNAFU were american forces slang (post WWII) standing for F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition and Sitiuation Normal All F***ed Up -----respectively OK originates from the US in the 1830's when it was used in the papers for Oll Korect (German editor of local paper? no one really knows) So once again the land of my Fore fathers (not 4 fathers thank goodness!) is soley responsible for spewing up the English langauge!

Check out the lovelies on here before you decide...... The Gallery should have most of 'em in stock soon.... [post="0"]Yummy![/post] These are superbly made and I will be ordering one in the new year FYI they are not far off the quality of PRS, yes they are that good! PS just seen you way oooop north, these are also dealers..... Sounds Great Music 182 Wilmslow Road · Heald Green SK8 3BG Cheshire

Should it not work as a passive even with a flat battery? I cant find enough info on it from Yamaha to answer this but your manual shoudl tell you this... If so, plug it into the passive input on your amp rather than the active input and turn both pup volumes up to max and then back them off as req'd.

Beg borrow or buy Dan Erlewines guitar repair book and read the 3 chapters on fret dressing..... If you have some manual dexterity you should be able to do it.... If you have some skill you should be able to a good job of it.. 1. What bare essential tools do I need? I'm going to buy an 8" level to uses as a sanding block. From what I read, sanding is a little easier than using a file. Please add comments here about this. One straight edge or the best qaulity 6" metal rule that you can afford (nearly straight is not good enough) 6-8" diamond file preferably varuious grades. Yes you do need a fret file to radius the frets when levelled but there are vearious diifernt porfiles you can shape them too! Dont use grit paper its not accurate enough. 2. Where can I find a cradle for the neck or is there an easy way to build one? I use a rifle support (my other hoby) but making one is easy out of 1/2 ply or MDF.... You need a U section cut out the top to rest teh neck in lined with felt or foam set about 18-24" apart. [url="http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/shooting/gun_vise.html"]http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/shooting/gun_vise.html[/url] Should give you the idea 3. Do I really need a fret file to crown the frets after leveling or can I use sand paper and steel wool for this. Again, comments please. As above YEs is the short answer 4. It's a rose wood fingerboard. Do I need to tape it off while doing the work or can I leave it as is being careful not to take any wood while sanding, and restore the wood afterwards with lemon oil or something similar? Yes if you want to save the finish, it is essential you tape it or alterantively use teh proper fret guide saver...(thin plastic with a slot fret width cut out of it) and Lemming oil is essentil when you have finshed. Ideally read well on teh subject before you undertake it! Prcatice on a cack neck if your unsure.

I'm not going to question your taste and you obvioulsy know what you want..... Just one question, will it not be quite neck heavy with such a short top bout on the body? Just thinking out loud, CERTAINLY not trying to put you off! B