rubis

why not try swapping the necks around on the two you have to see if it makes any difference having 2 band eq on your fretless

If you are happy enough with the 3 band eq, and I can't see what you'd gain with a 2 band ( but I know some people prefer them ) then why not just add a switch as you say for the pickup options? It might be less hassle to add a 3 way blade switch and also less likely to affect the resale value and sellability if you should come to part with it at a later date

Sorry I haven't updated this thread for a little while, I've had router problems so the computor has been out of use, back now! I meant to say earlier that I appologise if you've read all these things previously, I'd hate to insult anyones intelligence but I find myself that build threads which show even the most obvious steps are the ones I learn the most from. Anyway! The next job was to glue on the fretboard, nothing worth seeing there, just a bunch of clamps! Only thing worth a mention was that I left the neck and fingerboard too long so that I could use a couple of pins to position the board whilst glueing, I actually used a Kerplunk straw and made two holes at each end, two beyond the end of the fingerboard which you can just about see in this pic [attachment=100987:Picture 523.jpg] and two inside the nut slot area, these won't be visible later. Then the edge of the neck was trimmed down and the radius sanded on with a 10" radius sanding block [attachment=100968:Picture 517.jpg] I marked the fingerboard with chalk and just went to sand off the chalk as evenly as I could, any high spots were highlighted further and rubbed out. [attachment=100969:Picture 518.jpg] I used 60 grit stuck on the sanding block with double sided tape Then I stuck in the dot markers, gold MOP, and used superglue mixed with some of that wierd rusty sawdust, which looks even more odd when it's stuck to the ends of your fingers! [attachment=100972:Picture 519.jpg] Then I sanded the fingerboard and markers a bit more! I worked down from 60 grit to 1000 and I must say the board looks nice, should be better with some oil on it Those with eagle eyes may notice that the nuts in the picture are for a tapered headstock design, I ordered three graphite ones and these came by mistake. I didn't have time to send them back as one was needed quickly on my p-bass copy so I just sanded it down into shape.. .came out ok though. Next job was the frets....I must admit I have never done any fretwork other than polishing and mild leveling and I was not looking forward to it (still not, cuz I'm not finished yet!) I used another handydandy device borrowed from a bloke on the TDPRI site.. he builds some awesome telecasters so if it's good enough for him...... [attachment=100976:Picture 520.jpg] You basically put a nick in a piece of wood for the tang of the fret to run through and then drag the wire through the wood with a slight upward lift, the same way you curl ribbon up when you're wrapping a xmas present. It works best starting from the middle and I found that you get a smoother curve by starting with very little pressure and then increasing the pressure and then easing off at the end (like feathering your braking for all of us chauffeur-like drivers!) It worked surprisingly well I have to say [attachment=100983:Picture 521.jpg] The frets were then cut to length and I made a little nick in each end with a dremel which was a fart-on but I'm hoping it will give the edges of the fingerboard a tidier look, the idea being that you fill the little gaps with sawdust and glue and you can't see the fret ends. [attachment=100985:Picture 525.jpg] The fret slots had to be re-cut and radiused so I used carpet tape again to stick a spacer on the side of my saw which makes the cuts at the required depth, just like the hideously overpriced Stew MacDonald stuff, more Old MacDonald actually! I held the saw up against the sanding block to keep it square and carefully re-did them, worked a treat! [attachment=100986:Picture 526.jpg] I used a similar method to cut the fret slots and also the nut slot before the board had been radiused actually but I didn't take any pictures, only difference being I used a flat block of wood clamped to the board. So that's it so far, lots more to do, I'll be back

Just received a lovely Stingray 3 band preamp from EmmetC, see his thread on customising his 5 string [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=23"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=23[/url] A kind and decent bloke, I'd say any dealings with him will be reliable thanks again Emmett

There is a stippled kind of finish availabe in rattle cans, I used to have a Car Medic franchise and used it on car bumper repairs. You can paint over it too but it was a little trickier to apply than ordinary paint, its prone to clogging up the nozzle. # I imagine you could get from a good paint supplier

A little bit more progress to show, I haven't had as much time to devote to things this week, got some done today though, and some was done a few days ago. I did the fret slots with my B&Q handydandy fret slotting machine....does the job ok! [attachment=100212:Picture 508.jpg] I took a picture of the sawdust form this fretboard....weird stuff it, looks like rust when you brush it off of something with a wire brush...lovely colour IMHO! It's rosewood of some sort from Prime Timbers, I think Andy called it Monkey Rope or something like that because of the markings on it. [attachment=100213:Picture 512.jpg] I managed to lay out a 4+1 headstock......only just! [attachment=100210:Picture 511.jpg] and used the fretless neck I started on for my other project as a sort of template [attachment=100211:Picture 514.jpg] I also did the access hole to get at the truss rod adjuster nut.......I 'd like to pretend that this went without a hiccup but I'd be lying! I thought I was being clever by putting a ball of masking tape inside the metal tube which covers the adjuster thing...to keep the glue from the headstock veneer form fouling it up. However the masking tape proved stickier than Sticky the stick insect and I couldn't pick it all out through the hole that I' carefully filed through. I lost patience after a while and removed the truss rod which meant I could pick it out easily and then goo the truss rod back in with more silicon. Good job I hadn't glued the fingerboard on at that piont or I'd still be tweezering away at it now! Hope to get some more done this weekend.....I'll post some more if your interested!

If you check his other items and plow your way through the kids toys, he's also selling the neck, £19.99 so far. It looks ok from the pics

WOW......random

That is stunning, is that a lighter coloured veneer between the reedwood and the bodywood? Like the dot markers too, are they redwood? Are there two outputs or is it a trick of the light? More pics please!

It definitely works on bare wood, but I'm not sure about a lacqured neck, as Dood days the idea of lacquer is to keep the moisture out. The idea being that the steam (moisture) makes the dented wood expand and go back to it's original shape before it got compressed or squashed by the object which damaged it. The wood usually feels a bit rough to the touch afterwards and will need sanding down a bit. If youi try it, let us know if it works out ok through the lacquer

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aguilar-DB-750-Bass-Guitar-Preamp-Classic-Black-Wooden-Head-Case-/160727623140?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item256c1ce5e4"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aguilar-DB-750-Bass-Guitar-Preamp-Classic-Black-Wooden-Head-Case-/160727623140?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item256c1ce5e4[/url] ....the emporer's new amp?

PM sent

I'd be interested in the pre-amp if its the original Musicman one that you're talking about

would you buy from this nutter? [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buttery-Biscuit-Bass-custom-5-string-electric-bass-guitar-/250989377338?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a7021f73a"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buttery-Biscuit-Bass-custom-5-string-electric-bass-guitar-/250989377338?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a7021f73a[/url]

[quote]Posted Today, 05:35 PM If that's a 50 year old Les Paul, that's a rotten thing to do to it IMHO. S'orrible now. [/quote] ...I'd forgotten about that part, if it is then he needs be hit over the head with a sock full of sh*t

what do you think of this? [url="http://www.thisissomerset.co.uk/Somerset-musician-turns-vintage-electric-guitar/story-15166254-detail/story.html"]http://www.thisissomerset.co.uk/Somerset-musician-turns-vintage-electric-guitar/story-15166254-detail/story.html[/url] the workmanship speaks for itself, but why?

Love telecasters, I'm pottering about with 3 tele builds at athe moment, but I don't think the headstock would look right wtih 5 tuners on it. I'm coming round to the look of the Lakland shape, maybe a bit if this, it's close to a Musicman which I like [attachment=99468:55U-3939_headstock-front.jpg]

[quote] Posted Today, 08:14 PM you could copy the original g and l headstock? [/quote] ....not sure which one you mean, but this is the style which I'm not so keen on[attachment=99339:130_3093.jpg] ....and I'll probably go for something between a Musicman style or Yamaha style or this G&L style, which I think looks a bit more elegant [attachment=99340:L1000headstock.jpg]

Not much to update this weekend, it's been too wet and cold down here and as I'm doing this in the garage ( at least while the current Mrs Rubis is in residence ) I haven't achieved as much as I'd hoped for. I have routed for the carbon rods and epoxied them into place. I had to shorten the truss rod as it was a wee bit too long and then re-weld the end. I've put the truss rod in with some silicon sealant ( supposed to stop it rattling around ) and I made a sort of collar out of some thin metal tubing I had lying around which goes over the adjuster-nut-thing on the end of the truss rod. This is also epoxied into place and will be trimmed down to match the curved contour on the headstock before the veneer goes on. I've seen some basses with plastic tubing in the same fashion but I didn't have any so metal will do ( from an old clothes airer ! ) it will be out of sight anyway. Next is step the headstock veneer, because of its dimensions I'm not sure if it will allow a 4+1 layout or if it will have to be 3+2, not that fussed either way but i won't be copying the G&L profile, it's a bit too ornate for me. I've got some Rapid Oil which is a gunstock oil similar to Tru Oil but without the slight tint which Tru Oil has. Looking forward to trying this as I'e read great things about this kind of finish. I have a telecaster which I'm building with a converted Warmoth strat neck so I'm going to practice on that first. It's birdseye maple and the lady in the gunshop says the figure will really pop with this finish. More to come......

[u]Audition next week, how do I prepare?[/u] ......back sack and crack wax !

I assume it all went quickly, he never replied to my two PM's for the DHA pedal

Vandalism [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aria-Pro-2-BASS-guitar-customised-tremolo-arm-/110812481437?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19ccf0479d"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aria-Pro-2-BASS-guitar-customised-tremolo-arm-/110812481437?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19ccf0479d[/url]

......I used to work in Brighton......they've got a good college there ! I also used to have a Wal..... I worried about it even when it was in it's hard case