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rubis

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Everything posted by rubis

  1. I'm with Thodrik here Having owned a fretless Wal I'd say it could growl,in fact I managed to get a fairly good Ric sound, the very bass I'd part ex'd for the Wal A bit of tweaking and eq'ing goes a long way
  2. Enjoyong The Cure but the bass player needs to get a lighter bass, he's bent over like paper lip
  3. Cleanest amp?..............Geddy Lee's washing machines on a boil cycle would be my guess
  4. Could it be fitted into a pedal? Then you could use it on all of them, or anything else for that matter Harry
  5. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  6. I'd like the Yamaha bits please if they're not already taken
  7. Those girls have you wrapped around their fingers
  8. I'll be on to them, compliments on your wood sir
  9. If possible, could you wire one up, you clearly know your way around a soldering iron better than me. I can send you one with the payment if you like
  10. Very tidy looking work Tom Price is fine with me, still want a Sabre and a Stingray. Is it possible to have the Sabre output wired to one of these Neutrik plugs?, as this fits the G&L body it will be living in [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/6.35mm-stereo-long-reach-chassis-socket-223988"]http://www.maplin.co...s-socket-223988[/url] cheers Harry
  11. You lucky lucky man! Only my opinion of course, but I think you should stick with tort on the buttercream one and also swap the mute bridge to that one and then go for a parchment pickguard on the refin one. Lovely paint job, who did it? Has the buttercream one got an East preamp by the way, how do they compare? Harry
  12. Anyone got any advice or opinions on the chambering of bass bodies...ie does it really make any sonic difference or is it just a means of reducing weight? If it effects the sound, what effect does it have? What style of chambering works best.....full chambers, slots or holes? I have heard mention of balanced chambers...I understand the volumes of chambers are the same on each side but why? thanks in advance
  13. That is lovely Chris, good luck Harry
  14. Very interesting build, where did you get the Purpleheart from, I've not seen it for sale anywhere in the UK
  15. [quote name='steve-soar' timestamp='1342137032' post='1730405'] f*** em. And all the bullshit that has ever surrounded them. [/quote] I think, to some extent, there's bullshit surrounding any band that have employed a manager
  16. [url="http://news.yahoo.com/ronnie-wood-says-stay-tuned-rolling-stones-gigs-175409806.html"]http://news.yahoo.com/ronnie-wood-says-stay-tuned-rolling-stones-gigs-175409806.html[/url]
  17. I've got to the point now where it's time to apply the finish. I'm using this range of stuff made by Trade Secrets Stock Care [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture548.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture548.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] It's similar stuff to Tru Oil and I've used it on necks before and liked the feel of it, as this bass is mostly walnut and this stuff is made for gunstocks, which I'm told are mostly walnut I should think it would be the ideal finish. It's too wet to spray lacquer here anyway and showing no signs of drying up. The first step is to apply the grain sealer, which looks like chocolate milkshake. You apply two quick coats then leave it for an hour before sanding it off using 400 wet and dry lubricated with the Alkanet oil. This stuff is a pale sort of reddish colour and is described as a gain enhancer. This is the grain sealer going on [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture546.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture546.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] As walnut is such an open pored wood it took a few coats of grain sealer to get it looking smooth. This next step shows the Alkanet oil going on, it does pop the grain and deepen the colour somewhat. I did a couple of applications of this and stopped there because it was also deepening the colour of the veneer a bit [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture549.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture549.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Then the laborious task of applying the Rapid Oil. The claro walnut facings, despite being grain filled soaked the Rapid Oil up like nobody's business. I was intending to do a lot of coats on it in order to get a glossy finish, on the body and headstock at least, and it looks like I will need to! This is the cavity cover after 3 coats [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture550.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture550.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I have also drilled 'string through' holes in the bridge to give this option, but instead of using single string ferrules I made a brass ferrule block. This is an idea I saw on the TDPRI site and have done it on telecasters previously, I think its a neat solution as I find it easier to rout than to try to get individual ferrule holes to line up perfecly and also it allows experimentation with different materials......brass, steel or aluminium
  18. LawrenceH and RichardH, are you boys identical twins?
  19. By gunstock oil, do you mean Truoil or similar? As luck would have it I was in a gun shop yesterday getting some grain filler and Alkanet oil to use along with Rapid Oil (which I'm told is the same thing as Truoil)
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