rubis

[quote name='Soundcheck.effects' timestamp='1356639123' post='1911976'] Are you sure that is necessary to make new holes for the bridge???It difficult to make myself this work?? The paint is easy to me,because I am working in Toyota.we have high quality paints...but I can't decide the color.... [/quote] You would have to measure or place the new bridge against the old one to compare the hole centres. Some are a direct swap and some are not I'm sure Toyota will have a drill lying around somewhere!

Have a look at DHA pedals, I'm sure there will be something to suitable also there is an Eden pedal which is well regarded Good luck with your project Harry

The battery box would be a problem and would require some woodworking to be done to your bass If your are going to refinish, it would make sense to do this before painting The bridge would be good enough quality, Wilkinson is a good brand, but it may need new holes to be drilled and old holes to be filled. Again, best done before painting The colour is down to personal choice, unless you're doing this to re-sell it (some colours will sell better than others) but if you use car paint in an aerosol you could literally have any colour you like Read up as much as you can before starting, the Internet is a marvellous thing Measure three times before you make any alterations! Best of luck Harry

Excellent answer, lovely collection

You do know the world is meant to end tomorrow and you won't be able to take it with you!

Why not buy a 2eq which feels right to play and with the money saved, buy a John East 3eq module with the stacked bass/treble plus mid. Then you could swap them around at leisure, especially if you used non-soldered connections, and find the set up which suits your style, amp, gigging situation etc

Lovely job, just lovely. For my next project I was intending to do a PJ and was thinking of stack knobs, how do you get on with them?

I don't think its 250 at 8 ohms, but it's still plenty loud enough. I use mine with a single RS212 and it holds its own against a drummer and a guitarist through a Marshall combo, I have the master vol at about 1pm. I'm sure you are aware but the head only has a single Speakon outlet, so make sure your HB cab has one or get a suitable cable to fit And get one before the end of the year to claim a free chorus pedal, even more of a bargain!

Excellent project, I love the look of Tele's............I have three tele builds (including an ali-topped variax transplant!) in various states of completion but like you, bass playing (and building!) comes first I know you will be aware of this site, but I found this build which may be of help for you [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/159503-first-post-first-build.html"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/159503-first-post-first-build.html[/url] best of luck with this build, keep us posted Harry

Got my free pedal today, much sooner than expected Very impressed with TC Electronic and Absolute Music Excellent gear

If the lines are plastic, like the stuff used for binding on a neck or body, then you can melt it with acetone. People do this to fill gaps when binding a guitar. It may then be easier to get out than with a saw Acetone is also known as nail varnish remover What ever you decide, be cautious

Could you stain the lines?

A little more progress to show, although this build is taking a lot longer than I had hoped, it is now finally begining to take shape. There was a bit of a set back with the wenge top. I jointed it and glued it a couple of weeks ago when it was raining for 40 days and 40 nights and i left it a couple of days in the garage. I used Titebond, which is water based if I'm not mistaken. Now I'm assuming it was too damp in there because when I began to level the top to glue it to the veneer and body, the joint failed. This was a backhanded favour to be honest because it wasn't a perfect joint, so I re-did it in school and used some of the big clamps on offer...............much better job This is where I'm at now, the veneer and top glued on and the contours roughed out. I need to crack on with the neck next so that I can route out the neck pocket and then the pickup placement and bridge

PM'd

Would a paddle style headstock suit your needs, you could cut your own shape and make it right or left hand quite easily Might need to add side dots and flip the nut though

Well impressed with mine, using it with an RS212 and I haven't felt the need for an extension cab. Maybe I could get the RS212 rewired to 4 ohms? I think it's excellent value especially with the free chorus pedal worth about £100 and a built in tuner, I don't feel the need to fritter cash away on any other kit After years of humping Trace gear around I'm finally travelling light!

that looks lovely

[i]You might want to consider this BG500 combo, easily loud enough [/i] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/189242-two-amps-for-sale-trace-elliot-and-tc-electronic/"][i]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/189242-two-amps-for-sale-trace-elliot-and-tc-electronic/[/i][/url]

I'm about to get a TC Electronics BH250, very good value, sweetened by the offer of a free chorus pedal worth about £100 that TC Electronics have on till the end of the year. From what others have said who have already bought one it will meet your requirements Heres a link to the offer [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/holiday-rebate-bass.asp"]http://www.tcelectronic.com/holiday-rebate-bass.asp[/url]

Very impressive, I made a useful router sled-device thicknesser-thingy using some good quality drawer runners left over from our kitchen refit. They're screwed parallel onto a thick board, there's no slack or wobble on them and the router just fits on a sled and glides over the work piece. It works so well I've worn it out!

It works for me mate! Why boost the U.S. economy any more than we have to? There's a bloke on the TDPRI forum, I'm sure you may have come across, called Scatterlee, who builds amazing Telecasters and LP Juniors often using stuff he get's out of a skip. He makes his own jigs and contraptions and I often think he's having the last laugh at those others who have a 'shop' crammed full of machinery and CNC cutters and the like. His build threads are well worth a perusal even if it's just for the photos of gators in his back garden, but I guarantee you'll borrow at least one idea from him!

Thankyou kindly sir, how's that saucy little lacewood number coming along?

It's been a little time since I posted any progress on this build, so here goes. I have routed out the chambers on the body and lined the bottom chamber with copper shielding. It is now considerably lighter, although there is still a quite substantial topset to go on, there is also the contouring on the back and front so this should be a comfortable bass to wear ( I hope ! ) [attachment=122691:Picture 027.jpg] I went for a simpler layout than I had originally intended with the chambering, which means that the battery access will be more like the MM Stingray and not via a large grain-matched lid like I did on my Blingray build [attachment=122692:Picture 029.jpg] Because the neck blank was not wide quite enough, in order to get the headstock fitted on I had to add a piece on each side. I glued them on slightly lower than the level of the neck [attachment=122693:Picture 021.jpg] so that when it was sanded, it would be flat without thining down the neck at all. It didn't matter being stepped down on the front because that had to be thinned down anyway. [attachment=122694:Picture 023.jpg] The headstock was then profiled and the veneer glued, I use a piece of scrap which has the same curve as the headstock and clamp it into submission! I'm not looking forward to doing this bit with the top veneer of Wenge as I've a feeling that even after microwaving it, it will not be very flexible at all and may just split [attachment=122695:Picture 024.jpg] The truss rod was fitted, the headstock cut roughly to shape and the fretboard cut using my Old MacDonald fret cutting contraption........not as flash as a Stew MacDonald device but considerably cheaper [attachment=122696:Picture 020.jpg] Then the veneer was added along the rest of the neck and some little lugs left in place when I rough cut the neck out. These lugs will allow the fretboard to be dry fitted and lined up properly with screw holes prior to glueing as I find it a bit tense when the bugger is sliding around like a buttered pig, the glue is curing and I have more glue on my hands than on the job [attachment=122697:Picture 030.jpg] So that's about it at the moment, I didn't get the logo cut at school before half term, but I'm hoping to get it done next week. The command team (my children Ruby and Lewis.....hence Rubis) decided on the style they prefer, it's the lower of these two. I had to fart around ( edit ) with it for some time to make "bridges" that is to say on the 'R' and the 'b' letters you have to make sure that the centre pieces are not islands but are connected to the background if you know what I mean, otherwise when the laser cutter does it's thing, the middle of the letter will fall out and it may result in a messy cut as it does so. The lettering has to be in red ( I think! ) for a cut rather than black which is for engraving