icastle

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1366151823' post='2049123'] Yes, it occurs to me rather than filing the bridge and putting in grooves, I could take a little off the underneath to the same effect. [/quote] Yes, that's the way to do it. If you start making notches in the bridge it's going to snag the string. Just make sure you file the underside of the bridge evenly so it can sit flat on the piezo and make good contact over it's entire length.

Really depends what and where the gig is but I do expect clients to play straight and give me a proper 'share' as a fee. I'm pretty much a 'known value' round these parts, so even if I don't know the band, they know me. For me, rehearsals are rare though, so I need to keep my wits about me and watch\listen for cue clues. Funniest dep was at a festival a couple of years ago - the deal was done on the steps as I was coming off stage with the band who were just going on.

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1365852393' post='2045196'] All i can say is that Kiogon (John) changed the pots from my JV squier to his own and the difference in sound was truly astonishing. Much deeper and louder, completely changed the characteristics of that bass. [/quote] Changed them from what to what though? Changing the values of a pot would make a difference, changing like for like wouldn't.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1365871273' post='2045466'] <puts on tin foil pants/> [/quote] In your dreams...

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1365863466' post='2045338'] I thought today was my day for learning things. I looked at the speakon-speakon lead that I don't use and the metal release catch plugs were 4-poles. I looked at the speakon-speakon lead that I do use and the plastic collar release plugs were 2-pole. Then I looked at the speakon-jack lead that I occasionally use and the metal release catch plug is a 2-pole. Back to the drawing board then. [/quote] I should perhaps have been a little more specific. This rule only applies to genuine Neutrik speakons - there have been a number of unlicensed variations produced (not surprising as a 'genuine' one is £5+). The majority of 4 way speakon leads are only wired as two way, just to add to the confusion.

Ah well, at least you sorted it out.

[quote name='2pods' timestamp='1365857724' post='2045272'] Ah, thanks. I thought it was just me. [/quote] No. That doesn't mean we're not out to get you though...

[quote name='DorsetBlue' timestamp='1365788965' post='2044658'] I work on ships, sometimes you are over a large drop and ours include drop speed reducers to help (not me, I prefer to stay inside but I do have to venture on top of the bridge on rare occasions). The dockyard has a team dedicated to getting people down within (ideally) 10 mins I believe. Basically I don't want to test it. [/quote] I've not tried the mechanical fall arrestors but I did some work many years ago where we were issued with fall arrest lanyards - a length of webbing folded back and forth over itself with a plastic sheath over it so it would unravel as it was pulled and slow you down. I've always found it far easier not to fall in the first place.

The trick is to keep the cable runs as short as is practically possible. I always play safe with our PA. We have 5m and 10m Speakon cables and just select the one's most suitable. We also have some Speakon couplers so we can join cables together if we need to.

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1365774908' post='2044347'] Having soldered all kinds of electric guitar, bass, amplifier, audio equipment and other parts to keep gigs going for over thirty-five years, I must disagree. When soldering more than just a simple terminal or wire splice, the rosin core of the solder is insufficient to keep the metal clear. It's not crud; it's the immediate oxidation that occurs as the metal heats up with the oxygen in the air. Yes, on the back of a pot casing, a small bit of flux, as set forth in the post above, is necessary to assure a good, clean, compact solder joint that does not overheat the component. Can you solder the casing without the added flux? Yes, but why run the risk of a cold joint or stressed component? [/quote] Righto. Have it your own way, but I'm doing it the way I've always done it.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1365754849' post='2043826'] And why on earth has no-one yet mentioned Basschat's very own Jon Letts? [/quote] They have. See post #5

No. It's a software bug that we know about. I believe that it's been reported to the software company and that they're looking to fix it with a software update. No timescales as yet unfortunately.

The Vice Of The People - The Albion Band Back In Line - Steeleye Span The Book Of Secrets - Loreena KcKennitt No Mans Fool - Rachel McShane After The Morning - Cara Dillon KONCENtRAD - Beltaine

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1365747163' post='2043730'] FLUX!!! For the pot casings, you not only need to "rough up" the edge of the surface, but in order for the solder to flow, a little bit extra flux needs to be applied to the roughed up spot immediately so that it forms a film to keep oxygen out, to help the iron heat the surface, and to provide the vehicle to melt the solder to make a good, shiny joint, as it is supposed to do. Use (American spelling) rosin flux, NOT ACID FLUX (that's only for water pipes), and apply just a small, thin film with the proper flux brush to the area to be soldered. Something like this would be good: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/rosin-flux-dispensing-pen-33850"]http://www.maplin.co...nsing-pen-33850[/url] [/quote] Not necessary. In the UK, provided you aren't using plumbing solder, the most commonly available solder already has rosin in it. The trick is to understand that pot casings are either tarnished or have a lacquered finish and you need to remove that before you start. If you don't then you have a layer of crud (technical term ) between the pot surface and the solder pool and you'll never get a good solder flow.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1365717269' post='2043565'] Fine, I will! After I get Liam Neeson to hide all the guns he's got under his bed... [/quote]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1365705556' post='2043330'] Bah! When Chuck Norris goes to bed he checks under it for Liam Neeson! And Chuck Norris is a rightwing, bigoted fruitcake... [/quote] Don't tell us. Tell him.

[quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1365682279' post='2042765'] ah ha! i think it actually says 10u? its quite hard to make out [/quote] That's too high. It probably says 104 or 0.1u unless someone has done a radical piece of experimentation.

[quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1365626817' post='2042139'] hmmm.... this is going not too well! i can solder to the pot 'arms' ok but i just cannot get the solder to flow onto the pot casing. its like my soldering iron is too low (15w) , or the solder is crap (lead free), or both.... [/quote] A little bit late, but for future reference:- You can't solder directly to a pot casing, you need to 'rough up' the surface you intend to solder on with a little bit of sandpaper or the like before you start. Once you've done that, you hold the soldering iron flat against that prepared area and melt the solder onto it. That'll give you (hopefully) a neatly flown pool of solder. Tin the wire you want to connect, reheat the pool and push the wire into it. Hold it perfectly still and don't be tempted to blow it to cool it down artificially. A 15W iron is a little small for the job and LF solder isn't what I'd use from choice, but it's not impossible.

[quote name='Rayman' timestamp='1365629869' post='2042206'] I digress....during the chat with my tech he basically said that replacing the parts would be pretty pointless unless they were faulty. Replacing the pickups would be fine if I didn't like them, but why not try them for a bit first, then decide. Great advice, because I loved them regardless of the make or opinions of others. He then pointed out that cloth wiring looks lovely but is no different in performance to the plastic covered stuff already in there. same with the pots, if they work fine, leave them alone, don't waste your money. [/quote] You've got yourself a tech with common sense there, look after him and give him beer.

Not an easy diagnosis this one. The only thing I can think of that doesn't require the intervention of a service engineer is to check that the speaker cable hasn't become frayed. A short circuit there would cause a lot of havoc.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1365611840' post='2041819'] Sounds to me like it needs a new switch .full stop. If you want it to be reliable [/quote] +1 The chances of being able to get enough switch cleaner inside a sealed toggle switch to make a difference are minimal. The business card trick only works on the 'open' or 'skeleton' type switches that you find used as pickup selectors in guitars.

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1365526301' post='2040736'] Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF) [/quote] Ted said it was labelled 100K. 100K is 0.00001 MFD 103K is 0.01 MFD 104K is 0.1 MFD

[quote name='Mudpup' timestamp='1365405673' post='2038967'] That could be it then - its a 4 way cable with the metal slider. Thats the theory sorted, just need to get the danged thing out without destroying the power amp socket now [/quote] Yep. Just press the release catch in as far as you can, get a good grip on the plug and wiggle it clockwise and anticlockwise a few times. Takes a bit of doing but it'll come out eventually.