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Everything posted by obbm
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How many speakers? Just the one? If so then connect the red or + terminal on the speaker chassis to 1+ on the Speakon and the other speaker terminal to 1- on the Speakon.
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MarkBass F500/500W-2.1kg New in Box- NEW PRICE!
obbm replied to Wimpy's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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MarkBass F500/500W-2.1kg New in Box- NEW PRICE!
obbm replied to Wimpy's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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I believe that this '78 is Ash.
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MarkBass F500/500W-2.1kg New in Box- NEW PRICE!
obbm replied to Wimpy's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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[quote name='Linus27' post='372947' date='Jan 7 2009, 12:14 PM']Does anyone know what the difference is between a standard jack socket and the muting version thats available on Dave's website?[/quote] I don't offer muting jack sockets, only plugs. Have a look at [url="http://www.neutrik.com/Secure30/getMedia?encoding=ISO-8859-1&client=neutrik&saveAs=true&saveAsName=3%20Plugs+Jacks%20PG%20V7%202008.pdf&mediaPath=D:\DATA\CLIENT\neutrik\media\downloads\&mediaSavedName=Media_1475462113.pdf&contentType=application/pdf"]this.[/url]
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[b]Soundtech PL602 2-channel/stereo Power Amplifier.[/b] 2 x 300w into 4-ohms 2 x 195w into 8-ohms 1 x 600w into 8-ohms bridged 2U 19-inch rack-mounting Original packing, original manual Spent its life in a studio rack. Will include a pair of 1-metre Klotz speaker cables banana plug to jack or Speakon. £100 plus £20 postage.
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[quote name='Merton' post='371318' date='Jan 5 2009, 08:04 PM']You kept that quiet [/quote] I had an rethink on my half rack stack you saw when you came over. I thought about an F1 but it's too wide and three times the price. The LG1000 is under 1/2 rack wide so it fits the bill nicely and will drive each of my 1x12s. Physically it'll fit well with the dBX compressor and the wireless monitoring. What I need now is a half rack flight case. If I'd have known that this was coming I'd have never have sold the UL310 and bought the NV610, I'd just have bought another UL310.
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I received my LG1000 from Sounds Live last week but haven't had the chance to plug it in yet as it's too cold in the garage. I have a possible gig on Friday so I may well use it then.
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[quote name='warwickhunt' post='369802' date='Jan 4 2009, 11:42 AM']Not come across those before. Google wasn't massively helpful at establishing a point of sale for 1/4 jack connectors, where do you normally get them?[/quote] I tend to use Neutrik (because they are a well known brand) and get them from the Neutrik dealer from whom I used to buy miles of cable and thousands of connectors for building TV and radio studios and outside broadcast units. Amphenol have been supplying connectors to equipment manufacturers for donkey's years. They make a very compact and reasonable priced right-angle jack which I have been considering supplying. I bought some right-angle stereo plugs to evaluate and they seem very robust. You can get them from [url="http://uk.farnell.com/amphenol/acpm-rb/plug-6-35mm-jack-90deg-2pole/dp/1349048"]Farnell[/url]. Switchcraft are very good but more expensive than Neutrik.
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[quote name='warwickhunt' post='369791' date='Jan 4 2009, 11:23 AM']IMHO Switchcraft are as good as Neutrik and I'd be happy with either of those.[/quote] Also Amphenol are very good.
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[quote name='GreeneKing' post='344698' date='Dec 3 2008, 08:26 PM']I think that was a Duck Dunn originally with the Darkstar. I now have that very DS in my Warmoth and I think that Dave went back to a P pup (Wizard?)[/quote] Seem to have missed this comment. My DD came from the USA with a Dark Star in it. It was factory fitted as the routing was for the DS and there was no evidence of a P-pick-up being fitted. I subsequently bought a Lindy Fralin P/J set and had the Gallery route out for the J pick-up. It has a pair of stack-knob controls and is a delight to play. Sounds pretty good too.
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[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='366586' date='Dec 30 2008, 08:41 PM']Looks good. There's also this that's rack mountable with a similar power output but at a slightly lower cost - [url="http://www.chemical-records.co.uk/sc/servlet/Info?ref=gbase&Track=DIMENSION3"]http://www.chemical-records.co.uk/sc/servl...rack=DIMENSION3[/url][/quote] Interesting find but judging by the weight I would not think it is Class D digital.
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Whilst searching for info on Class D power amps I came across the Vestax VDA 1000. 2-channels, 500-watt each into 4-ohms, etc, or bridgeable at 100-watts into 8-ohms all for £249. Down side is that it's not rack.mountable. Details [url="http://www.vestax.com/v/products/active/vda1000.html"]at Vestax[/url] Available [url="http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR244814"]here[/url] I know you can get an Ashdown LG1000 for £40 more including a pre-amp whch I suppose makes the LG even better value.
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[quote name='bremen' post='359459' date='Dec 20 2008, 11:28 AM']Balanced cable is usually screened with foil or braid and has a twisted pair of inner cables. The idea is that any interference picked up on one wire is picked up equally on the other. The balanced input stage on the preamp rejects any noise that's common to both cores. Stereo cable ideally has a separate screen round each wire, so the two signals are kept separate. You can of course use a TRS jack for either.[/quote] Perfect explanation. If you use a balanced cable for stereo you will induce left/right crosstalk and the signal will be permanently and irrevocably impaired.
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[quote name='jake_tenfloors' post='358930' date='Dec 19 2008, 04:20 PM']off topic/ If you use a stereo jack cable with and EBS head and active bass you can take the battery out [/quote] Neat idea but do you mean a stereo cable or a balanced cable? They are different. Also it must be dependant on how the bass is wired. If the bass uses the ring of the jack to connect the negative of the battery to ground, removing the battery would leave no connection to the positive side of the pre-amp. Do you have to fit something in place of the battery? Better still have you got a circuit diagram?
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[quote name='crez5150' post='357810' date='Dec 18 2008, 12:32 PM']Ah I see..... your right in that respect but depending how it's connected. Normally +1 and ground are connected and +2 is your hot as it were. What I should have stated a bit clearer was generally two core is speaker cable and three core instrument/signal/balanced cable[/quote] Sorry to disagree but the majority of instrument cable is co-axial. Genuine instrument cable in has a lower capacitance than screened pair. Screened pair is more suited for balanced circuits such as mic and line level connections. Even then there are many different specs of screened pair.
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[quote name='crez5150' post='357797' date='Dec 18 2008, 12:24 PM']I don't understand your point?[/quote] Your description is of a jack to jack balanced audio cable, not an instrument cable. Most active instruments use the ring connection in the socket to ground the battery negative and activate the pre-amp. A ring/tip/sleeve jack won't do that. It has to be a mono jack.
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If you can, unscrew the cover of the jack plug, inspect end of the cable. If there are two separate insulated conductors (red, black, blue, blown) then it's a speaker cable. If the cable has a single centre conductor surrounded by a woven copper mesh then its an instrument cable.
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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='357543' date='Dec 18 2008, 08:47 AM']ok. Im just confused as to what the difference is other than the finish. The DD neck is the same as the DJ neck IIR. In fact if its the Skyline DD neck wont the headstock be red?[/quote] When I was thinking about turning my DD fretless I checked whether I could get a JO neck for it. The profiles of the JO and DD necks are the same. The DJ neck is different.
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Very nice combination. The DD neck is a great choice.