Ou7shined

Way to make one of the most boring drum tracks of all time interesting. Would make a nice avatar eh.

[quote name='bw_user_name' post='979839' date='Oct 6 2010, 08:06 PM']Have I had too many cans or has this 4 string got 5 strings ? [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product~name~Music-Man-Classic-Stingray-4,-Blue-MN~ID~13261.asp"]http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product~name~M...MN~ID~13261.asp[/url][/quote] Ha ha that is a bit of a mindf***. You can see the join at where the neck joins though.

Maple veneer makes great fret markers.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='979654' date='Oct 6 2010, 05:35 PM']...I also use volume and bass on full then just use the treble pot to find what appears to be the sweet spot for any room...[/quote] Snap. My treble lives at about 8.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101174"]This[/url] may fit - or may be made to fit.

The real term difference between a G&L trib and a USA G&L is very slight but if you were to not get on with the L2500 and subsequently wanted to move it on then you'd take a hit on this deal. I'd like to be all zen about it and say if you like the feel of it then go for it but then reality kicks in. Pity it wasn't your USA Jazz for a USA G&L.

Neck pocket it is then. [quote name='BOD2' post='977658' date='Oct 4 2010, 09:02 PM']....[b]Then the 4-string pickup isn't wide enough to cover the 5-strings either[/b]....[/quote] This is a misconception although to get even coverage of the strings you need to either have pups with more pole pieces or use a rails. You can get a Bart set (which I have in my parts box) that cover 5 strings in a 4 size, Hohner "The Jack" pups are the same - I imagine there will be others too. 5 string jazz pups are such a rip - just look at how much of them isn't used... Here's my (much neater) Bill Lawrence pups - the neck is a standard Allparts 5 string P width neck.

You'll have to alter the neck pocket to accommodate a comfortable neck but as far as pups go you can keep the original routs if you so wish. My 5 string has 9 pole Bill Lawrence pups in there which are the same dimensions as 4 string pups. BL pups are quite rare but you could use rails.

I've got 2. One made by me and the other by Jon Shuker.

Fantastic and balanced review. Thanks. What did you play them through?

Just quickly nicked off t'interweb, but the basics are there..... [b]How they work:[/b] The capacitor which is connected to the tone pots in your guitar (or between volume and tone in the case of active pickups) can have quite an impact on the sound produced by your guitar. The purpose of the capacitor is to decrease the treble frequencies as you roll down the treble knob on your guitar. In short a higher value capacitor will bleed off more treble as you turn down the tone, and a low value capacitor will not bleed off as much. The downside to bleeding off too much treble is that it can result in a muddy and bassy output, and the opposite can be true if you are using a capacitor value which is too small, leading to a very bright and trebley sound. In slightly more complex terms the tone pot and capacitor work together as a low pass filter, as the tone pot is turned down more of the treble frequencies are sent to ground, and the lower frequencies are sent to the output. [b]What should I use then?[/b] Generally manufacturers which fit there guitars with humbuckers will use lower valued capacitors as the pickups generally have a 'darker' sound, this is partly due to the pickup and also due to the many of the guitars which have humbuckers i.e. Gibson Les Paul. Therefore most passive humbuckers are wired up with 0.022uF capacitors. Whereas guitars using single coils such as many Fenders will use a larger capacitor value, such as 0.047uF. Single coils have a tendancy to be brighter sounding and produce a more twangy sound, therefore more of the treble is cut with the use of the tone knob. However this is not a rule! You can use pretty much whatever size capacitor within reason. For passive pickups any value between 0.01uF and 0.1uF would be acceptable. The best idea is to buy several different values and try them out in your guitar to find out which produces the sound that you prefer. The most common values are 0.022uF and 0.047uF for passive pickups and 0.1uF for active pickups. [b]Finding out the value of a capacitor:[/b] Capacitors use a code on the side which tells you the value of the capacitor and also its tolerance. It is written as a 3 digit code, the first 2 digits tell you the value of the capacitor, and the 3rd digit tells you the multiplier. The letter on the end signifies the tolerance of the capacitor (i.e how accurate its actual value is to the stated value). For example the picture below shows a capacitor in my SG which says 473K on the side. This gives the value in pF (picofarads) This means its 47 x 103 = 47000pF = 0.047uF. The K is the acceptable tolerance which for this capacitor is +/- 10%. [b]Multiplier and Tolerance Calculations:[/b] To calculate the value of your capacitor take the first 2 digits of the code and multiply it by 10 to the power of the 3rd digit (Essentially adding the (3rd digit) number of zero's onto the end of the first 2 digits). This gives you the value in Picofarads (pF), the capacitors used in guitars are generally given in microfarads. To convert from picofarads to microfarads just multiply the number by 10 to the power of -6 (10-6) 10-3 = mF (Millifarad) 10-6 = uF (Microfarad) 10-9 = nF (Nanofarad) 10-12 = pF (Picofarad)

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='975910' date='Oct 3 2010, 12:49 PM']Does anyone here have the Basslines [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/basslines/cutting-edge-1/stc3m3_stc3m4_f/"]STC-3M3[/url] onboard tone circuit fitted to any other type of bass than that of a Stingray? I was wondering if it would work with a jazz or precision bass instead?[/quote] I have a STC-2P 2-band (@ 18v) in the Pingray (Stingray pup with a Delano P pup). Awesome! There is a fair number of usable phat P tones from the soloed P pup and masses of bottom end... sometimes too much... so you have to make sure you roll back a tad. I'm not missing the mid control but perhaps that's because of the 'ray pup being brought in in the blend.

[quote name='JTUK' post='975860' date='Oct 3 2010, 11:52 AM']I have Barts with a Shack and that doesn't do it for me but I am pretty certain the pre is the 'spoiler' relatively there....[/quote] I had Barts in my Schack powered bass too. Dark is how I described Barts too.... heavy but not wallowy (with a hint of new cut grass and damp stocking warming in front of a peat fire ). There was tons of top end with the Schack/Barts but it seemed too sizzley and almost fake - there was something in the upper, upper mids missing. I've got genuine signed Bill Lawrences in there now in I'm chuffed at the even range they cover, allowing the pre to do the rest. It really seems important to match the pre with the pups. For me OBP-3 (18v) and Fralins are astounding together. There's a massive girth to the sound. I remember one gig playing with that combination (I still have the bass but don't gig it as I never got around to finishing it properly - it's on my to-do list once I get everyone else's basses out the way ) where everything was going right for a change and my awesome tone made me feel on top of the world and spurred me on to play a blinder.

Tune up a tone.

If all you are lacking is top end then my first thought (and cheapest) would be to try a different capacitor.

[quote name='funkyspuke' post='975674' date='Oct 3 2010, 07:43 AM']wow ... some really great points made in favour of both pulling me this way and that [/quote] Have you ever heard a bad word against Fralins though?

With the neck fitted, measure 34" from the nut and make a mark, this is approximately where the saddles will sit - bearing in mind when you make your mark that once intonated, if you've done it all correctly the G saddle will sit a tad further forward than the D, A then E. Take a fixed point say the 20th fret and measure an equal distance to your mark on either side of the neck (the E side and G side) to make sure that you fit the bridge in perpendicular to the strings. During this stage I find it useful to rig up some fake strings with thread - this will help when placing the bridge and pups too.

Mine's solid as a rock and in tune every time I pick it up.

Yeah tell me about it. Everytime I play the Kremlin after playing Anaheim the night before that's what happens to mine.

[quote name='Johnston' post='975251' date='Oct 2 2010, 06:12 PM']I do hope the present owner wasn't playing it at the time. Or was it that kind of club [/quote] My thoughts were along those lines too when I read the title. How did it sound when you heard it this time Jose?

I absolutely recommend Fralins if you are using an OBP-3. I'm not a fan of Barts so would choose Nordys if you put a gun to my head.