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Ghost_Bass

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Everything posted by Ghost_Bass

  1. £200 buys you a new (used) 375! Switch the jack (around £3) and take to somebody for a setup (around £20) and put the new strings (around £30). You'll get a great bass in the end. After a year your strings had lost their elasticity so doing a setup with them will be a mistake as you'll notice in the next time you need to put new strings. When you say you unplug your bass from the amp does this means you leave the jack plugged to the bass but unplugged from the amp? The jack in the bass socket also drains some battery. I'm not a tech to explain why though. Also make sure you're connecting your bass's power cord to an earthed socket, that could explain some shocks. As for the knob don't realy know if it's busted or not. try the contact cleaner spray like icastle sugested. Best of luck with it. I had one and it realy is a great bass for it's price range.
  2. Please erase, this should have been posted elsewere. Thank you
  3. Hi Does it have to be a rack comp? Can't you just simply get a pedal and keep it stored in the 1U space until you get the funds to purchase the one you realy want? £100 would get you a 2nd hand multicomp that'll serve you very well! Cheers
  4. Don't know enough about the two to answer you. Maybe someone else can add more info.
  5. Mine is: Vol: 9:00 Ton: 12:00 to 13:00 Sus: 15:00 to all the way up mode: dry I like that muse's fuzz with clean blend sound.
  6. Not the best gear around but a very simple, complete and practical solution for home headphone practice. I would say it's a safe bet.
  7. Genz Benz STL-9.0 or 6.0 (because you said you don't need much bottom) into a Bergantino 2*12"! Can't go any clearer than that, believe me!
  8. Dont mention the 3Leaf... i have a GR1 and am GASing for a GR2 since the news of it's release... now the Proton!!! I think i'll kill my internet conection...
  9. Olá Luis I agree with burno70, i would maintain this signal path but with the multicomp in the end. I'm using something similar to your setup: Bass -> Korg Pitchblack | MXR Octave | Fulltone Bass Drive | EHX BBM | 3Leaf GR | [i][color="#FF0000"]EHX Microsynth (to be)[/color][/i] | Multicomp -> Amp so i also have my drives before the synths but my octave is the first. I find this setup to be the best compromise when using more than one pedal at a time (ex. octave+fuzz, octave+wah, octave+fuzz+wah, od+wah). Abraço
  10. I have one and can't find any tracking issues down to a F# in the E string. Below that the traking glitches but only in long sustains, in quick notes it does a good job right down my low B! I admit it needs a bit of a warm input to trigger the effect though.
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  12. Ghost_Bass

    Octave pedal

    [quote name='P-T-P' post='1064595' date='Dec 20 2010, 01:32 PM']Have to say, IMHO the Digitech BSW is best for just s straight ahead simple octave doen sound. I found it tracks way better than the BOSS, EBS, Ashdown, Line6 ocateves I tried. I tend to have a quite high output from my basses, so perhaps that's part of the difference in tracking opinions - for me the OC-2 and OC-3 creack up about E on the A string. Currently using an Aguilar, though not employed enough yet to form a full opinion, however love it so far and again, tracks really well in my experience. To the OP, best answer is either get out and try some or buy second hand and that way if you don't like, you'll not lose out too much.[/quote] I had a BSW. Sold it after buying the MXR BOD for octave and 3Leaf for wah and never looked back. Had some crazy synthy sounds but it wasn't what i was looking for.
  13. If you bought it from here you'll be covered Good luck!
  14. I made a deal with this user to buy a Genz Benz STL-12T. I can only say he's a real gentleman and was a pleasure dealing with him. He always kept his word even when i had to ask him to delay the deal for a little while. The cab arrived safely today, exactly has described by him and as shown on the tons of pics he sended. I can't recommend him enough! Thanks Andrea
  15. [quote name='charic' post='1064501' date='Dec 20 2010, 12:21 PM']Brand new pair of headphones and also tried with some in-ears, I've tried it with the gain right down (or as far down as realistically possible) and tried it with the tubetone right down. Also tried the headphones with other things with no probs. If you meant the cable from the bass it's fine, the same one I always use.[/quote] This only leaves room for an amp fault. Is your amp under waranty? Take it to the store you bought it. If not you can open it up and see if any humidity had acumulated around the headphone jack out area. Could also be some resistor/capacitor/etc. problem or simply a bad solder... too many variables...
  16. I say everyone's first pedal should be a multi-fx. The zoom's are fairly good at a reasonable price. After playing with it for a while your gutarrist will have a good idea of what fx he uses more and what he would like in each of them and can start buying separate pedal for each fx. This is the advise i give to everybody adventuring in the fx world, there are so many out there it's easy to spend huge amounts until you find the right gear for the roght sound!
  17. Stupid question: Are you pushing too much on your amps gain? A cab could handle that signal without distorting but a headphone could fart sooner...
  18. [quote name='Musicman20' post='1064389' date='Dec 20 2010, 11:03 AM']Id like a 9.0, and I have no doubt about them being great, but at the moment Im going to give it a long wait until the next new line of amps. [/quote] Wise thinking. If i knew my amp would only arrive this month (it was a three month wait for the delivery!) i would definetly wait a little more for next NAMM. Don't forget to post your thinkings when you start your tests
  19. [quote name='Musicman20' post='1064310' date='Dec 20 2010, 09:50 AM']It sure is a looker. Apparently they retail for about $700-800, which means its actually in a very competitive position. For me, its between this, the Genz Streamliner, and whatever TC and Markbass come up with for my next new amp. Wont be until at least mid 2011 mind, when Ive had chance to read reviews etc.[/quote] Don't forget the GB 9.0. Incredible piece of gear. Yesterday i cranked it at my drummers garage (where we reharse). I putted it trough two HK full range PA tops (1x15" + 1.5" horn, i think, don't remember the model) with 450W@8ohm each and still i couldn't crank the amp all the way because the cabs started to fart . The look on my drummers face - a mix of fear and surprise - was priceless, the entire garage was trembling! I can assure anybody that the 9.0 doesn't have any low end problems, it was all there without the need to resort to EQ! This new Aggie line looks awesome. If they had come out two months ago i would have trouble choosing betwen a Aggie or a GB rig! I know a lot of peolple on my side of the pond who will jump on them when they get to the stores - just hope i can resist the GAS! Theres a pic somewhere in the TB thread wit a stack of the TH head with two 1x12 neo cabs... :drool: ...that is surely a lot of people's wet dream!
  20. This setup is fine. The amp puts out 300W@4ohm/180ishW@8ohm so you can have three situations: 1. Head + 210 - You'll be getting 180ishW 2. Head + 115 - You'll be getting 180ishW 3. Head + 210 + 115 - You'll be getting 300W (the amp divides equaly it's power betwen both cabs - 150W to each) In every case scenario the cabs will have more power handling than what they are recieving so no problem with damaging them. edit: just saw the LH500 post, it'll deliver 250W to each cab. I don't know the figures of each cab but they'll be in the limit if you run your amp flat out... but why on earth would you ever do that? If i was to choose i would get the LH500 and start with a single Harke Hydrive cab (112 in my case but you could go for either 115 or 210) and save up for a second cab in the future (another 112 for my taste).
  21. I'll be having the same situation because i'm going to drive my STL-9.0 (arrived this morning) - 900W@4ohm/500W@8ohm - trough a STL-12T - 300W@8ohm - and it'll be safe if i listen to the speaker for signs of farting. I'll probably add a second 1x12 in the future and still will be under the amps power rating - x2 1x12 = 600W@4ohm. I'm not a bit woried about it TimR made a good observation, you'll probably get less volume with both cabs than using the single 4x10 but i think you'll have a bit more headroom. IMO buy the 1000W amp - you never know when it's going to be usefull - and trade the 2x10 for a 4x10 or keep it for quieter gigs and get another 4x10 or 1x15 - 500W@8ohm - to add to your 4x10 for bigger venues.
  22. In my quest for the best pedalboard possible these are my results: Overdrive: Fulltone Bass Drive Mosfet Fuzz: EHX Bass Big Muff Wah: 3Leaf Audio Groove Regulator (maybe i'll be getting the GR2 next year)
  23. Ghost_Bass

    Octave pedal

    [quote name='TommyK' post='1060711' date='Dec 16 2010, 04:32 PM']I need an octave pedal for my new band. I have a budget of £100 ish. Like the look of the MXR 288 and the EBS one from the reviews i have seen. Anything much to chose between them? Anything else i should consider for that sort of budget? Cheers Tom[/quote] I've tried them both and brought the MXR home. Better tracking and better sound. Will cut in the mix nicely and the mid switch is great. I am not a big fan of boss pedals because of the lack of true bypass but the OC-2 seems to take the best reviews. Try the three and follow your ears.
  24. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1056567' date='Dec 12 2010, 09:12 PM']Basically, if you use fuzz pedals, tweeters do horrible shrieking, so I'd need to turn them off. Was hoping there'd be an attentuator knob somewhere, can probably rig one in.[/quote] You could even mount a jack on the back plate so you can bring a lead to the front and connect it to a footswitch so you can turn the tweeter on and off from your pedalboard acording to taste!
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