Ghost_Bass

When i got my SR5 i stopped using the EQ in my amp but now with my TRB-5PII even the mixer stays flat! All my EQ is done on the on-board pre-amp and i can get all the sounds i need (and more) with very little trouble. If you have a good instrument there's no need for EQ'ing. You only need a good tranparent pre (or a DI in this case) and power amp coupled with some nice cabs

[quote name='cheddatom' post='1025635' date='Nov 16 2010, 11:08 AM']the OC-2 is roaring ahead![/quote] Admit it! You fixed the poll! I still wouldn´t trade my MXR BOD for a OC-2 but that's only my taste...

What about a nice 12"er? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=102440"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=102440[/url] I'm GASing for that since i saw it on the sales topic but i think i'll keep my mind set on the STL-12T to cope with the 9'er Cheers

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1025587' date='Nov 16 2010, 10:14 AM']Sometimes though, the extra weight is worth it if you want that Trace sound![/quote] I know, until recently i was gigging with a 300W head/2x10"+H/1x15" rig! It could easily take out any military tank but retaining sound quality! At home, for practise, i have a Boxer15 and it always amazed me how close the tone of the boxer was to it's big brother. Absolutely thick but somehow defined tone! Now i'm moving to a STL 9.0/STL-12T rig... i know my ears will feel the difference in the first weeks but my back will definitely appreciate the improval Cheers

[quote name='Conan' post='1025482' date='Nov 16 2010, 08:04 AM']Sounds like agreement to me! That's the key isn't it. At the end of the day, it's the individual who pays the money that decides on what they want and why. There will always be others who say "you should have bought X or Y instead, and let me tell you why...". There is plenty of choice and if the purchaser like the choice they made and can live with it then surely that's enough. Just to clarify by further muddying the waters - I now possess two 2x15 cabinets. They sound (to me) [i]totally[/i] different. Both are regarded as good quality items. Both are large, but quite different in shape. The speakers they contain have a diameter of fifteen inches (I assume, I haven't measured them) but there the similarity ends. Anyone who suggests that fifteens (or tens, twelves or whatever) have a "sound", should try making such a direct comparison. It was pretty enlightening! Problem is that I can't afford to keep both, so I need to decide which one I prefer the sound of! Apples and pears...[/quote] Don't be a fool! Sell the TE (note i'm a traceaddict!) and keep the Vintage! You know your back deserves it!

Sadowsky pré/DI Aguilar Tonehammer These would be on top of my list, ahead of the Sansamp. Mind they're a bit pricey but worth every penny! Also you could try the EBS Valvedrive.

[quote name='goblin' post='1024720' date='Nov 15 2010, 03:10 PM']Yeah mine looks pretty much the same [/quote] In that case no lighting on the pannel i'm affraid. If you want it then buy a UV light with the power extension chord: Cheers

[quote name='goblin' post='1024553' date='Nov 15 2010, 12:57 PM']That requires pulling it apart though [/quote] If your's like the one i used to have i'll save you the disassembly trouble: [url="http://picasaweb.google.com/106572846091439162015/TraceElliot7210HGP7SM#slideshow/5509232681276912946"]http://picasaweb.google.com/10657284609143...232681276912946[/url] Note that mine was a combo but the head version is exactly the same mounted in a smaller frame. Cheers

I had a GP7-SM and the pannel does't light. It only glows if a UV light is on but that model doesn't have the UV light! No need to take it appart in search for one. Cheers

I have my GR set to: Sensitivity - 15.00 Attack - minimum Decay - 11.30 Intensity - i change it betwen 11.00 and 14.00 depending on me wanting more wah or more quack for the particular song Range - Low Feedback - Up Sweep - Up If you're in a OD/Filter mood why not try the EHX Bassballs? Not the best filter but it works nice with the OD! Also, to all GR owners, you have to try plugging your bass into a fuzz pedal (EHX Bass Big Muff Pi, in my case) and connect it to the return jack. Then mic your drummers kick drum and connect it to the GR's input jack. Awesome! This pedal is just amazing! I'm already saving up to get the GR2 by the end of the year Cheers

I have a Fulltone Bass Drive Mosfet i'm willing to part with. Give me a PM if you're interested. Bear in mind i'm in Portugal so P&P would be in order though. Appart from that this pedal is awesome. The boost switch is only controlled by the "boost" knob but it adds a very substancial amount of distortion to the sound along with some increase in volume. I'm only selling mine because i just use one setting without the boost switch for a nice warm drive so i'm ordering a DIY clone from a friend with only the part of the circuit i need and a smaller footprint. Cheers

I went into 5 string years ago and never looked back! It was my second bass... i changed from a 4-string passive Maison P-copy to a 5-string active Maison Bass Collection-copy (J/J). Only felt the change in my playing for the first two days and after that all sarted to feel natural again. The biggest difference i felt was when a moved from a RBX 375 to my Stingray5... i simply hated the SR for that first week and banged my head on the wall a few times regretting all that money i spent in a horrible playing bass with awfull sound but in the second week... magic! It sounded good! It had better feel! Awesome neck! Incredible slap tone! Wow! When i got my current TRB5PII i felt no difference whatsoever, maybe due to previously owning the RBX, i started giging with it imediatly without any disconfort! IMO 5'ers are more versatile (never seriously tried a 6'er or an ER bass) and the extra string is very usefull when youre playing in that far and uncharted region near the end of the fretboard! String spacing or scale lengt are factors with less weight than most like to think. It's all about adaptation and technique!... and hard work!

I have a Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet and in comp-cut my sound retains most of the clean bottom! I am going to swap it by a DIY clone of the same pedal without the boost channel (don't use it) and a smaller footprint though! For drive, i've tried a lot of OD pedals and no one gave me the sound i was looking for like this one - a simple drive to the clean sound without boosting it too much or over-distorting. Not even valve drives could get near what i've found in this little thing. If you crank the OD pot you get a very nice and balanced distortion with rich lows when using the pedal in comp-cut/mosfet modes

I think is better not to have more cables than you need fighting to wrap themselves around your legs... back pannel wiring is the way for me! When you plug your cables you're not playing and you don't need to have your amp all the way against the back wall! just pull it a bit to front, plug all your cables with the greatest of ease and push it back to it's place! If you're flightcasing then ask for a back door on the case when building with the necessary size and location to alow you to get to every socket without effort!

I'll only post the ones i'm currently using. If i posted all i had it would be a looong time consuming post... [b]3Leaf Audio Groove Regulator - 5[/b] Adrenalinn II - 1 Aguilar Agro - 1 Aguilar Octamizer - 1 Akai Unibass - 1 AMT Slap Bass -1 Ashdown Chorus - 1 Ashdown Drive Plus - 2 Asdown dual band compressor - 2 Ashdown sub octave plus - 1 Barge Concepts VFB-2 - 2 Behringer BDI21 - 2 Behringer chorus - 1 Boomstick Bottom Feeder - 1 Boss CE-2 - 3 Boss CEB3 - 1 Boss DD-20 - 3 Boss DS-1 - 1 Boss LS-2 - 7 Boss ME-50B - 1 Boss ME-8B - 1 Boss OC-2 - 9 Boss OC-3 - 1 Boss ODB-3 - 6 Boss PS-3 - 1 Boss PW-10 - 1 Boss SD-1 - 1 Boss SL-20 -2 Boss SYB 3 - 2 Boss TU2 - 11 Boss TU-12H - 1 Boss chorus ensemble CE-5 - 2 Bugbrand Bugcrusher - 1 Catalinbread SFT (clone) - 1 Catalinbread Teaser Stallion - 1 Chunk Systems Octavius Squeezer - 1 Danelectro French Toast - 2 Demeter opto comp - 1 Devi Ever Hyperion - 1 Devi Ever Cherry Pop - 1 Devi Ever SodaMeiser - 1 Digitech Bad Monkey - 1 Digitech Bass Synth Wah - 1 Digitech Whammy - 4 Dunlop Bass Cry Baby - 3 DHA VT2 - 3 EBS Octabass - 3 [b]EBS Multicomp - 4[/b] EBS Dynaverb - 1 EBS Unichorus - 1 EHX Memory Man with Hazarai - 1 EHX Bass Balls - 1 [b]EHX Bass Big Muff - 2[/b] EHX Bass Metaphors - 1 EHX Bass Micro Synth - 4 EHX Big Muff Pi (Black Russian) - 2 EHX HOG - 1 EHX Octave Multiplexer - 1 EHX POG2 - 1 EHX Small Clone - 1 EHX Small Stone Nano - 2 EHX Small Stone (Black Russian) - 1 EHX Qtron - 1 EHX Qtron+ - 3 Ernie Ball VP-Jr - 1 Fishman Platinum Pro EQ -1 FuzzHugger ABsynth - 1 [b]Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet - 1[/b] Guyatone MD-3 delay - 1 Guyatone PS-3 Phase Shifter - 1 HBE Psilocybe -1 Ibanez PD7 Phat-Hed Bass Overdrive - 2 Ibanez SB 7 - 1 Ibanez WD7 Weeping Demon - 1 Korg DT-10 - 1 [b]Korg Pitchblack - 4[/b] Line 6 M9 - 2 Line 6 Bass Pod XT Live - 1 Line 6 DL4 - 2 Line6 FM4 - 1 Maestro Brassmaster (clone) -1 MarkBass Super Synth - 1 Marshall Guv'nor (MK1) - 1 Marshall Jackhammer - 2 Marshall Echohead - 1 Marshall Regenerator - 1 Maxon CP9+ - 1 Mellowtone Clean Chan Dirty Chan - 1 Mojo Hand Cream Pie - 1 Moog MF-101 - 3 Moog MF-102 - 1 Moog MF-105b - 1 Moog MF-107 - 2 Moog MP-201 - 1 Mr Zinky Master Blaster - 1 [b]MXR Bass Octave Deluxe - 1[/b] MXR Blowtorch - 3 MXR M-80 DI+ - 5 MXR Super Comp - 1 ProCo Tubro Rat - 2 Radial Bassbone - 1 Radial bishot io - 1 Rocktron Cyborg Reverb - 1 Sansamp Bddi - 7 SansAmp Para-driver - 1 Seymour Duncan Tweak Fuzz - 1 SFX Micro Fuzz - 1 SFX S&M - 1 Subdecay Noise Box - 1 TC Electronics PolyTune - 2 TC Electronics Nova Modulator - 1 Tech 21 VT Bass - 2 Tech 21 VT Bass Deluxe - 3 Toadworks Mr Squishy - 1 Way huge swollen pickle - 1 Yamaha OD-10 - 1 Z.Vex Woolly Mammoth - 4 Z.Vex Mastotron - 1 Z.Vex Wah Probe - 1 edit: TU-2 is leading but i wouldn't trade my Pitchblack for it. It's nice to see some 3Leaf love around here

[quote name='AndyMartin' post='1014970' date='Nov 7 2010, 05:58 AM']Unless your amp is a valve amp it doesn't matter. The 2 ohms figure in the spec is just a minimum load. It doesn't mean it's designed to only work with a 2ohm load[/quote] I've tryied it this weekend at two gigs and it worked fine, no overheating and the amp held on for three hours of gig without ever clipping or going into protection This myth is busted!

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1011474' date='Nov 3 2010, 10:52 PM']This seems backwards - an 8 ohm cab will be fine even on a minimum 4 ohm power amp that's bridgeable. I'm not familiar with your Norton but it should do it no problem. It's a low impedance cab you need to be wary of.[/quote] I think i didn't explain right. My cab is 8ohm and the amp is running 4ohms per channel. I use it in one channel without concern becouse i know it's safe to do it. My doubt is: If i bridge the amp i supose it'll become 2ohm in the only active channel. My fear is to link a 8ohm cab to a 2ohm power amp output! I realy don't need the extra power but the headroom i get would be apreciated Sorry for the hijack! Edit: i've read your early ansewer again and now i think i'm seeing your point! I know that a 1ohm (ex.) cab would blow the amp up but doesn't high impedance cabs also cause the amp to heat due to bigger resistance to put out the energy the amp's generating?

[i]NORMALLY[/i] power amps are designed to have maximum eficiency (put out the maximum wattage figures) when: - run with a load of 4ohm per channel = total 2ohm load or - run bridged (just one active channel) with a load of 2ohm This doesn't mean they won't run at higher impedances, just will have less output. Like a bass combo with extension speaker ability. One of my band's power amps is feeding 2 8ohm cabs (1x15"+H) for the tops and we never felt lack of power when compared with the power we get from the other (same model) amp feeding 2 4ohm cabs (2x15"+H) on the bottom! I'm currently between rigs so i'm running my bass trough a power amp (Norton KP600 - 600W@2Ohm) and a TL606 DIY 8ohm cab using only one channel - amp's not bridged - and i have plenty of volume! Didn't try bridging the amp becouse i think putting a 8ohm load on a 2ohm output would be pushing my luck! If anybody with knowledge can say i'm safe to do it i'll be glad to try! Cheers

Just another thing, before buying a monster (my phonics weight almost 60lbs each and are stupidly sharing the same rack! a nightmare to lift!) take a look at the class-D power amps. I know Crown does one and there are other manufaturers doing them. It will be a good investment in everybodys back health in the future. Probably worth saving a bit more for a tad more time Cheers

Practically every power amp in the market does 2Ohm! If i was to recommend you one it had to be the Phonic 3000 - the best thing i've heard - My band has two Phonic 3100 (the same but with sub-woofer out added and they sound amazing trough two pairs of Warfedale Pro 2x15"+2"H and 1x15"+1 1/2"H... They are expensive new but you could be lucky on e-bay. I don't recommend a powered mixer couse it's going to be too darn heavy. Cheers

[quote name='dood' post='1005568' date='Oct 29 2010, 06:19 PM']The OP is refering to a Hartke head with hiss issues. - The Hartke unfortunately does not have a valve bypass, as the circuit uses the valve exclusively for amplification - as opposed to the Ashdown and Trace Elliot design of using the valve more as an 'effect' like drive.[/quote] OK, my bad! Don't know enough about hartke gear and i must admit i was too tired to search it before my post! Cheers

Let me see... Currently have: Trace Elliot 1215 GP12-X 300w combo - packed and ready for sale; Trace Elliot Boxer15 15W combo - for bedroom practise; Norton KP600 PA amp into home made EV TL606 with EVM15L mounted and a 2-tweter bright box - TL606 waiting for tolex cover so it can sit in reharsal studio; Waiting for delivery of a Shuttle 9.0 and trying to take the Midget T from Gafbass02's hands wile GASing for a Berg AE112 and a Promethean 110...; And very recently sold: Trace Elliot GP7 SM 300W combo; Behringer Ultrabass BX 1200 120W combo; Oh! And i'm using a Laney 300W floor monitor for reharsals cause it's lighter to move around until the Norton/TL606 rig isn't fully operational... Hope this helps for something... Cheers