Ghost_Bass

I changed my trace's original valve for a [i]EHX 12AX7 electron tube[/i] - comes in a black box - and my sound improved a lot! The valve pre (named as valve drive) in my amp comes after the SS pre and has a on/off switch. Does your ashdown have the same switch? Try and turn it off to see if that hiss desapears...

...everything atached to a Warwick logo...

Is your power chord connected to a socket with ground connection? 99.9% of the hiss and static cases are caused by this! Make shure you have ground anywhere you plug your amp!

Over here there are still lots of places where you can smoke! The mobile charger is a good idea, just don't forget to turn it off or you'll be getting that cool sound comming from the amp if anyone decides to call you during the gig

[quote name='tom5string' post='1002609' date='Oct 27 2010, 03:50 PM']This one (ancient German amp) has a built-in cigarette lighter ..... :-) [/quote] I want one!

Stop cutting corners buying Ampeg?!! Cheers

[quote name='SS73' post='1001382' date='Oct 26 2010, 05:07 PM']Or just given to the big names..[/quote] Keep one eye out for e-bay! There will be plenty popping up there soon

I realy like the look of the two ones sitting in the back!

[b][size=4][quote]Most useless feature on an amp, Add your own favorites and we could design the most useless amp[/quote][/size][/b] I'm still stuck on this... Do you realy want to design an amp everybody will hate??? Or did you confuse [u]useless[/u] with [u]usefull[/u]?

[quote name='markstuk' post='1000951' date='Oct 26 2010, 11:36 AM']I can bridge my APM-1000 (although only into 8 Ohms) But the whole point is that it is two completely seperate power amps (see pic) and meant for bi-amping (although having two power switches is a little unneccesary)[/quote] Not quite unecessary! If you're only using one power amp there's no need to waste energy just to keep the other one nice and warm!

I'll be using my own amp to ansewer the question: [attachment=62213:front.jpg] The signal path is aranged as shown in the front board from left to right. There is no need for the two inputs, the gain knob must be kept and the leds indicating the optimal gain level are a nice touch but a single one showing peak would sufice. Everything up to the valve drive (just a 12AX7 warmth actualy, no real overdrive) is pointless, the pre of my TRB is all i need for EQ. The valve pre/drive should stay but with an on/off switch. The compressor and noise reduction are out - very bad! - and the fx loop should be kept as it is, it has a switch on the back to select series/paralel fx and a blend knob to control the mix of fx with clean signal when in paralel mode. The back panel shows this better: [attachment=62211:back.jpg] The footswitch should be kept with valve on/off switch, fx on/off, fx series/parallel and mute switches. The signal out and DI are great as they are and the speaker outs should be speakon. That's it! In short, my dream amp should be: Input -> Gain Stage -> Valve Pre -> Fx Loop -> D.I. -> Power Amp/Master Volume -> Output edit: It must have a transparent sound and should be a class-D amp! Cheers edit 2: The valve should be in a acessible place so you can replace it easily for another without taking the hole thing appart! Probably just a smal lid with one or two screws on the chassis to reach it without taking the entire chassis pannel. I'll keep editing as i remenber more

[quote name='Musicman20' post='997344' date='Oct 22 2010, 05:49 PM']To be fair, I've heard of users maxing the 9.0 s master volume AND having the gain setup correctly. From what I've heard, Genz wattage ratings aren't what we are used to. 900W in their world is about 600W in Markbass terms.[/quote] It's the first time i'm hearing about that! But it seems fair, i always had a hard time believing they could put so much power in such a tiny thing... I'm coming from a TE and that 300W(ish) at 3,5/10 volume served me well in any kind of big gig. Looks like i won't notice a great increse in volume (in comparison) with the 9.0 but i'm prety shure i'll have a better and more defined tone. From your post i've started to give more atention to an old idea: get a Berg AE112 or HT112 to couple with the 9er! I always thought that would be the killer rig - light, with a awesome sound - but i was afraid the 300W of the cab wouldn't be enough to handle the headroom of the 9.0's 500W@8Ohm (and yes, i know i can play any amp with an underpowered cab as long i don't exeed it's limits but in open air gigs i was afraid the Berg would be complaining if i raised the volume just one bit more...) and i would be most likely to harm it in a bigger venue! What would you say the 9's maxed output, in terms of sound perception, is when compared to one of the old Traces? Do you tink the Berg would handle it fine in a open air gig (i play with PA, my amp is only my monitor) playing about 3 meters away from it? Another cab i'm curious about is the Promethean 1x10", it's the right size and weight but only 250W@8Ohm and may be lacking in the low-end due to it's size. Anybody tried one with a 9er or a 6er? How's the sound? Sorry for the off-topic, it's late and i'm too tired to compose a new topic just for this... Cheers edit: spelling.. but i'm pretty sure there are still alot of them out there hat i can't see!

[quote name='Musicman20' post='996734' date='Oct 22 2010, 09:45 AM']The 9.0 doesnt just add more bottom, as obviously it adds more headroom, which along with the hi-pass filter adjustment (think thats the right way round) gives you a much larger sound apparently. I await to see what Genz release this NAMM. I have seen the two new Uber cabinets, and the Uber Quad (1x12, 2x8, Tweet 600W) looks awesome. If the release an amp with two mid controls, or with better control over those filters, ill be getting one. There are rumours about a new amp due this year![/quote] They could release some nice cabs to cope with thw 9.0's power. The only one able to handle a maxed out 9.0 is the Uber 410! Some nice NeoX 212"'s with 600W@8Ohms would be highly apreciated!

My SR5's action is low, very low. It's almost impossible to play unplugged but when i connect it to an amp all that buzzing goes away and a realy great sound apears! No problems with slap. This is the SR's personality and unique feature! My TRB has a tiny bit more action because it's more sensible than the SR5 (due to the piezzo) but it's still very low. In that bass any buzzing will come out on the amp so this one is setup so it has a clean sound when played unplugged. It's my main bass and the one i use for home practise (like Clarky i play with the bass disconnected). I can't play a high action, i'm a light handed player and i find that having low actions gets your playing easier. It's just a question of finding the sweet spot for each bass. I don't know the height of my actions nor i guide myself for any when i'm setuping my basses, i just go for what feels right for it and for me. I take down the underpowered amp theory, i played only with a TE Boxer 15W for the first 5 years of my bass playing life and i'm realy very light-handed! I think it's plausible to admit that light-handed fingerstyle players go for a fairly low actions as diggers with/out pick need a very high action to achieve the best tone possible. In the end it's all a mather of taste and personal preference (like buying a new set of strings)

Thanks for the reply, technical info and advise. You've been very helpfull! I'll look in a local store first but if i can't find any at least i know i can send one from RS. Cheers Marco

Hi, just did what you sugested and here are my findings. I ask you just one last help to confirm my values and sugest the best option. [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']Check the voltage rating of the 2 large capacitors on the PCB. If you aim for a transformer voltage of around 2/3 to 3/4 of this value then you'll be in the right ballpark.[/quote] Each cap has 25V, so i'll be aiming for something betwen 16.6V and 18.75V. I don't realy know the voltages available in the market. Would a 16V be enough or should i look for something with 18V? [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']You'll need a transformer with a dual secondary coil, which will usually be listed as +/- ##Volts or 2x##Volts.[/quote] I know what those are, just one doubt - is there a specific order to connect the two red wires (shown in the picture in the 1st post) or they can be connected any way - i supose the black is ground and has to be left in the middle position! [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']Check the maximum power requirement on the back of the amp, and make sure the power rating of the transformer is the same as that or a bit more.[/quote] Done that! It's 250mA. [quote name='Alien' post='989538' date='Oct 15 2010, 06:42 PM']It's not a perfect solution, but if the transformer's blown and you can't get a schematic it's about the best you can do. HTH A[/quote] Your explanation is the best help i had in a couple of weeks of searching. Mailed Ibanez and they simply confirmed my "love" for that make not ansewering me! Great customer service!... If from what i've posted here if you can advise me a suitable transformer i'll be much apreciated. From what i've learned from you i'm looking for something like: +/-16V with 0.25A(min) or +/-18V with 0.25A(min) Do i have this right? Thanks

Thank you very much! I'll do that! Cheers

Hi I have this guitar amp with a blown transformer for a few years and now i would like to fix it to lend it to a starting guitarist. Can someone please tell me what voltage i should choose when buying a new one (230V in, how much out?)? There are three wires coming out of the transformer into the PCB. Some very nasty pics, if needed i can take close ups of any part with a better camera if you need but not until monday when i'll get it again: [attachment=61440:PICT0880.JPG] [attachment=61441:PICT0881.JPG] [attachment=61442:PICT0882.JPG] [attachment=61443:PICT0883.JPG] I cuted the brown and dark blue wires going into the back of the transformer to take it out and get it into a electronic store but they didn't know wich voltage it was to give me a replacement. It's a 24W amp. Thanks in advance!