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It creates a woolley mess of low frequencies. As far as I can figure they ostensibly represent the higher harmonics of the note an octave below the one you played.

That's what you call a traffic jam!

Sadly that Beyma went dome time ago. The 12CVM2 is a close alternative but not an exact replacement. I have a Faital Pro 12PR320 neo if it helps or @Phil Starrmight have a Beyma.

The One10 is a good call, difficult to beat for the requirements

Sorry I should have responded to this thread, I looked into over the ear headphones but was having issues finding ones that were sufficiently non bulky and with good attenuation, in the end after some research I ended up buying a set of Shure iems that are due to arrive tomorrow, fingers crossed these work for me 🤞

Thanks ! Out of curiosity what does that do? I’m new to this stuff.

Hi, sorry for the delay. These are the measurements. Nut to front edge of the neck pickup 65 cm, 25 5/8”. I’m not sure how the zero fret affects that, so perhaps the distance from the 12th fret is more useful: 12th fret to front edge of the neck pickup is 24 cm, 9 1/2”. I hope that helps. Good luck with the mods. We look forward to seeing the results on here. 👍

If I get time tonight, I'll see if I can't transcribe it for you when I get home

No, I'm afraid that might (marginally) help to keep you fit, but it isn't going to do anything to maintain muscle mass or bone density. The only way to do that is to regularly lift weights.

Well heck, this is taking a while to sort! I’m going to combine a couple of projects here. I need to make a sleeve for a Trace Elliot head, and I want another cab to pair with the Trace or the Peterson. The Peterson amp has a fault, so will need to get that sorted. Whilst it’s not operational, I might as well do the proper woodworking on the cab to optimize it. Order of business; 1. Design the 2nd cab so it matches the Peterson dimensions (at least just the width so it sits nicely). 2. Go get some ply cut up 3. Build the Trace amp sleeve 4. Build the new extension cab using the Beyma from the Peterson. Working amp & cab 5. Get the Peterson amp head fixed 6. Put the Peterson shell under the knife to optimise the tuning. 7. Acquire a 2nd Beyma (should have bought that 2nd one from you at the time @Chienmortbb!) Will put pen to paper this evening when I’m in the house, also try WinISD to see if I can work out tunings myself. Will then post my crayon drawings here for comedy value/feedback.

Well, I a not buying a bass as an investment, if I was I would be a poor businessman, considerably more profitable things to invest your money in. I am buying it to actually play it. And to me it would be worth much more, though not in money. Knowing I can earn money on something I don't enjoy playing is pretty worthless, even pointless for that matter.

Right - I've run it past Chordify a few times, I've re-read Terry M's and Burns-bass posts (thank you both), and I've tried to trust my non-musical cloth ears. This is what I've come up with so far. Three main things to check - 2nd bar in intro (Cm? Bbm?), Bridge chords, and last bar in chord sequence after the key change (G# or B?) Here goes - please be gentle - my music theory is very limited, as you'll see. Intro: |Cm |Bbm | F | G# G | Verses and chorus: | Cm |Cm |F | G# G | Bridge: |E | E |A |A |E |E |A |A |D |D |G |C# Thereafter: |C# |C# |F# |A G# |