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I'm happy to take expensive basses (or what I consider expensive) out to just about anywhere. I just happen to have some basses that I categorise as expensive and others that I don't.

Stink

Pish

Bach Is Dead — The Residents

Hi mate. Thanks for the reply. To make the first 1x15 I chose the driver and used Internet calculators to make the cab basing it off a mark bass 1x15. As it was compact etc... The Internet calculators are OK for basic stuff. For this one I tried again to do the same but although I got some bits out I cant help thinking they aren't as good for 2 x speaker cabs where the details of a 1xspeaker cab numbers go into them well. The 1x15 is proof of that pudding as I'm happy with it but can't help thinking my luck might run out in the 2x10 Is there any chance you can pop my numbers into your software? I can't install that as it's a work laptop. See if you thjnk 2x bn10 200x 8 ohm will suit or if i need to hunt a different spec speaker? I'd really appreciate it. If I have to take the punt. I will haha. A 70ltr volume should be OK. I'll just mess with the port ideas till it sounds right. But your input might save me a lot of faff. Thanks Phil

Yeah, my Sandberg that has medium relicing doesn’t have anything that looks like that on it.

Roll Over Beethoven - Beatles

Grandmaster Flush and the Furious Five

Beth Fart

I interpreted the question as what would be too expensive for me to buy. I think I would struggle to justify anything north of £3k because I would simply be too afraid to take it out of the house, and also the law of diminishing returns probably means paying large amounts for incremental differences once you get above this point.

That looks like it was damaged!

Edith Phaf

Harold Melvin and the Glue notes

Gland Funk Railroad

What software are you using to come up with the design? And what criteria to choose the drivers? For simple ported or sealed cabs I use WinISD 0.7. I consider not only frequency response but also sensitivity, maximum power (determined by Pe and Xmax, whichever is lower), and port velocity (no more than 20m/s at full power within the nominal passband). I choose drivers based on their cost effectiveness while producing the desired results. Also note that software is only effective within the region of pure pistonic function, which is roughly two octaves above Fs. Above that you must use the driver data sheet SPL chart. And that only gives you the raw numbers. Turning those into a cabinet design relies mainly on experience to know what works best. As for mixing drivers, it's like a box of chocolates: you never know what you're going to get. Sticking with one insures that you will know. I ignore when people say that 'this 115 and that 410 work a treat', because virtually any two speakers together will work better than either on their own. The only way to know if any given pair of mismatched cabs/drivers work better than two of each matched is to try all three combinations side by side. That's fine if you have two of each, but if you don't it's an experiment you can't undertake. Don't sweat tuning for the low B note. While the fundamental is 31 Hz the bulk of the content is in the 2nd and 3rd harmonics, 62 and 93 Hz. No one ever complained about an Ampeg Fridge handling low B, and its F3 is 58 Hz. I never tune bass cabs lower than 45 Hz. I only go lower than that for PA subs.

The Toasters

Bill Haley and his Vomets

Welcome Phil.

Craftwɇrk

Jimmy Johnson is a super player. I sure cannot play the stuff he does but it is very interesting to follow his playing through your transcription. Once again, thank you @Bilbo.

Don't forget that it is an ever so slightly different beast from your FSO's, if you play finger style, try playing it between the pickups rather than between the bridge and the pickup.

Over 40 years ago, I bought a Dual CS505 turntable, which I have used, off and on, over that time. Mrs Dinger rediscovered her record collection, and we played a few discs. Unfortunately, the needle in the cartridge (or the stylus?) is now misaligned - instead of facing downwards, it rotated by 45 degrees to the right, and the sound is distorted. Not sure how it happened (it worked when we started playing our vinyl), but it now clearly needs adjusting or replacing. Can anyone recommend a solution? The stylus reads "Ortofon", "DUAL" and "DN165E" , here: I have found a few possible replacements, each for £20: https://www.recordstylus.co.uk/shop/Record-Stylus-Needle-for-Dual-505-CS505-DN165E-DN166E-DN167-OM5-p610017647 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303287394628?_skw=505&itmmeta=01KCYT9ENV70KJKZ5E0X8J919Q&hash=item469d566144:g:ZaMAAOxyx-BSb~bt Oddly, https://www.dualfred.de/ sells everything for Dual turntables, apart from styli Before I invest, can Basschatters advise? Do I just need the stylus, or a cartridge, or a new turntable? Might I need new belts? Do the bearings need maintenance?

Yep