Knackered truss rod and fingerboard removal HELP PLEASE

[police squad]

I recently bought a blue Aria TSB550 fretless. It had a seized truss rod.

Now it appears the nut at the headstock nut isn't straight and after a few weeks of WD40 down there, still no movevment and we are thinking that it's cross threaded.

Even if we get the nut off, it would never go back on.

 

I'm thinking to remove the fingerboard, replace the rod and re-attached the board

 

any hints and tips are welcome and I would like to do the work myself

 

TIA the BC massive

[BigRedX]

Calling @Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

I'm flattered, but I'm probably not the best to advise on this one.  The Aria TSB550 is probably fitted with a single-action trussrod and the best way to refit another single action rod varies depending on the make...and I've done loads of stuff on Arias (and LOVE them!), but never a truss-rod replacement.  You can, of course, replace a single action trussrod with a modern dual action one - but Arias, in my view, are a bit too special for that.

 

I'm sure some folks better experienced than me will mosey along soon...   

Edited yesterday at 16:15 by Andyjr1515

[Grahambythesea]

I’m sure you have seen this and others, I think you would be brave to try but clearly it’s possible.

 

[Richard R]

4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

You can, of course, replace a single action trussrod with a modern dual action one - but Arias, in my view, are a bit too special for that

 

Why?  To my mind it's a sensible upgrade that wouldn't change the sound or value of the instrument but would make it more usable. I assume you might have to chisel a bit if the original slot is not flat-bottomed?

 

You have done lots of removal of fingerboard removals, Andy, and one of your threads has a really good step-by-step with photos which I would link to but I can't find it.  

 

 

[NickA]

I had a truss rod issue on a bass I'd had a lovely ebony board made for. 

 

Tried to remove said board as though it was on a double bass, using steam and gentle prizing, to get at truss rod only to find the "luthier" had glued it on with araldite. Broke the board, damaged the neck planing off the remains of the board, new neck required ....which has been pretty good for the last 35 years, so happy days!

 

And here's a scary thread about someone ( who knew nothing about Wals) repairing two Wal truss rods.  He did it tho!

 

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/scary-neck-repairs-two-wal-necks.1616350/#:~:text=He sent the neck to me%2C expecting,to replace the truss rod and fingerboard.

[MichaelDean]

Having removed a fretboard on my own build before (because the fret slots weren't right), it's very easy for something to go wrong. My fretboard came off in chunks and the neck split at one point. 

 

If it's a bass you value and you haven't tried this on something expendable first, get it done professionally. 

[Andyjr1515]

11 hours ago, Richard R said:

 

Why?  To my mind it's a sensible upgrade that wouldn't change the sound or value of the instrument but would make it more usable. I assume you might have to chisel a bit if the original slot is not flat-bottomed?

 

You have done lots of removal of fingerboard removals, Andy, and one of your threads has a really good step-by-step with photos which I would link to but I can't find it.  

 

 

I posted a few (including a scary Wal!).  I'll try to find a couple but will need to convert all the photos due to Imgur UK restrictions.  It may take some time!

[BigRedX]

6 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I posted a few (including a scary Wal!).  I'll try to find a couple but will need to convert all the photos due to Imgur UK restrictions.  It may take some time!

 

ImgBB is a decent replacement for Imgur.

[police squad]

14 hours ago, Grahambythesea said:

I’m sure you have seen this and others, I think you would be brave to try but clearly it’s possible.

 

Great video but it's a thru neck

[police squad]

2 hours ago, MichaelDean said:

Having removed a fretboard on my own build before (because the fret slots weren't right), it's very easy for something to go wrong. My fretboard came off in chunks and the neck split at one point. 

 

If it's a bass you value and you haven't tried this on something expendable first, get it done professionally. 

I don't think my guy wants to do it which is why I'm prepared to have a go myself. The bass is pretty worthless as it is

[Belka]

Once the fretboard is removed I'd assume it would be unsalvageable. The rest of the neck would be fine but I've never heard of any luthier/tech being able to reattach one. 

[Gizmo]

I've removed boards before via heat Steam/iron pretty much this method

 

 

Take your time and work on a small section, Do not force or try to pry the board away from unheated/glue melted sections, you have about 2mm of wood under each fret and the board will snap if you try and force it

 

You might need to reroute the rod channel if you can't find a direct fit replacement dropping a dual rod in it ok & you should be able to clean up the neck/board for re gluing with a little acetone/nail polish remover, use a blade edge to scrape it away (don't dig in) a wipe down with clean water (don't let acetone soak if it's a lam neck it might weaking the glue joints)

 

One thing you might want to try before your go for taking the board off is to get some heat directly on the rod's nut by applying the tip of a high watt soldering iron to it, that might be enough to break any corrosion/bonding  between the nut/rod (that is if it isn't cross threaded)

 

Good luck

 

[police squad]

1 minute ago, Gizmo said:

I've removed boards before via heat Steam/iron pretty much this method

 

 

Take your time and work on a small section, Do not force or try to pry the board away from unheated/glue melted sections, you have about 2mm of wood under each fret and the board will snap if you try and force it

 

You might need to reroute the rod channel if you can't find a direct fit replacement dropping a dual rod in it ok & you should be able to clean up the neck/board for re gluing with a little acetone/nail polish remover, use a blade edge to scrape it away (don't dig in) a wipe down with clean water (don't let acetone soak if it's a lam neck it might weaking the glue joints)

 

One thing you might want to try before your go for taking the board off is to get some heat directly on the rod's nut by applying the tip of a high watt soldering iron to it, that might be enough to break any corrosion/bonding  between the nut/rod (that is if it isn't cross threaded)

 

Good luck

 

how hot does the iron need to be?

also, it's fretless, will I burn the fingerboard wood? Can I put a cloth over the board to help

[Andyjr1515]

2 hours ago, Belka said:

Once the fretboard is removed I'd assume it would be unsalvageable. The rest of the neck would be fine but I've never heard of any luthier/tech being able to reattach one. 

It takes a bit of experience...but I've never lost/wrecked a fretboard yet.  The absolute must is NOT to rush and NOT to try to lever it off.

[police squad]

29 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

It takes a bit of experience...but I've never lost/wrecked a fretboard yet.  The absolute must is NOT to rush and NOT to try to lever it off.

@Andyjr1515 do you use an iron on the fingerboard, at what temperature too please?

[Andyjr1515]

Forgive the poor scaling of the shots - I've directly pasted some random JPGs

 

This was the thin fretted fretboard of one of @Owen's basses back in 2024.  See how close the bottoms of the fret slots are to the bottom of the fretboard...that's not a lot of wood!  The problem was a totally seized - and fully adjusted - trussrod

 

With due warnings to Owen that it might well snap, I got out my trusty travel iron and sat it on the heel end for around 10 minutes, testing every now and again with a Stanley Knife blade:

 

Once the glue was soft, I progressively moved the iron forward, sliding a steel sheet I use for bending acoustic guitar sides into and along the softened glue.  Any thin steel can be used, a decorator's platter, a thin scraper - main thing is to slide horizonally...NEVER lift!!

 

And you DON'T RUSH, and inch it along a few mm at a time:

 

And eventually, it's off...and still in one piece.  That is one well k*******d trussrod! :

[itu]

3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I got out my trusty travel iron and sat it on the heel end for around 10 minutes...

And eventually, it's off...and still in one piece.

So this whole process takes something like an hour? 

[Andyjr1515]

9 minutes ago, police squad said:

@Andyjr1515 do you use an iron on the fingerboard, at what temperature too please?

I use a travel iron on hottest.  Not sure what temperature that is compared with a standard iron but it feels pretty hot to me so probably a 'cotton' setting or similar

[Andyjr1515]

1 minute ago, itu said:

So this whole process takes something like an hour? 

Probably a bit quicker - as you are moving it forward a few mm at a time, the wood ahead gets 'preheated' as the iron gets close - but yes, probably 30mins to 45mins

[Gizmo]

3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Forgive the poor scaling of the shots - I've directly pasted some random JPGs

 

This was the thin fretted fretboard of one of @Owen's basses back in 2024.  See how close the bottoms of the fret slots are to the bottom of the fretboard...that's not a lot of wood!  The problem was a totally seized - and fully adjusted - trussrod

 

 

Wow that's not a fretboard that's a veneer ! Mad skill that you got that off in one piece! /bow

 

Set temp Med/High to start will and up it to max if you need to, as you start to get heat into the wood/tools it will become easier/faster to move onto the next section. (also i never need to add any steam myself)

 

[Andyjr1515]

2 minutes ago, Gizmo said:

(also i never need to add any steam myself)

I agree - never use steam.  Steam can be useful for getting a glued neck off, but I quite agree, never a fretboard. 

[Belka]

21 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Forgive the poor scaling of the shots - I've directly pasted some random JPGs

 

This was the thin fretted fretboard of one of @Owen's basses back in 2024.  See how close the bottoms of the fret slots are to the bottom of the fretboard...that's not a lot of wood!  The problem was a totally seized - and fully adjusted - trussrod

 

With due warnings to Owen that it might well snap, I got out my trusty travel iron and sat it on the heel end for around 10 minutes, testing every now and again with a Stanley Knife blade:

 

Once the glue was soft, I progressively moved the iron forward, sliding a steel sheet I use for bending acoustic guitar sides into and along the softened glue.  Any thin steel can be used, a decorator's platter, a thin scraper - main thing is to slide horizonally...NEVER lift!!

 

And you DON'T RUSH, and inch it along a few mm at a time:

 

And eventually, it's off...and still in one piece.  That is one well k*******d trussrod! :

Just out of interest, would this work on the 1962-1982 veneer rosewood boards seen on Fenders, or might that be too fiddly compared to a slab?

Edited 1 hour ago by Belka

[Andyjr1515]

2 minutes ago, Belka said:

Just out of interest, would this work on the 1962-1982 veneer rosewood boards seen on Fenders, or might that be too fiddly compared to a slab?

If you were trying to replace the fretboard (rosewood only) then presumably you could do it like this (though why would you...any major modding on an old Fender will potentially destroy its resale value, however well it's done) but remember that a Fender neck is a single-action truss rod, inserted into a curved carve from the back and then hidden by the 'skunk stripe'.  I don't mess with genuine Fender necks so I'm not the one to ask - even the frets are done differently - they are inserted from the side of the fretboard...

[BigRedX]

How easy was it to get the fingerboard back on properly aligned with the sides of the neck?