Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by NickA

  1. TC unitune as it's cheap and simple. Works well on the bridge of my double bass and finds bottom e and drop tunings to c easily. Also finds the bottom b of my five string electric when clipped to the headstock. Took ages for it to arrive though .. stock shortages.
  2. Maybe comes down to the fact that fenders are basically simple factory made instruments that are easy for anyone to make. So why buy a fender fender. Does make me wonder about Warwick Vs Rockbass. MusicMan Vs Sterling. G&L vs Tribute etc.
  3. Looks awful to me ( only own coffee tables 😉). But yes Squires Vs Fenders ... Played a random squire p in a practice studio once; much nicer feel and sound than the genuine fender jazz they also had. Truly the kind of value that puts real hand made bass makers out of business!
  4. Indeed. My full rig is 12 X 5". Brilliant with a double bass. Wouldnt recommend it for death metal though.
  5. Fender has most zing, but the stingray sounds more interesting. Surely even better slap basses out there though ( Warwick, Status, Modulus)
  6. You could sell it to the bloke who joined my orchestra last week. He had a small 3/4 laminate bass with a dodgy end pin. Last night he lent heavily on the bass and the spike and bottom block disappeared into the bottom of the bass, opening up a gaping split between the back and the ribs. Though he continued through Tchykovsky's 5th without too much trouble. This would be a real upgrade for him at potentially less than the cost of repairing the one he has. Meanwhile I directed him to "thedoublebassrooms" for a browse. But if you list it, I'll point it out to him.
  7. Not a lot! Carved front is good, and looks in decent nick; damaged painted fingerboard, not so much. A new undamaged stentor student is about £1000 and I'm guessing there's no advantage in buying an older one so regardless of work done, it won't be worth more than that. Provided there are no cracks,splits or strange buzzing or rattley noises and on the basis it needs a new bridge which will cost someone £200 or so to get fitted, maybe £400? The need for any major work eg taking the front off, would probably make it a write it off as the work would cost more than the value of the mended bass.
  8. You poor sod. Awful thing. My wife has it, but it comes and goes. At her worst she'd struggle to sit on a bass stool for 5 min, let alone lift a bow, so you're doing ok. 6 months time you may be right as reign ... then 6 months later knackered again. It's stinky poo basically. Anyway ... Would a German bow be easier? Bit less weight on your arm, but more push and pull and harder to push down on the strings. Did you try German hold on the French bow as a test? ( my bass was with Tim Batchelar for some mods last week, he was playing my bass with my French bow, but holding it German style). Also, did you ask Martin's if they'd do you a swap? I see they do the same bow in German. Buy a cheapy German one and keep the nice French one for when you're better maybe? Not much help I'm afraid, just being sympathetic.
  9. Mine had flats on once, for about two hours, took them right off again. Wals need rounds or you're losing some of that wonderful sound. EB Cobalts and thomastic jazz just about permissible - though the EB s are a bit too coloured ( mask the walness).
  10. Recall someone brought one to a double bass bash a few years back. Sounded good ( though I preferred the steinberger nxt personally). Weighed a ton. Did kk forget to hollow them out? Indestructible and feedback proof though (unlike a double bass!) Enjoy, though in a few years you'll doubtless want the expense and hassle of a "real" double bass 🙂
  11. Double basses are not like bass guitars. The make is not really important, it's all about how they feel and sound to you. The provenance of most basses is a mystery. Some of the world's best basses are from unknown makers. Usually you can tell the region it came from and the likely age. My own bass is certainly German, maybe from Markneukirchen maybe Dresden, around 1890 ish, maker unknown. One I nearly bought ( for £10,000 !!!) was "likely English but maybe hungarian, most likely 1900 to 1910". If you like it and can afford it, just buy it. But try lots to get a feel for what you want and how much that will cost. Fwiw that bass looks like a laminated one, so likely Eastern European, but maybe Chinese. we'd need more photos to say more!
  12. There is no one place. Be prepared to travel. But: tell us what country you live in, approx what your budget is and an idea of what you want to play on it... and we'll provide a list!
  13. Just got my bass back from Tim Batchelar. He re-used the bridge Malcolm Healy fitted for me some 25 years ago (it's very good quality apparently and just needed re-fitting a bit) and fitted it with aluminium adjusters. £230 all told including the re-fitting to the bass's belly and the fitting of my new set of Eva Ps in place of the spiros; he also replaced the rubber thingy on the end of the spike. Including the £200 for the Evahs and petrol to Leicester and back (twice) that's over £450 I've just spent !!!! Ahhh people spend less than that on a whole bass. It does sound good though .. much more mellow than with the Spiros on it, scratch free bowable from the outset (and the Evahs should play in over the next few days). It shows up all the mistakes with astounding clarity as the bass now speaks so quickly! Also it was nice to get it checked over by an expert ... who said it was just fine. NB: Evah Pirazzi Mediums... on the advice of David at Bass Bags. He reckons they bow better than EP Weichs and are better suited to the "larger" bass (mine's 40" scale) and as I'll put the spiros back on for classical free periods, they don't need to be A1 for Pizz... also he had them in stock!! Wonder if I could tell the difference.
  14. ... I'm very suprised said "chap" didn't pay up and walk away with it!
  15. Apparently ... I'm being taken to Cornwall for a weeks holiday, and we're going tomorrow. I thought we were gong next week! Holiday 🙂 cornwall 🙂 missing bass bash 😞 Shall miss seeing you all and your basses. But me and my Wals will be there next time. Enjoy
  16. Congrats and welcome 🙂 Double bass strings don't really go dead the way electric bass strings can. I was using the thomastic spirocores I bought with my bass, in 1988, up until quite recently ( admitted, I did buy a set of helicores in 2001 and used them for a decade or so ). So expensive, yes, but annual cost low. And my current set of spiros were 2nd hand from these pages and cost £70 ( I think). Keep your eyes out, people are always swapping and changing strings. The wrong strings will make the bass sound dead for pizz, and if anything will perk it up it's a set of spiros. Go weich for starters to save your fingers; though personally I like the heft of the full strength sort. Evah Pirazzi strings are good, but really only better than spiros if you're going to use a bow sometimes. My first bass (at school) was a half size boosey and hawkes .. it had no low end at all and didn't pizz well. Certainly an element of deadness there. Let's face it you're not going to sound like Charlie Haden or Eddie Gomez on an East European laminated school bass, but it'll be fine for learning the basics .. just don't expect too much of it. And with the pickup and amp you'll need to play in a band, the difference is far less. Have fun!
  17. Tim Toft. They're very good. You'll not go wrong there. I'm looking to get an adjustable on my own bass, Tim Bachelor also quoted £130 to modify my existing bridge .. so that seems to be THE PRICE. sadly I think my existing bridge is knackered.
  18. How much??!!! "Only" £200 here: https://www.thestringzone.co.uk/categories/evah-pirazzi-slap Cheaper than normal ep. You get th slap for free!
  19. It's the fitting the feet to the belly of the bass that's the hard part. You need to tape some sand paper to the bass then rub the bridge back and forth till the bridge feet have the same curve as the bass. Harder than it sounds. I think pros chisel off most of the foot then sand the last few mm. Worth paying to have a bridge supplied and fitted I think. Though most luthiers will find "other work" that needs to be done and you end up spending a load. Stand firm!
  20. How dreadful for you🙁. I nearly commissioned a bass off Ron in 1988. He quoted me "around £4000". Then another maker told me his basses were hard work and never "softened up" ... I presume that was rubbish as they cost a fortune now.
  21. I love those. The only non bare wood basses I really like. Andy Baxter has a 5er for sale but it doesn't have the black fingerboard...just not quite stealthy enough. If only I could justify another fretted 4 (rarely play the one I've got 🙁).
  22. Here's what I have. Helicore Hybrid Series, medium tension. Steel core. Not much "thump" to them, quite soft. A deal quieter than my "full strength" spiros and less hard work to finger. NB: just listening to Eddie Gomez .. a sound I like, & pretty much thump free. Spiros apparently.
  23. This for the dB or the new cello project? I have some dAddario Helicore Hybrid bass strings ... A guy I had lessons from says they are the worst of both worlds in that they don't pizz or bow well. I would say they bow easier than my full tension spiros and still work ok for pizz ( actually I don't think the band members can tell the difference, and the audience don't care ). Orchestra rehearsals start again next month and ( if a few clients pay invoices) I'll be upgrading to Evah Ps .. which bow AND pizz better. Upon which the helicores could go to a new home. Nothing does pizz like spiros imho, but then, I do like a "modern" long sustain sound with less thump and more mwah 😉
  24. ..was the issue with my analogue octaver; but a digital (polyphonic) one should just halve the frequency of the whole waveform.
  25. I was a cellist first and a bassist much later. It would be really weird to play a cello in 4ths for me. What fingering to use? If you do simandl (as I do n a dB) your fingers may not fit. If you do 1f1f ( as I do on an e bass) it should work ok with the option of getting a 4th by string crossing or fingering but if you're not a 1f1f player it's another hurdle to jump. Get a cheap cello bow, it will work better than a good bass bow. I've tried a pickup and octaver on a cello. It wasn't good. But that was an old analogue boss oc2 .. a modern digital one should drop the pitch ok, though the timbre still won't be that of a dB. Try a TC electronics sub and up, very clean sound. The cello repertoire is a lot easier to play in 5ths ... But its not clear what you do want to play. Double bass parts with less finger stretching?
  • Create New...