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Sheared neck screws: What to do?


Fionn
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Sooo… Yesterday I attempted the deneckification of the said bass.

 

First I tried tapping them out which didn’t work, as the screw threads are very tightly bitten-in.

 

Then I tried to drill out a broken screw, but the drill bit only wanted to travel into the wood (rather than the screw), so I stopped promptly.

 

They’re broken at a point too deep to get a Dremmel in there to cut a pseudo-screw head.

 

Thus, I spat the dummy and will return it to the donor, to be his problem oncemore. 

 

It’s a nice bass, sure. One of those early Indian (FMIC) Encore P-basses with the super heavy body and square string tree … but it’s not valuable amd, failing an easy fix, not worth the ball-ache in the end. 
 

Thanks for all the advice folks. You’re stars.

 

No doubt these techniques would work in other circumstances. 
 

This one was a bee-ach and a half though.

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On 21/07/2023 at 12:14, Woodinblack said:

Looking, yes. The 250 superdream was a 400 superdream with smaller barrels. So it had the weight of the 400 with the power of the 250. It was wallowy and horrible.

That is compared the the Z250, GSX250, GS250 (which in itself was a bit wierd) of the time, and the RD250/KH250 which were older. Before the world went crazy with the RD250LC and RG250.

 

I had a couple of 250 Superdreams and a 400 Dream. The 400 was definitely better.

 

A friend of mine has recently been restoring a CB400A (the automatic version), making one good engine from two. One of the two had apparently been used as a boat anchor and that wonderful cylinder head bolt system really came into its own on that.

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Late to this thread.  Simple fix.

 

Drill out the screws with a plug cutter as shown below.  These are effectively drill bits to make your own dowels.

 

Just drill down through the body (put some tape on the cutters to ensure you don't go too deep).  And repeat.  Neck should then just come away from the neck with a collar of wood around the broken screws.  Chip away the wood, turn/twist out the dead screws with a pair pliers.

 

Next redrill the actual body with a wood drill bit to make the new holes up to a standard dowel size (6/8/9mm or whatever).  Glue in a new dowel with PVA glue or Gorilla stuff, cut back flush to the body once the glue is dry.  Redrill for new screws.  Easy really.

 

All this work will be invisible (hidden behind a backplate and in the neck pocket.

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

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I've had very good success with homemade cutters made of tubing. I cut the teeth in the opposite direction to that video image and run the drill counter clockwise.

In several instances I have had the homemade cutter bind to the broken screw and reverse it out without drilling the hole out to more then a couple of mm depth

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2 hours ago, Maude said:

I don't know what I'm enjoying most, the neck removal dilemma or the Superdream chat. 

BassChat doing what it does best 😁

Came on here to read about sheared neck screws and ended up reminiscing over my old CB400N Superdream 😍 perfect example of the Basschat off-topic diversion 😂 and before anyone asks, yes that handlebar fairing was useless 😂

CB400N Superdream.jpeg

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Late in but dang, dremmelling faux screw head into remainder has to be the worst advice ever read. The remainder is sheared off at the body or inside. By the time the slot is cut there's less than half the metal section left that already gave way and the body has slots too. Snowball's chance of any of that plan coming together.

 

Ditto punching anything out (the wrong way through virgin neck material, huh?%#*!)

 

Wangling the neck off the remaining stubs after the other screws are out might work.

 

Plug cutting will work.

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44 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:

dremmelling faux screw head into remainder has to be the worst advice ever read

It definitely works in some situations, I’ve been a joiner for 35 years and it’s used regularly in the joinery shop 

 

44 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:

Wangling the neck off the remaining stubs after the other screws are out might work

Not something I would do it would probably tear the neck pocket wood 

Edited by Reggaebass
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When my maruzchyk bass broke its bottom strap button, I took it to a friend of mine who used an old bit of brass pipe he had, put notches on the bottom and drilled the screw out, put a dowel in then a new screw. Couldn't have put a notch in the old screw as it was too small and the metal wasn't good enough even for a head, let alone a thin screw line.

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12 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

It definitely works in some situations, I’ve been a joiner for 35 years and it’s used regularly in the joinery shop

 

With the best will in the world, think about the size of the screws that are holding the neck on - they may only be 2 or 3mm in diameter - so you're not going have have much left to get once you've Dremelled out enough metal to get a flathead screwdriver in there.  You're going to need to factor in the level of torque to get the screw turning AND the risk of shearing off whatever metal is left at the top of the old screw (at which point you'll be wondering why you didn't make a pipe tool as covered above!).

 

 

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On 23/07/2023 at 09:05, Fionn said:

Sooo… Yesterday I attempted the deneckification of the said bass.

 

First I tried tapping them out which didn’t work, as the screw threads are very tightly bitten-in.

 

Then I tried to drill out a broken screw, but the drill bit only wanted to travel into the wood (rather than the screw), so I stopped promptly.

 

They’re broken at a point too deep to get a Dremmel in there to cut a pseudo-screw head.

 

Thus, I spat the dummy and will return it to the donor, to be his problem oncemore. 

 

 

 

On 31/07/2023 at 09:40, PaulThePlug said:

 

 

Keep us posted on the Neck Screw Issue...

 

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