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Random Guitarist

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  • Birthday May 20

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    Sussex UK

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  1. Yes I pondered that for a moment. But it is (b+c)/2. I have Post Diameter 'D', String Thickness 'S', and the formula for circumference of a circle C =2 * pi * R My effective radius is half the diameter plus half the post thickness R = D / 2 + S/2 which equivalent to (D+S)/2 From this C= 2 * pi * (D+S) / 2 The expressions to mulitply and divide by 2 cancel leaving C = pi * (D + S)
  2. Yes, that appears to be the case.
  3. Being bored I attached a pointer made out of a post-it note to the top of my tuner and measured the rotation of the post required to go from pitch to slack. The E (.105) needed 1/8th of a full rotation, the G (.045) needed 3/16ths. The tuner post is 11.1mm diameter which stirred together I think gives: Note 1: This was with TI flats Note 2: I need to get out more
  4. Sounds really useful, can you share any details on name/location?
  5. Do you know for sure that the pickup works if it is used? From your description either the pickup is dead or you have shorted the signal wire to earth, or a wire has become disconnected/ broken. Can you share a picture or 2 of the cavity?
  6. I'd be pretty concerned that the plastic bit around the blocks might separate under tension. Also, that plastic is quite pliable you might get an interesting/unwanted pitch change as you pluck. Sorry that sounds really negative, it might work!
  7. This is a really interesting thread and I have been following as I have been wondering about a build with some similar aspects. I really like the idea of a smaller bass, shortening it by removing much of the headstock, putting a roller wheel at the bottom of the bass and taking the string around the back. But I've been struggling to think how the tuner might work. The thought that has just occurred to me is that I don't need to make the end of the string move. I just need to fix it and then somehow apply tension. Which leads me to this bad diagram This intuitively feels like it would be quite simple to make and not have too many moving parts. By slackening the tuning knob the string would be released from tension and the end slide off the pin or other fixing, allowing strings to be changed without tools. I think the biggest question in my mind is how much movement in the tensioner would be needed to bring the string to pitch so long as there is enough adjustment for that it could perhaps work. Another possibility might be to make the pulley move in and out, but that makes the instrument longer and would need a more robust pulley frame to keep things rigid under tension.
  8. One other thing I'd mention which I don't think has been said. It's a pretty good idea (IMHO) to use a drill with a fairly wide bit to drill out a lot of the cavity space before routing. It's a lower risk way of cutting and easier to clear the debris out. If you just start routing without predrilling it's very easy for the cavity to get clogged up with fine router shavings. Pre-drilling also allows you to take lighter cuts, which are generally safer and easier to control.
  9. Yes exactly right. You can use other bits/methods but the bearing bits are easy to use and the templates match the final shape exactly.
  10. Not a guru but ... By the time the bearing drops below the thickness of the template the thing you are routing should be the right shape at the top where the bearing now runs, and will guide it. Also remember you can get bits with different lengths of cutting surface. And yes, so long as you are careful the bottom of the surface you are routing can be super clean. I bought the Erbauer palm router from screwfix earlier this year to supplement a big heavy plunge router, and am very happy with it. Being lightweight with a slow start it's easy to handle, and cheap I'd suggest the most essential accessory is a lump of perspex sheet to make a bigger base for it. The bigger base will make the router more stable so it is safer, less likely to tip in use, and able to rout wider holes with a clean flat cavity. Whatever router you use remember there is a horribly sharp whirling bit, and keep your fingers away. (the bigger base helps with this)
  11. Thanks both! I have been playing a lot today and am pretty happy with the outcome. @SpondonBassed I took a better look at your build thread, and was amused to see you having the same extra tasks chosen, recessing the cover plate and the jack socket. I like your approach of temporarily plugging the jack socket hole with a dowel.
  12. It's built! Lots of bits done today, levelled smoothed and oiled the fretboard, put the neck and body together, screen and wired the cavity etc. It plays really well, but it should really. With 4 strings and a slightly curved plank, how hard can it be to get it right. I am really happy with the colour. To be honest I could have spent more time on the finish but I want to play. I include a pic of my soapbar installation tip. Probably obvious and most people know it, but someone may not. In the initial assembly, after putting the pickups in the routs and marking/drilling pilot holes, I struggled to get pickups, springs and screws lined up on all four corners. While staining the disassembled body I hit on the idea of using cocktail sticks in the pilot holes. They keep the springs aligned and the pickups slide over the sticks. Every thing is perfectly aligned until you are ready to put the screw in each corner. So much easier.
  13. Colour Complete Finally got it done, sanded back the black, two red stains, a metallic grain filler, some wipe on lacquer and we'll call it good. I am very happy with the deepness of the red and the way it shines in a strong light. Just got to let it all cure now . . . . Colour Complete
  14. Ebony is a favorite for me, but I am finishing up a fretless kit with Rosewood which may change that. While I've been setting up and playing acoustically the rosewood board has felt very good. Once the lacquer cures and I get to final assembly I will know for sure.
  15. One more photo, the jack socket now recessed, Maybe a bit OCD but I think it was worth it.
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