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String preferences


ern500evo

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Warwick Red Label are available in both Stainless Steel and Nickel. Used to use the Stainless ones, which were great, lasted well but a bit rough. Then discovered Fender Stainless Rounds (now discontinued), which I thought were excellent (and reasonably priced too), but then they were discontinued.

 

Searched around for something similar, tried some Elite Stadium's, but I didn't like them this time around (used them in the past). When I couldn't get hold of the Fender's anymore, moved to Dunlop DBS Stainless. Again, decent sound, decent longevity, reasonable price. All good, until I bought my 4003, which didn't seem to get on with the Dunlops, just didn't sound anywhere near as good as it should have. I'd heard that D'Addario ProSteel's were supposed to sound good on Ric's, so I bought some to try out. The 4003 came alive, so that was that.

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I just search until I find the set that best seems to bring out the character of the bass.

 

My Yamaha BB wanted GHS Boomers, my Dimarzio P needs Pro Steels, my G&L SB-1 likes Rotosounds, either Roto Bass or Swing Bass.

 

The exact same Boomers that sound great on the BB sound pathetic on the SB-1.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been using Rotos SwingBass66 steels for most of the time I played bass (apart from 2-3 using GHS Boomers in nickel) and always 45-105  gauge.
I then tested 40-100 Rotos on a bass with a weak neck about 2 years ago and felt in love with the feel tone and tension and I've been mounting them Rotos 40-100s on all basses ever since.

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On 28/10/2022 at 13:47, Mudpup said:

the subtle nuances are lost on me, the crowd and my bandmates so price is key. 

 

I am curious. 

 

Can any basschater tell the difference between brands of strings, when they are listening to a track, or a live band?

 

For me, I like the sound and feel of Dunlop steels, but found a £5 set that sounded similar enough when I am playing in a band setup.

 

Certainly, nobody in the audience has ever complained or noticed the difference. 

 

As for this...

On 28/10/2022 at 10:10, ern500evo said:

.... how did you guys settle on a particular strings, did you find a set you liked and stuck with that brand/type, or did you go on a bit of a string trying journey and then decide which ones you like best? 

... I visited the Bass Gallery, and tried lots of basses. When I found one with strings that I liked, I asked what type they were, and bought a set. They were the Dunlop steels. 

 

I also had a basschat recommendation for an eBay seller who had some £5 sets that I tried, and they were fine.

 

 

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My strings fall into three categories . Dead rounds , flats , and fresh rounds. Most basses have flats . Most 34 scales have TIs. I keep fresh rounds on an old Ray. Slinkies, of course. I have ancient dead rounds on an old Pbass. It thumps. I have Black Beauties on a Riverhead Unicorn. They were on when I bought it , and I’ll eventually put another set on it. Most have TI Jazz flats , some sets have been on forever.
I prefer short scales now and with a 30 in scale I like a stiffer string than the TI Jazz flats I loved. And after trying a bunch I seem to be settling on LaBellas.  For fresh shortscale rounds I’ve been buying Gibson Britewires. Nice string. Most shortscales have flats , but I do keep fresh rounds on a couple. And ancient rounds on some for that old school thump. My Longhorn has the factory strings , it was made in 98. All it can do is thump , but it really does that. 

I have Thunderguts on an Ashbory and a uke bass . And Thomastiks on my upright.

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I’ve recently put Ernie Ball hybrid custom gauge slinky stainless steels on my Sire V7 and really like them. They have a really nice brightness to them and don’t feel too harsh either. Going to put a set on my Warwick SS1 tomorrow and use it for a gig on Friday, to see how they sound on that bass 

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I have 4 basses that I use regularly and all have different strings on them.

 

Gus G3 5-string passive - Warwick Black Label 45-135

Gus G3 5-string  active - Warwick Black Label 40-130

Eastwood Hooky Bass 6 PRO - GHS Eastwood Hooky Strings 30-105

Burns Barracuda - Newtone Axion Custom Works Fender VI set 24-100

 

These are the ones that give me the best combination of playing feel and sound with each particular bass.

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Over the last year or so I've moved away from steel roundwounds in favour of black tapewounds. Been using Status where possible but I've been relying on what Dawn can find in the spares box. Medium scale strings are fine for 2+2s.

 

I've moved to Fender and Warwick tapewounds - both very good value when you compare to the more established brands.

 

IMO tapewounds give a warmer , phatter tone, ideal for soulful stuff.

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no 2 basses of mine have the same strings,

My '77 p-bass has a set of very old ernie ball group flats that were on when i bought it 10 years or so ago (and were old strings then) 

the Letts 5 string has chromes as that was what was most easily available at the time (possibly 7 years ago? only bought one set, never felt that they needed replacing)

My Aria Cardinal came with a set of status groundwounds and they are still on there (8 years?) 

my Swift shortscale 5 string has labella flats as there is a limited choice for shortscale 5 string flats, Dunlop or Labella.

My Aria Integra shortscale has GHS precision flats as someone on here was raving about them so i thought i'd give them a try (love them)

 

when i first started i had a Yamaha 5 string and used Dr Fatbeams, they seemed to work really well on that bass, just before I sold it i fitted some Picato flats to it which also semed to suit it well (still has them I believe as it went to a friend and they haven't changed them)

 

for a while i had a few different basses with roundwounds and usually just fitted xl's as they are the easiest to get round here (D'addario distribution centre is just outside toon)

 

Matt

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How did I settle on my string choice?  The destination following a long journey; I use Elixir Nanowebs on most of my basses, I have a set of Markbass Long Evos on one.

 

For me, it got to a ridiculous point where I could be spending £60-80 a month changing strings once they became too ponky.  I'd be using D'Addario or Dunlop (or whatever was in my box of stuff) at £20 a pop and these lasted about as long as the shelf life of a Boots prawn sandwich.  

 

Yes, Elixirs are expensive, maybe double+ that of budget brands, but they last for ages and retain their zing. (Likewise goes Long Evos.)  I don't think I've changed any strings this year.

 

 

 

 

Edited by NancyJohnson
Speling fail.
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1 hour ago, NancyJohnson said:

How did I settle on my string choice?  The destination following a long journey; I use Elixir Nanowebs on most of my basses, I have a set of Markbass Long Evos on one.

 

For me, it got to a ridiculous point where I could be spending £60-80 a month changing strings once they became too ponky.  I'd be using D'Addario or Dunlop (or whatever was in my box of stuff), which had a usable life akin to that if a prawn sandwich.  

 

Yes, Elixirs are expensive, maybe double+ the other brands, but they last for ages and retain their zing. (Likewise Long Evos.)  I don't think I've changed any strings this year.

 

 

I like Elixir Nanowebs too. My Yamaha is currently strung with them. Their longevity definitely makes up for the price. 

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Surprised to not see them mentioned yet in this thread, but I use Ernie ball

cobalt flats , 45-100. 
last set I had in for 8 years and they still sounded brilliant. I only changed them because I got it in my head one might snap during a gig just because of age…… so I changed them, and again , brilliant strings.

they are really well balanced and have a great low /medium tension to the feel. They feel smooth and quick

to The touch.

 

i did use dd chromes flats for years but these cobalt flats kicked them well

into touch.

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