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Another Swift Lite Bass


Andyjr1515

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On 29/12/2018 at 15:28, Andyjr1515 said:

Another job off the list, other than the dots (I've put luminlay as an option to the customer, @TheGreek  - thanks for the suggestion) and the tru-oil, I've done the knobs :)

 

Same method as on @Len_derby 's:

Drilled a hole in some thicknessed ash:

_MG_7506.thumb.JPG.bfa187a20d9d98375141a451eda4fa4a.JPG

Without moving the drill or wood positions, then used a forstner for the nut relief:

_MG_7507.thumb.JPG.f4710fc014cdf8746a4954a9befab05c.JPG 

 

Then a plug cutter to cut it out:

_MG_7509.thumb.JPG.b0b47df3e45e2df20c3c2c2367dacde7.JPG

 

Drilled a grub-screw access hole and pressed the insert in, with grub-screw lined up with that small hole and also used the plug cutter to cut out a disc of top wood:_MG_7511.thumb.JPG.f9c2c5484991441d067a631d06fcd010.JPG

_MG_7513.thumb.JPG.3af060e5c87f6cad1e2d19472bbf6593.JPG

 

Then, adding a disc of veneer between the two, glued and clamped it together:

_MG_7515.thumb.JPG.7901b908d136ef31908cfe03d78f0bb3.JPG 

 

Finally sanded to shape:

_MG_7523.thumb.JPG.76632d362b22043bcac54228ab5029cb.JPG

 

So just the dots to add once I've had an answer of luminlay or MoP :)

Awesome :i-m_so_happy:and great pics too.

 

 

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While the festives and family stuff has been going on, progress has been a bit spasmodic but by the end of tomorrow, I should be able to put some quality time into finishing this - hopefully by the end of the week.

I've got two more slurry and buff grades to do on the body - 1500 and 2000, but already it is feeling right and looking pretty even.  Here's how the back presently stands:

3ZJlH8Zl.jpg

wg10vQGl.jpg

 

The basic back carve shape is the same as on @Len_derby 's build.  What I liked about this variation is that it still looks and feels a substantially thick body and yet still has the comfort and weight advantages of the arched back - some of my other builds have tapered more at the sides, making it look super skinny which freaks some players out (especially 6-string electric guitar players :lol:

 

This variation softens the carve towards the edges, so retains the edge and front view thickness:

jtRKtIJl.jpg

 

Still to do  - 
Final two grit levels of the body oil slurry and buff – 1500 and 2000 grit
Sort the magnetic hatch and trussrod cover fixings
Fit the jack-plate, set into the body the same way the bridge is
Copper-foil line the control chamber
Fit the electrics and pickups
Level, re-crown and polish the frets
Micro-mesh the neck and fretboard progressively to around 8000 grit micro-mesh
Fit the nut, bridge, tuners and strap buttons
String up
Set up
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Well, definitely on the final furlong!

I inset the jack-plate into the body wood in the same way as I did for the bridge:

5mNWW8vl.jpg

Then fitted magnets on the ebony truss-rod cover. The 3mm magnet at the apex does all the work - the 2mm ones either side at the nut just positions it:

Vnuf17yl.jpg

aq7g8ufl.jpg

 

And put the magnets on the copper-lined chamber cover - these are 5mm in the nodes and 4mm on the cover itself:

og3IJM3l.jpg

fCqstObl.jpg

 

I will be disappointed if this isn't all finished by the weekend :)

 

 

 

 

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I speak from experience when I say that magnets will make life sooo much easier.

No more hunting down a tiny screw driver or chewing up screw heads just to turn a truss rod a quarter turn or install a battery. Evolution....magnets are the equivalent of round wheels, you were happy to put up with square wheels cos you didn't know any better - once you know it seems obvious and you can't understand why somebody didn't think of it sooner.

More good work, Andy...no doubt you have one more satisfied client.

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Sorted the nut height and then put my 'see if it all fits together' set of strings on.

At my action height starting point (medium) there are no buzzes at all so I think the basic levelling job was OK.  When the proper strings are on, I'll set it up properly and do a double check with the fret rocker and the buzz check at low action in case there are some high spots anywhere.

This is how the tru-oil slurry and buff has ended up, finishing at 1500 grit.  This is an oblique shot to the light so you can see the surface finish:

 _MG_7597.thumb.JPG.ab0199418ba0325b8605f2f29923195c.JPG

...and this is tilted to see the figuring better:

_MG_7600.thumb.JPG.92cd1d973031c5d43fe5662f3f288e01.JPG

It's LOVELY to the touch. 

Still got to do the final 1500 slurry and buff on the back - and I've still got to do the final buffing of the fretboard and neck - but this is how the whole thing is panning out:

_MG_7587.thumb.JPG.32dc87432d6b4fc4d5114475d7ef3e25.JPG

_MG_7588.thumb.JPG.7ee32b96a89d13b19d07224d4fe28ba6.JPG

 

All being well it should be finished by the end of the weekend :)

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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On 11/01/2019 at 12:39, Andyjr1515 said:

Sorted the nut height and then put my 'see if it all fits together' set of strings on.

At my action height starting point (medium) there are no buzzes at all so I think the basic levelling job was OK.  When the proper strings are on, I'll set it up properly and do a double check with the fret rocker and the buzz check at low action in case there are some high spots anywhere.

This is how the tru-oil slurry and buff has ended up, finishing at 1500 grit.  This is an oblique shot to the light so you can see the surface finish:

 _MG_7597.thumb.JPG.ab0199418ba0325b8605f2f29923195c.JPG

...and this is tilted to see the figuring better:

_MG_7600.thumb.JPG.92cd1d973031c5d43fe5662f3f288e01.JPG

It's LOVELY to the touch. 

Still got to do the final 1500 slurry and buff on the back - and I've still got to do the final buffing of the fretboard and neck - but this is how the whole thing is panning out:

_MG_7587.thumb.JPG.32dc87432d6b4fc4d5114475d7ef3e25.JPG

 

 

All being well it should be finished by the end of the weekend :)

 

Deary me... 😍😍  beauuuuuuuuutiful!

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OK - although there is one variation I'm putting in, explained below, its as finished as makes no difference.

It's now got a set of heavy gauge NYXL's (James' request) which, so far, hasn't snapped the neck!  They are pretty mighty, though at 55-110.  They even added 2oz to my weight check with my set-up medium string set!!   But, wow, they sound good.  I've recorded a tiny bit just to show the bridge, middle, neck on the blender and played through my mini PA (don't have a bass rig, I'm afraid) which I will post shortly.  In the meantime, here are a few finished shots with the arty farty black background.

Forgive the self-indulgence, folks  :D  :

gi9u2wnh.jpg

rFDQoJCh.jpgnMefT34h.jpg

C6GTGlIh.jpg

XKEVsG7h.jpg

NfS4VkOh.jpg

 

The variation I'm toying with is a request by James to see what a matching control cover rather than a contrasting one would look like.  In both cases - because they are made from the few offcuts of the top or back timbers that are big enough, I'm not able to choose matching grains.  This is what a control cover from an Ash offcut looks like:

7gnw85kh.jpg

It's a pity the offcut wasn't big enough even to have it the other way round but it wasn't 9_9

In real life, the contrasting one actually looks better because it is clearly matched to the top wood but it's no problem either way - I'll send both and James can fit whichever he prefers.  They have magnetic catches so it only takes around 2 seconds to swop them.

With the (literally) heavy-gauge strings, it's final playing weight is an ounce over 6 3/4 lbs.  A few ounces heavier than @Len_derby 's Jazz p/up version, but still not bad for a long-scale PJ :)

I'll see if the sound clip has come out anything like OK and, if so, will post shortly :)

 

As always, many thanks for the very encouraging feedback along the way :)

Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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You are a clever and talented chap. Up to and including, mind reading; I was looking at the alternate back cover and thought that it’d look better the other way round, scrolled down and you told me why you couldn’t do that. 👏👏👏

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29 minutes ago, ezbass said:

You are a clever and talented chap. Up to and including, mind reading; I was looking at the alternate back cover and thought that it’d look better the other way round, scrolled down and you told me why you couldn’t do that. 👏👏👏

Yeah - crazy.  I had a number of offcuts big enough but with the grain direction 90 degrees out.  This was the only one and - because it was the offcut from the waist - it already had a curve there so, other than doing a book-matched two piece, there was no option.

Hmmm... and that's given me an idea... 

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4 minutes ago, TheGreek said:

My GB Rumour had a clear tinted plastic (think record deck grey) electronics cover so you could see the gadgetry inside. I always thought this was a nice touch

I've seen those - they are cool.

No - James is on the other side of the scale and prefers more traditional looks (hence the amber stains on the neck and body, etc.) 

My crazy idea is linked to another consideration - with the Hawaiian climate, is a solid thin wooden cover going to warp?

So - what if I DO do a bookmatched cover with a better grain orientation and then pop a plate on the back with grain at 90 degrees to prevent any warping and to help hold the very thin bookmatch together...

It'll only take an hour to try it out...I'll have a go in the morning ;)

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First things first, that's another top class job Andy, congratulations.  You must be well chuffed.

I'm going to get bullied (and rightly so) for saying this, but sometimes I like the look of a normal black plastic control cover on a natural wood guitar.  Sometimes I think the mixture of grains and woods gets a bit much, and the plain black provides a bit of relief and contrast.  And also it would match the black hardware and pickup covers really nicely.  Here's one of mine in mahogany and maple:

3.jpg

You probably hate the idea, but if not and you're passing, pop in because I'm pretty sure I've got some scrap black pickguard that you can use to check how it looks.....

As far as the warping question goes, I'm not sure about the Hawaiian climate, but I've definitely had wood control covers warp simply from applying finish. 

 

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1 hour ago, honza992 said:

First things first, that's another top class job Andy, congratulations.  You must be well chuffed.

I'm going to get bullied (and rightly so) for saying this, but sometimes I like the look of a normal black plastic control cover on a natural wood guitar.  Sometimes I think the mixture of grains and woods gets a bit much, and the plain black provides a bit of relief and contrast.  And also it would match the black hardware and pickup covers really nicely.  Here's one of mine in mahogany and maple:

3.jpg

You probably hate the idea, but if not and you're passing, pop in because I'm pretty sure I've got some scrap black pickguard that you can use to check how it looks.....

As far as the warping question goes, I'm not sure about the Hawaiian climate, but I've definitely had wood control covers warp simply from applying finish. 

 

Not at all worried about standard plastic covers, to be honest, @honza992.  BUT I have a bookmatched ash cover gluing at this very moment, such is the crazed world of Andyjr1515 guitar and bass building!  :lol:

Did anyone ever tell you what a mighty fine bass that one of your looks.... 

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