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NBD Another Fender clone!


MikanHannille
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I've been waiting for years to get a hold of this beauty. Finally pulled the trigger last week. Second hand from Ishibashi.

Atelier Z M265 Plus custom white

with her older sister Fender 70's RI

[url="http://s37.photobucket.com/user/hessler312/media/1544321_994612453897718_4329915932997752484_n_zps6012bed9.jpg.html"][/url]

Will post more photos of both later after work! :gas:

Edited by MikanHannille
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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415876696' post='2604700']
Interesting.

What made you choose Atelier Z over the plethora of other Japanese supper-jazz makes?
[/quote]

Ticked most of the things I'm looking for a bass.

70's look/sound
maple board
light weight
capable of totally different sound in a flick of a switch

Only thing is it's 34" hence I have a Lakland for 35".

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[quote name='MikanHannille' timestamp='1415880845' post='2604746']
Ticked most of the things I'm looking for a bass.

70's look/sound
maple board
light weight
capable of totally different sound in a flick of a switch

Only thing is it's 34" hence I have a Lakland for 35".
[/quote]

If there another J pickup under the cover?

Why the two different scale lengths? Wouldn't a single scale length be simpler if you are swapping between basses?

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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415881264' post='2604750']
If there another J pickup under the cover?

Why the two different scale lengths? Wouldn't a single scale length be simpler if you are swapping between basses?
[/quote]

Yes there is.

About the scale lenght. I suppose it's much simpler that way. But I'm not intending to have both fiver out at the same time. It's nice to have one of each in the event that there's a song that needs a tighter B string sound. That's my logic anyway. :lol:

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1415881096' post='2604748']
Looks fantastic!
[/quote]

Thanks!

[quote name='Bass_Guardian' timestamp='1415870856' post='2604592']
Looks great! :D
[/quote]

Thanks!

[quote name='bamboscha' timestamp='1415876332' post='2604689']
Beautiful. Ishibashi is the nuts. I'm sure you will enjoy it. Here's a DAL-4 I picked up from the U-box last year:
[/quote]

Thanks! That's a looker too!

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[quote name='MikanHannille' timestamp='1415882155' post='2604769']
About the scale lenght. I suppose it's much simpler that way. But I'm not intending to have both fiver out at the same time. It's nice to have one of each in the event that there's a song that needs a tighter B string sound. That's my logic anyway. :lol:
[/quote]

I've never found that adding a single inch to the speaking length of the string (less than 3% of the length) makes any useful difference. Fine if you like the feel of the extra space between the frets, but as a solution to a less than adequate low B, IME string choice and overall neck and neck joint construction are far more important.

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Personal preference. It does for me. My first fiver was a 34". Didn't got on with it. Switched with 35" and loved it. I know string choice and neck joint are important but all things considered I can still hear and feel the difference between the two. So having both 34" and 35" for different occasion is the answer for me.

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My experience is that you need to go to 36" scale and beyond before the scale length makes enough difference to be worthwhile.

Certainly in the mid-price market (£500-£900) the extra inch does nothing other than to make the strings a bit longer.

I have yet to find a better low B than the one on my 34" scale Sei 5-string

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I've just bought a 35" scale 5-string and it has a much more playable B string than a Fender 34" scale bass I had previously... but I'm quite willing to believe this doesn't necessarily have anything much to do with it... there are far too many other parameters involved. The 35" scale bass is far superior in build quality all round, so...

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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415885911' post='2604825']
My experience is that you need to go to 36" scale and beyond before the scale length makes enough difference to be worthwhile.

[/quote]

The weight difference between a Mike Lull and an Overwater pretty much kills that argument for me. :lol:

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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415882802' post='2604777']
I've never found that adding a single inch to the speaking length of the string (less than 3% of the length) makes any useful difference. Fine if you like the feel of the extra space between the frets, but as a solution to a less than adequate low B, IME string choice and overall neck and neck joint construction are far more important.
[/quote]
I have been looking at my Stingray necks compared to my Fender neck and I can see an improvement Musicman have made that could be part of the "Stingray, has a killer B on it" "Flappy Fender V B string" from the same scale and bolt on construction that look fairly similar to most eyes, well the neck on a stingray 5 is thicker on the heel than a Fender 5, it would involve a lot more wasted wood to do that but it would make for a stronger neck join and less able to bend?
22mm of neck and 28mm of body on a Standard USA Fender Jazz V and with a small 4 bolt plate.
26mm of neck and 25mm of body on a USA EBMM Stingray5 which also has a much larger neck plate and 6 screws

The 3mm lost pocket thickness makes more sense regarding construction as the body is not going to bend is it? and a 4mm gain in the most vulnerable not reinforced area is quite a bit IMO?

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Don't Musicman use a different style of truss rod to Fender too? I think MM have a straight rod made from two parallel pieces while Fender have a single curved rod. I wouldn't like to say that one is superior to the other, but there could be a difference in rigidity between the two.

Edited by Beer of the Bass
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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415882802' post='2604777']
I've never found that adding a single inch to the speaking length of the string (less than 3% of the length) makes any useful difference. Fine if you like the feel of the extra space between the frets, [b]but as a solution to a less than adequate low B, IME string choice and overall neck and neck joint construction are far more important.[/b]
[/quote]

True, IMO.

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[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1415899491' post='2605064']
Don't Musicman use a different style of truss rod to Fender too? I think MM have a straight rod made from two parallel pieces while Fender have a single curved rod. I wouldn't like to say that one is superior to the other, but there could be a difference in rigidity between the two.
[/quote]
Fender USA Standard and Deluxe do have the graphite rods though so I dont know, stupid truss adjuster is rubbish on the Fenders, MM system is brilliant!

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[quote name='MikanHannille' timestamp='1415865379' post='2604523']
I've been waiting for years to get a hold of this beauty. Finally pulled the trigger last week. Second hand from Ishibashi.

Atelier Z M265 Plus custom white

with her older sister Fender 70's RI

[url="http://s37.photobucket.com/user/hessler312/media/1544321_994612453897718_4329915932997752484_n_zps6012bed9.jpg.html"][/url]

Will post more photos of both later after work! :gas:
[/quote]
What does what then regarding switching/tone etc? :D

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1415904170' post='2605140']
What does what then regarding switching/tone etc? :D
[/quote]

White going to be the main as sometimes we change the key of some songs on the spot. I'll keep the black as backup. She had her share of being the main for a couple of years! :lol:

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1415912595' post='2605266']
Sorry, I did not word that very well, I mean what do the knobs do on it regarding pickup selection, treble, bass etc passive or active and what not?
[/quote]

Ohh. It's volume/volume (jazz pickups), volume(humbucker), pickup selector, treble and bass(push pull for active/passive)

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