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Prime_BASS

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Everything posted by Prime_BASS

  1. Indeed. More watts to me just means than you are reaching the maximum volume displacement(if that's the right term) sooner on the master volume. The 750 with one TC cab would be outputting around 400watts and I'm sure they would sell something and say it can be used with current cabs if they have the potential to over load them.
  2. I'm loving my rh750 through the Barefaced super12T. There is a lot more bass response than I got from the littlemark tube when set flat, however this could be due to more power? It's very loud indeed, I'm afraid of pushing the master up too much incase I break something, Walls start shaking and the like at around 9/10 o clock. The only thing that's confusing is how to control the tweeter. Do you set the tweeter to the normal level you have then try and get the level right on the head? No idea. At the minute the tweeter on the cab is fully on, and I'm controlling it with the tweetertone on the head. The cab also takes the heads OD sounds very well. I've always said to people you get out what you put in with this cab, and I'm very glad that the RH750 is as transparent as it is, doesnt colour your sound at all as the cab doesn't particularly have a "voice" like you find with ampeg or ashdown. Although with the tubetone and some clever EQ you can get pretty much any sound you like. At 19kgs it's easy enough to hual around and for the volume it produces you won't find anything that sounds as big, is as light and has a smaller foot print.
  3. [quote name='lojo' post='1237215' date='May 19 2011, 06:24 PM']Wont these amps push the TC cabs to the limit ?[/quote] Isn't that the idea? I don't really care anyway as my cab should safely take 1000watts.
  4. It's nothing personal against the bass, and if I'm honest I don't mind if it doesn't sell. I find myself not playing it due to my love of the stingray. It's like going to a dogs home and picking the one that's scruffy and smells a bit for no real reason. I guess the old school vibe of the stingray is more me. Plus being jobless is Playing on my mind, trades are there purely for GAS.
  5. Not for me afraid. I prefer rays (ATM) But you never really get a sense of what a bass is about until you are producing some high volume. A practice with the band always seals/breaks the deal for me. Even at home with considerable volume you don't get a sense of what its adding or missing in terms of sound.
  6. Gourmet beans?
  7. It is very nice!! Unfortunately it's for sale
  8. [quote name='Muppet' post='1237179' date='May 19 2011, 05:56 PM']How's the weight? Glad you're getting on OK with it! See, no need to have worried!! Steve[/quote] lol. its fine I guess, could wiegh less.... in all fairness with all the added crap I needed to power a compressor and a tuner I'm saving weight now. [attachment=80427:Picture_003.jpg] whoop [attachment=80429:Picture_005.jpg]
  9. [attachment=80426:Picture_003.jpg] master vol, to taste
  10. selling due to taste and cant justify keeping this without using it. The bass is in 99.9% condition the 0.1 being a tiny tiny faint scuff on the top of the of the head stock on the back edge. It's so small and light I can't photograph it with my iPhone. Everything else is top notch. The case is in brand new condition never left the house and still has the candy except the string cleaner(turns out dogs love the taste). The bass has only been used for light practice, get some great stingray sounds, it's own tone with full single coils is amazing and middy with rounded lows, also is capable of P-bass sounds which sound great dirty. The overall feel is just not for me, and I much prefer the stingray for playing and overall vintage character. Unless this spec sterling comes up: Early(94-95ish) Birdeye maple neck Rosewood or maple fingerboard Big classic bridge White, or similarly vintage colour. Would like one to complement my stingray and for use when the stingray feels like it's having an off day. [attachment=80422:Picture_001.jpg] [attachment=80423:Picture_002.jpg] more pictures on request More than welcome for people to come and give the thing a try. Stephen
  11. Been blasting it all day. And I'm loving it's cleanness and high end. Running it flat it's got more bass than the Markbass LMTube (good comparison as it's roughly the sane price) After all that fussing over tube pre, I don't know what I was worried about, it's got plenty "dynamics" and that's with out any tubetone. It's all very usuable and the spectracomps lights make it very informative. Best bass head ever... Well it has my vote anyway. Pics to follow!
  12. My new RH750 is on the way today. Not even showered yet incase I miss Mr. Postman. Can't wait been without a bass amp for a week and its like losing a friend, or going cold turkey from bass
  13. Sold a MB LMTube to Walman. Very quick deal, fast payment and it was a pleasure for someone else to sort out courier. Bang tidy! Oooosh. Prime_BASS Stephen
  14. Since you've cut your sig down I have no idea what you do have. I still maintain buying a Barefaced midget. At 9kg it's easy to carry, small footprint, and should suit your band set up nicely. But I guess using a DI is the more sensible option.
  15. [quote name='dale1989' post='1204124' date='Apr 18 2011, 08:52 PM']Was just wondering what you all think of the Electro Harmonix bass big muff? i want something to give me that bit of crunch and have been recomended a big muff by my brother as he has the little big muff for his guitar and loves it... if you dont rate this one then what would you recomend for quite a variety of sounds?[/quote] Why don't you try his big muff with your gear? The little version is practically the same as the bigger version. I have a big muff pi and its great fuzz, keeps lies relatively intact with out destroying definition. Has good mid range response too, I tend to use it instead of overdrive or distortion.
  16. Personally I feel the vt is too wooly and mushed in the low end, hardly any definition compared to the BDDI or even the classic.
  17. Well if you want to wait a day or two to decide, I get my rh750 tomorrow and ill tell you how it does with the Barefaced super12T.
  18. I recommend that strings be cute 5 or 6 inches from the tuning post, however things like string and string post make significant difference. On my stingray the schaller tuners have and inverted middle and are kinda short and force the winding down low for better break angle. But there is a d-tuner and the post is tall so a few more inches is needed for the windings to be able to push the string lower, the lower the better. If it is indeed the nut rattling. Buy and fit a new one. However what you've described is commonly associated with the break angle. The best setup in the world won't solve the problem.
  19. [quote name='Hector' post='1235762' date='May 18 2011, 02:31 PM']Thanks all. It's just the open strings (and in fact just the E string) - setup was the first thing I did with the new strings! Will try padding the slot with something.[/quote] May well be the setup? Do you have sufficient enough break angle on the nut to the string post? This can often cuase buzzing on the open strings as they'll buzz on the first fret when plucked.
  20. [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1235134' date='May 18 2011, 02:34 AM']From cheapest to most expensive: Squier, MIM, MIJ, MIA. Squier, MIM and MIA used to be dubious QC, they've improved a lot though recently. MIJ has always been fairly consistent. Lots of people prefer MIJs due to them being consistent value wheras with the MIAs in the past you could be paying more and getting a dog. Apparently most of the QC issues are sorted now and MIMs and MIAs are more consistent, I'd still try before buying though. CIJs are MIJs that were made in a specific factory for a couple of years in the mid 90s IIRC (that could be totally wrong though). All of that's off the top of my head and since I've only ever very briefly had interest in Fenders it could be wrong. [/quote] Roadworns are MIM and are more expensive than the MIA highway one series. Sorry for being pedantic. My old guitard teacher would say " real bassist uses a fender and an ampeg"
  21. Properly funky stuff with mutes. [quote name='mikeswals' post='1235358' date='May 18 2011, 10:41 AM']Well most of the originals were that way too where the D and G intonation screws ran into the pads. After a few hot summer days the pads would migrate forward a tad from being pushed by the screw.[/quote] Ive seen pictures of the old old stingrays and I agree the D and G do push into the pad, however on mine the screws were after Market and the pad sat underneath the screw making them obsolete. They were after Market and Mark at bass direct swiftly sorted me out, over a bank holiday aswell.
  22. [quote name='Robert Manning' post='1234086' date='May 17 2011, 11:09 AM']true true... i was also thinking.. i don't own any basses that don't neck dive! [/quote] The thunderbird doesn't neck dive? I remember at the Notts bass bash I played some wood and tronics basses and they were great, they played pretty amazing and sounded as if the engineers had designed them to sound as best as a bass can sound. Some would say like a piano. But its got very little character and im sure in a mix you wouldnt be able to say "hmm sounds like a wood and tronics" It's for this I prefer stingrays, the characterful sound is very distinguishable in a mix.
  23. Birth year bass must resist!!!!!
  24. They'd probably shift more if they did colours people want. Or is it just us bassists like like surf green, sonic blue and corel red? I was really disappointed to find that EBMM had stopped doing those colours on the classics in favour of colours that look more like baby sick or Jewish racing gold.
  25. Could try emailing overwater, as they might be able to provide tuners to suit the your guitar or at least provide you with contact info to their supplier.
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