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stevie

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Everything posted by stevie

  1. @Dan Dare's right. High-powered subs need to be crossed over actively. You can do it passively in theory, but the components needed to cross over at low frequencies are big, heavy and expensive - which is why active is the preferred solution.
  2. 1. Follow the colour coding for the tweeter wires. They're usually red and black. If you wire them the other way, you'll put the tweeter out of phase. 2. There shouldn't be a problem making a couple of holes in the baffle for the connection tabs. Nobody will see the holes you've drilled when it's covered by the tweeter. The main thing is that you don't introduce any leaks in the baffle. Stick a strip of adhesive foam around the tweeter to make sure it's sealed. 3. Ashdown normally use adhesive foam strip under their grilles. As @BassmanPaul says, you should be able to simply replace the grille on the old foam strip. If you'd like to replace the foam, you can get it in the width you need from Ebay or Blue Aran. 2mm thickness is usually right.
  3. May be interesting for some. https://www.proavl-asia.com/details/73643-b-c-speakers-acquires-eminence-speaker
  4. Agreed. Having carried out a/b comparisons of plastic vs wooden cabs, I think the difference (when reproducing solo bass guitar) is bigger than most people suspect.
  5. I sold Mike a pair of Kappalite drivers a couple of years ago and forgot to mention it here. I'm putting that right now. Everything that's been said so far is true. Great guy to deal with.
  6. stevie

    FRFR

    The FRFR concept comes from the world of electric guitar. Among other things, it gives you the benefit of having a proper monitor on stage rather than a guitar cab. However, you definitely need a modeller of some kind to simulate the sound of a guitar speaker, which is an inherent part of the electric guitar sound. You absolutely don't need to use a modeller when you're using an FRFR cab designed with bass guitar in mind. A standard bass amp will do the job just fine. Our guitarist turned up last night with a Headrush cab and a small Line 6 modeller. "It's 2000 watts," he proclaimed. It looked like it had an 8-inch speaker in it. It didn't sound bad, but he tried the modeller in my FRFR cab with a neutral bass amp and there was a world of difference.
  7. Sorry for the delay in replying to this. If you want to disconnect the tweeter you must bypass the crossover. Do not simply disconnect the tweeter. The easiest solution is to leave the crossover where it is, remove all the wires going to it, and then connect one black and one red wire from your Speakons to your two bass drivers - as per the diagram above. If you leave the crossover in circuit with the tweeter disconnected, you are likely to damage your amp.
  8. The ground is common. They're both connected to the negative input.
  9. Yes, connecting two 16-ohm drivers in parallel will give your cab an impedance of 8 ohms. You're right about red and black - they stand for + and -. If you can't see any markings on the PCB, you'll have to try the polarity both ways and listen. Choose the polarity that gives you the most treble. The easiest way would be to assemble the cab, listen - and then remove the tweeter, swap the wires and listen again. Then choose the polarity you prefer.
  10. Connect the green and yellow wires to the tweeter, observing the polarity marks on the PCB. It looks like the cab was originally wired in series. If you have two 16-ohm drivers, you'll want to connect them in parallel. So, take the black and red wires coming from the Speakon and connect them to the first driver. Then take another pair of wires from the first driver to the second one.
  11. Let's hope the "you must never mix cabs" brigade don't see this. 😊
  12. Have you tried Musictribe support?
  13. You've got to hand it to Behringer - when they do it right, they make the competition look silly. I had the BX4500H head for a while and it easily kept up in terms of sound quality an output with the lightweight amp I had at the time - a Markbass LM3, I think. The only problem with it was a noisy fan, which I fixed with some resistors. It's a great second-hand buy for the impecunious bass player. I'm currently using the Bugera Veyron, which is *much* cheaper than the Aguilar Tonehammer it replaced.
  14. Richard's latest drawing is now on page 1.
  15. It would be good if you could bump your items wanted posts.
  16. Drawings now added to post 1. Many thanks to @RichardH
  17. It definitely won't be called the Mini-Monza. 😃 Pm on its way, @Stub Mandrel
  18. You can certainly use the Monza with your Elf, @Stub Mandrel, but you're not going to get the most out of it unless you have a more powerful amp. This doesn't mean that it's low sensitivity, but it will handle lots of power without complaining and go as loud as most players on this forum will ever need - on its own. I'm currently prototyping a cab that Stub has more or less written the specification for in his post. It makes the most of the tiny heads like the Elf that are popular at the moment. It's still a couple of months away yet but, if anyone's curious, I can provide the spec and pricing via pm.
  19. You'll find the drawings you need on page 6, @Stub Mandrel. It's worth skimming through the thread and in particular following the link to @Phil Starr's cabinet assembly video.
  20. No SPL charts, but Eminence's TS parameters for these drivers are listed in a thread about this particular cabinet at the 'other place'. Re 14.62 Ohms fs 58.7 Hz Le 1.06 mH Mms 21.5 grams QM 2.76 Mmd 17.7 grams QE 0.81 Cms 0.341 mm/N QT 0.62 Rms 2.877 N*sec/m Xmax 3.30 mm Vas 61.2 liters Pmax 75 Watts SD 355.4 cm^2 Bl 12.01 Tm VD 117.4 cm^3 Coil Diameter 1.50 Inches EBP 72.9 Gap Height 0.24 Inches Magnet Weight 20 ounces Efficiency 1.49 % Winding Width 0.500 inches SPL 93.7 dB 1W-1m
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