stevie

I can paint the baffle any colour you like as long as it's British Racing Green. 😀 Only joking.... if you want a different coloured baffle, you just need to give me the paint reference (RAL number ideally). There's no extra charge.

The wood looks nice. I'd expect a stained finish to look good.

You just beat me to @BigRedX. Absolutely right.

You can't complain about that.

It's even worse. The E112 contains higher spec components than the K12 - larger voice coils in both the LF and HF drivers. I'd guess an honest power rating for the K12 would be 300 watts. Problem is, if they published the honest rating, nobody would buy them because the competition are pulling the same trick. 😀

The port size was increased from 4" to 5" some time ago, while the lower crossover point is a recent development, made possible by the adoption of a more powerful compression driver. These are small, incremental improvements, which the average user is unlikely to notice. The sound of the cabs hasn't changed and the larger port will only make itself felt at extreme volumes. The changes from Silverstone to Silverstone II were enough to warrant renaming the cab. That's not the case with the Monza - or the Monaco for that matter, which has also benefited from incremental improvements over time.

The link doesn't work, @Phil Starr. I have some, limited experience of painting plastics, as I paint the ports on LFSys cabs. You can't apply normal paint directly; you need to use a special plastic primer. Fortunately, these are available for not much money at most DIY stores. A thin coating is fine. Once you've applied the (spray) primer, you can paint with whatever you like. An acrylic like Tuffcab is a good choice, as it dries quickly and doesn't give off nasty fumes. I've not tried them myself, but there are a number of products available to fill chips and dents in ABS - the kind of thing the autobody guys use to fix bumpers.

Back to the matter in hand. As others have said, the OP not going to gain anything in terms of performance by swapping the QSCs for any of the cabs mentioned. As far as I can gather, the MK1 K12 used off-the-shelf Celestion drivers which are still available. So, as long as the amp doesn't give out, they have many years left in them. If they were mine, I'd be tempted to refurbish them. A can of satin black paint will work wonders on the grilles, for example.

Does your driver have a cast aluminium chassis? Drivers with a cast chassis tend to be larger in diameter than those with a pressed steel chassis. So, a replacement driver with a pressed steel chassis might fit. Check out the specs provided by the driver manufacturers, where the precise diameter is usually stated.

Please don't expect loads of reviews yet. The first Goodwood has gone out to a customer who has promised to report back, and some beta testers have tried the cabs and will no doubt chime in when they're ready. But shipping won't start in earnest for a month or so.

What matters for power handling is not what the amps are rated at, but what the drivers will take. Both the RCF and FBT drivers have 2.5-inch coils, which limits them to around 300 watts at most. Although some high-end components will handle more, a good 1.75" voice coil compression driver will handle about 50 watts. So, the 700W peak rating for high frequencies is, shall we say, optimistic. I wouldn't say there's any difference in the roadworthiness of plastic and plywood cabs. What bothers me about plastic cabs is the sound. I appreciate I may be more sensitive than most to this because plenty of people on here are happy with their plastic cabs - and they sell by the bucketload.😀

I've had a look at the published specs of the RCF 912 and the FBT and they're fairly similar. Both bass drivers have 2.5" coils - so they're what you'd call 300W cabs in a non-hyped world. The RCF has a pressed steel chassis and ceramic magnet and I reckon the FBT is the same - otherwise they would mention it. This is budget PA, not high-end. The FBT compression driver has a 1.4" coil, while the RCF has a 1.75" coil, which puts the RCF ahead on points. However, the horn is likely to make more of a difference than the HF units. RCF horns are normally excellent; I can't comment on the FBT horn, as I can't find any photos. The kicker for me is that the FBT has a plywood cabinet, as @Phil Starr has pointed out. I can't stand the "boxy" sound of plastic cabs personally. It looks like they're close. Price and weight are similar. The five-year warranty is another plus point for the FBT. I can't see any downsides for either cabs at the price, although the proof is always in the pudding.

The Seymour Duncan Convertible combo had the option of a solid state or tube rectifier, which may be what you remember, @Dood

This is a very good summary of the stacking options available. Classic theory tells us that you should keep drivers as close together as possible, especially when they are reproducing the same frequencies. However, I suspect that a lot of players might be more concerned about having the grille badge sideways or upside-down when using one of these configurations. Although normal vertical stacking of tweetered cabs isn't ideal because of comb filtering, it doesn't seem to be a problem in practice as long as the cabs are tonally similar.

My overall preference is for the plastic ones because they offer more protection for the corners and allow for easy stacking (in both portrait and landscape formats). There are some horrible plastic ones which look cheap, but I think the small, chevron types can look very smart. To answer your question, @Ed_S, I certainly wouldn't avoid metal corners and rubber feet, and I can understand your preference.

Modern plastic feet/corners are quite tough, but subjected to enough force, they will crack. What may not be immediately obvious is that, by deforming, they act like a crumple zone to protect the cabinet corner - and they're cheap and easy to replace. Because they're more rigid, metal corners transmit most of the force through to the corner.

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No problem at all acoustically, although you'll need to find a way of stopping your amp from falling off the top of the cab.

John's not suggesting running high frequency drivers without any attentuation (obviously!). He's questioning the point of having an L-pad attenuator in the system at all. I had a three-way bass cab at one time with L-pads on the midrange driver and tweeter. I couldn't for the life of me figure out the best setting by ear and had to carry out measurements to find out what was happening. I ended up with something like twenty-to on the mids and quarter past on the HF. Many people assume that 12 o'clock is flat, but it rarely is. IMO, the best solution is for the manufacturer to set a fixed attentuation level that balances the bass/mid and HF.

The Veyron is very good and exceptional value for money. Performance is in line with the popular lightweight heads from Markbass, Aguilar, Ashdown etc., all of which I've owned. I've no direct experience of EBS or Eich, but if you're using it as a backup, you can't go wrong.

Yes. I did a bit of digging and that's what I found for the 1516.

Oops! Sorry, @SimonK. My mistake.

You can't go wrong with either SB Acoustics or Scan-Speak.

As stated elsewhere, the clue that the seller doesn't know what they're doing lies in the inadequately sized port. If the OP just wants four Trace 10-inch drivers, there's a set currently on Ebay for £60.