stevie

The problem with filling the hole first is that you need a filler that will grip and hold the t-nut when you reinstall it. I'd be worried that the Araldite would crack under pressure, although I'm not speaking from practical experience here. My choice would be to use Araldite to glue the t-nut in place. Just be very careful not to allow any glue onto the threads of the t-nut and make sure it's accurately aligned. If it fails, you could always fill the hole with fibreglass filler or bodyfiller or even Araldite and use a wood screw (predrill first).

Do I sense someone angling for a free cab?😀

@cetera - Bass Collection Betsy, ESP Surveyor '87, Fender FSR PJ Precision, Squier 40th Precision, Hamer Impact, Spector NS2, Spector Euro LX, Spector Euro Classic, Spector EuroX (Spectorbird), Spector Legend 4X, Spector Pulse II, Spector Dimension 4HP, Gallien Krueger 400RB, 700RB-II & Legacy800 heads, GenzBenz Neox 2x12 cab @TheGreek - All short scale this year - a @Jabba_the_gut scale 5er, Mini Ray, Short scale P bass @Harlequin74 - Zoot Performer, Status Shark, Spector QV4 , Markbass TTE501 and Matching CAB. Maybe the Lehle Basswitch… @TrevorR- Mk 1 Wal, Wal Pro IIE, Aria SB700, Frankenjazz, pedals and MarkBass LMII & Traveler 2x10 @bnt - travelling light, probably a couple of pedals such as T-Rex Diva Drive, Orange KongPressor @bass_dinger - 1999 Washburn XB500, 1994 Washburn XB500, Washburn XB925 in zebrawood, Washburn XB925 in bits, Boulder Creek 5 string (likely to be for sale), SWR Workingmans 12. @prowla - Probably a couple of Rickenbackers and some interesting oddities. Amp-wise a Markbass EVO and a 1x12 (last year I bought some others to try and never switched them on, as the EVO sounded spot-on). @SuperSeagull - Status S2, Feline P Bass, Modded Fender Lyte, Flea Jazz, MB Combo @Merton - various short and medium scale ACGs, Zoots and Conway basses, Barefaced cabs, modern Trace Elliot amps @MacDaddy - Shuker (probably no3), Snapdragon Folding Bass, possibly a Rob Allen Mouse. @neilp - matching pair of fretted and fretless 1980 Aria SB1000s, possibly my fretless Wal mk1, Ashdown ABM500/Ampeg 4x10, Tech 21 Bass Fly Rig @NickD- Strunal Schonbach 5 String DB, and whatever else I can shoehorn in the car around it... hopefully a MD CMD121 H, Zoom B6, and maybe a Maruszczyk Jake and a Shuker Series 2. @WalMan - converted Wal Pro, Zon Legacy Elite, Status S2, G&L L2500 fretless, McMillen 12Step & DSI MoPho, Two Notes Bass Revolt, Trondheim Audio SkarBassOne, BackBeat2 (and my BackBeat1 will probably be available for sale). 16. Darkglass Microtubes500 and one of the Barefaced cabs. All depends how late I leave and what will fit in the new car 🚙 😁 @Smanth - With my small, light, battery powered gear (mostly) ... IBBY-Ibanez GSRM25 5 str sub short scale, 'ELIMA - Kala California 5 str fretless ubass, QUINN- HB 5 Str Fretless, MOD Dwarf based pedalboard, Boss Dual Cube Bass LX. (Also some toys to sell) @Jean-Luc Pickguard - NS Design CR5M, Squier Bass VI, Roland MicroCube Bass RX and some pedals. @tauzero- the basses that @TheGreekmade me buy (handmade 6-string headless, Pedulla 6 fretless), Roland GR-55, one or two Seis, anything else that occurs to me, Mrs Zero (probably) @rumblefish- Reverend Rumblefish, GB basses, Mesa Walkabout amp, Vanderkley 112 MNT. @bassace97 - Musicman stingray basses, Fender Mustang bass, Pedalboard and my Mesa TT800 + SL112 cabs @BillyBass - Reverend Decision P, Gallien-Krueger Fusion S1200 and Barefaced Midget @silverfoxnik - some basses and noise amplifying boxes. @Simon C : G&L L2000 Tribute, Sire V7 Fretless, Ibanez EHB1000S Headless Shortscale. Various pedals (switch, tuner, Hypergravity compressor, Laney 85 Bass Octave, Bass Clone Chorus, Spectradrive, Ditto+ looper pedal and a Bluetooth page turner). Carlsboro Colt Keyboard Amp. @Wolverinebass- Hamer Chaparral B12L, Tech 21 Dug Pinnick. Sideburns. Sarcasm. @GoodShowSir- Cake, lots of. @vz7- ACG (tbc) (as mentioned by @BillyBass) @Chimike- KK Baby Bass Traditional, maybe my Monique, Ampeg Heritage B15 head. @Kebabkid - a Sire S7 or S3 (4 stringers), Roland Cube 120XL and possibly a Zoom bass unit or HX Stomp. (Hopefully!) @HMX - Ray34 @chyc - double bass and my GSS 06b400mkd 6.5" combo @tubbybloke68 - lots of basses! @stevie - LFSys Monaco, LFSys Monza, plus new LFSys cab as yet unnamed. Veyron head and Squier CV Precision bass

@Smanth, the LFSys Monaco I'll be bringing with me is the same size as the BC112. The weight will depend on the wood you use, but you'll be able get an idea of how easy it is to carry. I'll be happy to answer any questions about your build.

Generally speaking, polypropylene capacitors are higher quality than polyesters, although they do tend to be bigger. There's no reason for polyesters to be more expensive - unless you're buying into the vintage component myth.

Thanks, guys. I've ordered a socket. Fingers crossed.

I'm going to try to get over to this. It looks like it's going to be busy. I'll bring some LFSys cabs, including a brand new model, together with a Veyron amp and Squier CV Precision. I'm looking forward to meeting all the familiar names I've read over the years but never met.

The flatpacks were a limited run, @Squitti. Since then, the cost of CNC woodwork has almost doubled. So they'd be quite pricey now. I am still supplying the occasional crossover on a nice fibreglass PCB. That seems to be the area that most builders struggle with.

For the purposes of acoustic gigs and home practice, a good quality ten-inch cab would certainly do the job - and be more convenient than a twelve. Of the three cabs mentioned, the Orange offers the best value for money IMO, as it's fitted with a good quality neodymium driver with decent power handling. On the other hand, it doesn't have a tweeter - so that might rule it out for the OP. The Ampeg costs considerably more than the others and is only rated at 200 watts - so not a very high spec. Depending on your needs, It could be enough - especially if you're a fan of the brand name. The Ashdown doesn't have neo drivers either but does have a tweeter and seems to offer good value - like most Ashdown products. The above is based purely on what the manufacturers say (and don't say) about their products. I don't think I've heard any of them personally.

Yes, it's an active bass - one of the premium models. I've always assumed that inserting the jack switches the preamp, but I haven't taken the jack out yet. There is a separate active/passive switch - so maybe not. If I do need a new jack socket, I'd rather have one to hand before I start.

The jack socket on my Ibanez bass occasionally makes a loud cracking noise through the amp when slight pressure is applied to the jack. I believe this is a common problem. Before I open her up I'd like to know if I'm going to need a replacement barrel socket or is this likely to be a simple soldering job?

Here's the frequency response of a 2x12 +horn bass cab from a respected US manufacturer. The red line looks fairly good, almost FRFR in fact, but you'll only ever hear that if your head is right in front of the cab. Move to the side or above and what you hear is shown in the off-axis curves - huge suckouts in the upper midrange! This is the main reason players complain they can't hear their bass clearly when playing live. You can see the tweeter coming in at around 5kHz to provide the boom-tizz sound we know and love. 😀 It's hardly surprising so many players switch them off. The solution (in a two-way system), as @Bill Fitzmaurice has pointed out, is a proper compression driver crossing over at about 2kHz or lower. With a carefully designed crossover, you can get a nice, smooth frequency respose that slopes gently towards the higher frequencies as you move off axis and counteracts the bass driver's tendency to die above 1kHz. The result a much more natural sound. Bassists playing through PA cabs already know what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of dedicated bass guitar cabs using this approach.

You're right - that's a great bass line - and I've definitely struggled with the triplets.

When they work, T-nuts are definitely a superior fixing, but they do demand a certain amount of Fingerspitzengefühl, as @Phil Starr has mentioned. I've fitted hundreds if not thousands of the things, and I still make the first couple of turns by hand - just to make sure. And I watch out for any unwanted resistance when I'm screwing them in. Because woodscrews are a lot more forgiving, I think i would probably recommend woodscrews with lock washers nowadays for self-builds. They can (and will) work loose, however, if you don't use lock washers. On my LFSys cabs, I use socket head machine screws and T-nuts. Although not absolutely necessary, I fit lock washers and also secure the T-nuts with staples from behind for extra security.

I'd use an angle grinder to do this, but I think it depends on what kind you have. The small, battery-powered ones with three-inch discs are quite controllable, and thin discs are available specifically for cutting (rather than grinding). The bigger grinders might be more unwieldy. The main thing is to wear eye protection. That's really important.

My sincere thank to @scrumpymike and his clan for organising another wonderful Bash. Everything went so smoothly, it's easy to overlook the amount of organisation that goes into staging this kind of event. The food was a highlight, of course, and the weather meant we could all eat lunch outside in the sunshine. Lovely! What a fantastic selection of basses to admire and try out! The early afternoon shootout seems to have become a regular event, and @Phil Starr's insightful comparison of a wide range of bass amps didn't disappoint. Hats off to @neepheid, who drove down from Aberdeen and - amazingly - completed the 550-mile return journey in one go in a car full of gear. It was also gratifying to see a fair number of Basschat DIY cab builds on display.

I've got a Rane graphic equaliser I don't need, a set of black bass tuners, and a compressor pedal.

Thanks for the plug, Dave. If you're going to the SW Bash again this year, you'll be able to try the LFSys Monza, which is basically a scaled-down version of the Monaco with a near-identical sound. I'll also be bringing the first of a new range of lightweight cabs, which were designed for bass guitar but could also be of interest to double bass players, as they're full range with a very smooth frequency response.

@Dan Dare's right. High-powered subs need to be crossed over actively. You can do it passively in theory, but the components needed to cross over at low frequencies are big, heavy and expensive - which is why active is the preferred solution.

1. Follow the colour coding for the tweeter wires. They're usually red and black. If you wire them the other way, you'll put the tweeter out of phase. 2. There shouldn't be a problem making a couple of holes in the baffle for the connection tabs. Nobody will see the holes you've drilled when it's covered by the tweeter. The main thing is that you don't introduce any leaks in the baffle. Stick a strip of adhesive foam around the tweeter to make sure it's sealed. 3. Ashdown normally use adhesive foam strip under their grilles. As @BassmanPaul says, you should be able to simply replace the grille on the old foam strip. If you'd like to replace the foam, you can get it in the width you need from Ebay or Blue Aran. 2mm thickness is usually right.

Where do we send the money?

May be interesting for some. https://www.proavl-asia.com/details/73643-b-c-speakers-acquires-eminence-speaker

Agreed. Having carried out a/b comparisons of plastic vs wooden cabs, I think the difference (when reproducing solo bass guitar) is bigger than most people suspect.

I sold Mike a pair of Kappalite drivers a couple of years ago and forgot to mention it here. I'm putting that right now. Everything that's been said so far is true. Great guy to deal with.