27 frets

[quote name='ficelles' post='1151288' date='Mar 6 2011, 11:11 AM']Bridges with built-in pickups: I know these exist for violin, worth looking at for double bass or money wasted? ficelles[/quote] Fishman Full Circle double bass pickups are built into a bridge adjustment wheel - they have a good reputation, but aren't cheap and are best fitted by a luthier. Other DB pickups either clip or fix onto the bridge, into the bridge wings or under the bridge foot, depending on model.

Hi According to Wikipedia, citing: A Brief History of the Double Bass, Lawrence Hurst, Professor of Double Bass, School of Music, Indiana University "The names contrabass and double bass refer the instrument's range and use in the contra octave below the cello, also called the 16' octave relative to the church organ." That was my understanding too - it's all about the pitch/range. The same applies with wind instruments, with the contrabasson/double bassoon sounding octave lower than a bassoon, due to double length of tube (though it's curled up)

[quote name='symcbass' post='1081769' date='Jan 8 2011, 05:13 AM']Long shot, but worth a try, looking for a 3/4 double bass fingerboard with or without Romberg level, must be in good condition Rosewood or ebony only thanks.[/quote] For quality ebony, you could try Klier in Germany (my Gedo Musik bass has one of theirs fitted): no prices listed though. [url="http://www.klier-josef.de/index_us.html"]http://www.klier-josef.de/index_us.html[/url]

Hi Just ordered one from here: [url="http://musical-instrument-suppliers.co.uk/bassaccs.htm"]http://musical-instrument-suppliers.co.uk/bassaccs.htm[/url] only £15 for semi-rigid, £47.95 for rigid I'll let you know what the £15 version is like

[quote name='Mike' post='1049216' date='Dec 6 2010, 01:01 PM']Something I'm struggling with is the bowing. I find the bow quite heavy and have to keep putting it down after each excercise which lasts a few minutes. Sometimes I don't get a good sound which I think I'm putting down to not enough pressure on the strings.[/quote] Bowing is definitely something which improves with experience and practice, and the tone you get isn't entirely down to what you're right hand/arm is doing, it's about grip, posture, how tense or otherwise you are, where and how you bow the strings, how you're fingering with the left hand.... What kind of bow are you using? I guess French type if you're learning with Tony, as he doesn't seem too into German bows, but what's it made of, and how heavy? The bow that came with my bass was quite heavy (around 150g) and not very good at all - as my playing progressed I found my stamina gradually built up, but the tone still wasn't great. Things definitely picked up when I bought a better and lighter carbon fibre bow (I think it's the same as Jennifer's/Endorka's), possibly a better bet at that stage than going for pernambuco, which can be more fragile. Tony liked it enough to ask where I'd got it, as another of his students was looking for a reasonable bow for pit playing, not wishing to endanger her more expensive pernambuco bow. You're welcome to get in touch to give mine a try. Peter

Hi Mike We have a lot in common. I too live in Chelmsford and took up DB a couple of years ago, after years on bass guitar, having lessons with Tony - he's an excellent teacher, and he will really help with your technique: it's better to learn it right than 'unlearn' poor technique. I've lacked time for lessons recently, which has been a pity. I've also joined a local orchestra - nothing too serious, but great for developing ensemble skills (and counting bars rest!). I'm on my own there on DB, so some company there would be nice once you're feeling confident enough! It would be good to meet up sometime - send me a PM if you're interested. Regards Peter

[quote name='Mama Hong' post='987133' date='Oct 13 2010, 04:46 PM']Hi I'm looking for a better bow - ideally an old one with history. Mine is a £60 student one, its done me good but I want to move up a notch. My budget stretches to about £200. If anybody knows of any for sale or a good stockist in the country it would be great to get some advice... Cheers Sam[/quote] Have a look at the YitaMusic bows on eBay - I have their best carbon fibre model, just over £100, and it's pretty good. Endorka on BC also has the same model They also do pernambuco bows for similar prices

Try Yitamusic on eBay - Others on Basschat have recommended their carbon fibre bows, and I have one too, but they also do brazilwood and pernambuco bows at good prices.

[quote name='BigBeatNut' post='911615' date='Aug 1 2010, 02:00 AM']That does look very, very, similar. Thanks.[/quote] I've got one of those which come in both single and double versions (as shown on the ebay link) - the single one on the bass looks the same to me

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='909686' date='Jul 29 2010, 09:49 PM']The problem is that when you drop the frets, you end up with a fretless with a really high action (for some!). G.[/quote] It looked to me that the fingerboard pivots up using the lever at the body end, rather than all the frets going down, - so it would keep the low action. But the question of how level the fingerboard would be where the frets are is one to ponder, would dips/divots matter if you don't press down too hard? The 8 string EEAADDGG neck suggestion sounds bizarre, not sure I could handle a neck that wide with up-down-up-down-up-down-up-down frets - would all feel a bit jagged! Would someone care to experiment?

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' post='903675' date='Jul 24 2010, 12:05 AM']I'm also interested in this topic, but for slightly different reasons. I am being assessed for neurological problems which cause the ball of my thumbs to go into cramp after about two minutes of gentle gripping. I can probably work around that in my fingering hand by adopting a sloppy technique and putting the palm of my hand on the back/far edge of the neck, but a french bow gives me problems. Is a german bow likely to be better for me? I've had a year off, and at the moment I am just trying to get back into bass guitar playing, and my EUB is still packed away. I'm coming round to the idea that I may never be much good, but I may still have fun at my level. All comments gratefully received. David[/quote] When I took up DB again last year, my right hand used to cramp up terribly after even a few bars playing with a French bow, particularly as my right thumb seems 'double jointed'. I'd wondered about a German bow, but my teacher encouraged me to persist, as in his view much of the cramping actually comes down to how relaxed you are as a whole when playing - hand, wrist, arms, posture and everything. This has paid off, and I can play longer pieces fine now using the French bow, with few of the cramping problems. My teacher's views on the merits of French bows over German are as others have commented previously.

Which part of Essex? It's quite a big place!

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='872719' date='Jun 20 2010, 04:20 PM']That's the best price I've seen. Bloody hell though...[/quote] Buy the strings separately from the Stringmail site rather than as a set - and save yourself 10p! No logic to that

[quote name='bob_pickard' post='867104' date='Jun 14 2010, 03:25 PM']check out www.gedo-musik.de as well - they have a good reputation apparently, I had some replies to my post on here a few weeks ago about them - and they say they're luthiers although you'll probably need some stuff doing to it when you get it[/quote] +1 on that I have one of their solid wood models, which cam well set up, but they told me this about their product range: "First of all, we are working as wholesaler since 1964 in Germany and export to more than 70 countries around the globe. Right, the cheapest one (approx. 450 Pounds) is all laminate construction, but with proper ebony fingerboards the basses are Made in China and Korea - finishing will be made by our own workshop with 3 violin-makers. We generally use "normal" steel strings and bridges to be fitted by ourselves. If you have special requests for better grade, etc., we would be glad to have your corresponding disposal. Basses in the range of Pounds 630-650 are Made in Korea and Czech, same with the bridge, solid spruce top, ebony fingerboard. The solid wood models are Made in Czech and improved by our workshop. They are delivered with German fingerboards, good quality strings and Aubert bridge, upon request."

Try Hartke Hydrive 112C, 210C or 115C Combos - compact, powerful (250W), with compression and versatile toneshaping. My 112C works even better with Fishman Platinum Pro preamp - definitely gives enough low end.

[quote name='Bilbo' post='858098' date='Jun 5 2010, 12:35 PM']I am listening as we speak to Edgar Meyer's Unaccompanied Cello Suites performed on the Double Bass and am loving it. Has anyone any recommendations for other arco recordings by top drawer players. Classical preferrably, solo would be good. Not a lot of great arco jazz out there (Stewart and Chambers excepted).[/quote] I've got that Edgar Meyer CD too, but for something more lighthearted, you could try the London Double Bass Sound - DB ensemble pieces This features everything from 'L'Elephant' to 'Carmen' to 'When I'm Sixty Four' to 'Wannabe' - great fun! Also, search for 'Octobass' on Youtube - their repertoire includes Deep Purple and Beatles covers, plus classical pieces.

[quote name='Conan' post='854462' date='Jun 2 2010, 08:57 AM']I'm finding the tweeters in my two Ashdown MAG 410s a wee bit on the aggressive side, and was wondering if it is possible to disconnect them without affecting the impedance of the cab or the functioning of the ten inch drivers? There is no tweeter control on the cabs - they are permanently in the "on" position![/quote] Should be no problem disconnecting the tweeters, as others have commented - what about leaving one of the two cabs with tweeter connected to tone down the effect? Alternatively, you could add a switch to connect them in and out, or even an on-off-on switch with a series resistor (eg 15 ohm) connected for one of the 'on' positions to reduce tweeter output level. A suitable (wire wound) potentiomenter is the other option for adjusting level, but it needs reasonable power capacity so as not to burn out (ditto for series resistors)

I've got a problem with my Indie 6 string bass and the induction loop. It picks up the loop signal (radio mics and lectern mics used for speech only) and then amplifies that through my bass amp causing feedback that way. I tried changing the soapbar pickups (from Indie own brand to Wilkinson) but that made no difference. The control cavity looks well screened with copper tape (better screening than some of my other basses), so I can't figure out why this bass is particularly suceptible to this when the other basses aren't. Any ideas?

[quote name='malcspring' post='848770' date='May 26 2010, 06:26 PM']I am new to the bass guitar, but am looking to take up the 5 string. I do need some advice as to the type of combo that will fit my needs. I know that the low b runs at a frequency around 30 hz and as such I will be needing a combo that can comfortably handle this without "farting, distorting". To complete my rig, I was looking at the American Fender Jazz 5 string, or the Music Man Sterling 5 string. I was then going to use for practice in my spare bedroom, so do not need something huge. Just good enough to handle the frequencies.[/quote] The Hartke Hydrive combos are compact, powerful,handle the bottom end and have a 'kickback' feature for close up. I've got a 112c which is fine, so the 115c would probably do the job even better.

I had a right handed version similar to the 1981 model - fretless, bought used. Pretty heavy. I added a thumbrest too. Tried it as a fretless for a while, but couldn't get a 'woody tone', so rather than getting rid of it, I went for getting frets put in. Luthier was rather surprised to find fingerboard was not actually ebony but phenolic resin (though it even looked like it had wood grains), which didn't do much for his cutting blades! Perhaps that fingerboard was some experimental phase in construction. Tone controls were a bit unsubtle, but it was early days for active EQs. Nicely made basses though, 'by the proud craftsmen of Ibanez' as I recall - I traded mine up in 1995 for a Carvin LB75.

I had a red LB75, slightly newer, s/no 29292, bought used from Bass Centre in 1995. (I traded it p/x in 2008 for an Indie 6 string), Carvin's made to order approach and changes over the years throws out all sorts of variations. Mine had J-type pickups, with all those coil taps and phase switches, but no trem (would I use it??). I agree about the big piano-like tone, particularly with both pickups on. 5 in a row headstock was a liability (I kept bashing it!), and it was hard to reach the G machine head for tuning. They changed to a 3+2 arrangement in later models - sensible. Through neck and ebony board are impressive, and 2nd hand values tend to be low, so they do make a good quality buy for the money.

[quote name='Bilbo' post='835337' date='May 12 2010, 02:51 PM']I have seen these and they look visually interesting but it seems we are all caught up in this mythology around new and 'cheap' basses (i.e. anything under £2K - when did that sum start meaning cheap? ). 'Buy an old bass and get a luthier to work on it', says everyone. Oh and that'll be another £600. But then someone else tells us that they bought their bass for £350, changed the strings and now its got a massive sound Add all the 'ebay horror stories' to the list and we are all left incapable of making a decision!! Can anyone she any light on these Gedo basses and put us 'newbies' out of our misery? [/quote] I can't speak from expereince of their cheaper models but I have one of their 'Solid State' basess i.e. all solid wood - cost around £1500. Came with a decent soft case and basic bow, shipped to me in 4 days - good service. I've already posted various comments and several pix on this on another thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=77602&pid=766332&st=20&#entry766332"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...mp;#entry766332[/url] (several posts from March 2- March 6 as you scroll down). Also gives the info that Gedo Musik gave me on the quality of the different basses in theri range, so I won't repeat myself. If it's not enoughthat I like the bass, my teacher was pretty impressed at what I'd got for the money, and he should know - he's principal bass at Covent Garden and a Professor at the Royal College - the bass sounds much better when he plays it!

Demand and prices for vintage amps can be pretty high, though it's always a question of supply and demand. I put an early 1970s Hiwatt 200 on eBay and got interest from international and UK buyers - it sold for about £750 (new one were about £1400 at the time, but the price is much more now) Ampeg SVTs are more powerful (300w), and arguably more prestigious, though perhaps less more plentiful. If it's in good working order, and the condition is as described, I reckon you may be looking at around £1000, but a 'collector' may be willing to pay more. Even the valves inside cost a fair bit! As others have noted, I guess for any buyer there's a trade-off between getting a genuine vintage model, and buying the current version with warranty etc.

From my understanding of impedences of different speakers etc across the frequency range, Phil Starr (above) gives a pretty accurate description, i.e that the impedence only drops to the 8 ohms at high frequencies due towhatever circuitry there is in the bright box, and the characteristics of the high frequency drivers themselves, whereas the impedence of the main speaker rises at high frequencies. Same applies if you add a piezo-electric tweeter to a speaker system, though with that an attenuating resistor would usually be added too.

[quote name='iconic' post='729424' date='Jan 30 2010, 08:03 AM']I notriced Hartke aren't on your list, there maybe a reason for this? But the Kickback 15 is in your budget, Hartke gets a very good rep most of the time.[/quote] I've just bought a Hartke Hydrive 112C from Academy of Sound - just £355 online purchase (new), which is at the top end of your budget range. I think Bass Merchant have the Hydrive 115C for about £100 more (probably out of your price range), but there's a used one on eBay too at present. Good power output at 250watts through the internal speaker (no option of an extra cab though). Even the 112C seems to sound fairly crisp with the low B of a 5-string at moderate volume -I haven't tried it flat out though. Tone shaping possibilities are pretty impressive, but I found just using the treble and bass contour controls enough to get a good sound quickly. Solid build, so not particularly light to carry around - side carrying handles would have been better than one on the top. Moderately compact though - at the current prices they seem really good value. Apparently there was a change in UK distributor and Academy of Sound bought up some of the old stock, before Korg took over distribution. With the 'kickback' feature (like some of the other small Hartke combos) you can have the sound projected upwards, which can be useful in hearing yourself.