27 frets

[quote name='merello' post='805088' date='Apr 13 2010, 05:28 PM']Built like the Tour Eiffel with frets like railway lines! Superb. 20 year old Guild![/quote] I think Nathan East played something similar (but fretless?) on the Eric Clapton 'Unplugged' show/album

[quote name='Sarah5string' post='796377' date='Apr 5 2010, 11:15 AM']Planning on going to see a fellow BCer's shop tomorrow to try a Hartke Hydrive 115 out. Just wondering what people's opinions/experiences of them are I play 5 string bass B-G and am going through a Gallien Krueger backline 600 (300w) Thanks in advance! [/quote] I've just bought a Hartke Hydrive 112C from Academy of Sound - just £355 online purchase. I think Bass Merchant have the Hydrive 115C for about £100 more, and there's a used one on eBay too at present. Good power output at 250watts through the internal speaker (no option of an extra cab though). Even the 112C seems to sound fairly crisp with the low B of a 5-string at moderate volume -I haven't tried it flat out though. Tone shaping possibilities are pretty impressive, but I found just using the treble and bass contour controls enough to get a good sound quickly. Solid build, so not particularly light to carry around - side carrying handles would have been better than one on the top. Moderately compact though - at the curent prices they seem really good value. Apparently there was a change in UK distributor and Academy of Sound bought up some of the old stock, before Korg took over. With the 'kickback' option you get the sound projected upwards, so it could also be useful as a floor monitor linked to another amp for those running bigger rigs.

[quote name='jim_at' post='804667' date='Apr 13 2010, 11:00 AM']Hi, I'm not sure if anyone will know the answer to this but it's worth a shot! One of the valves has blown in my Hi-Watt bass custom 200 head, and upon replacing the valve with a new KT88 I have read I have to re bias the amp. I need to find out what the base plate voltage that the amp should be, how where / how to use the trim pot in the amp that I have to adjust to get it in the right range on a volt meter. If anyone has ever re biased an amp before and can offer any advice, I'd love to hear it. Thanks Jim[/quote] I'd contact Hiwatt, as they are building basically the same amps now [url="http://www.hiwatt.co.uk/contact.aspx"]http://www.hiwatt.co.uk/contact.aspx[/url] There is an option on that page for sending technical queries

[quote name='fretmeister' post='803634' date='Apr 12 2010, 12:45 PM']There seems to be a few giggable tilt-back combos about - Hartke, Mark Bass, GK What's good? I really like the idea so I get more use as a monitor and can easily see the controls. Are there others I should be looking at?[/quote] I've just bought a Hartke Hydrive 112C from Academy of Sound - just £355 online purchase. I think Bass Merchant have its big brother the Hydrive 115C for about £100 more, and there's a used one on eBay too at present . Good power output at 250watts through the internal speaker (no option of an extra cab though). Even the 112C seems to sound fairly crisp with the low B of a 5-string at moderate volume. Tone shaping possibilities are pretty impressive, but I found just using the treble and bass contour controls enough to get a good sound quickly. Moderately compact too - at the curent prices they seem really good value, even just to use as a floor monitor linked to another amp.

[quote name='Bucket Head' post='793572' date='Apr 1 2010, 06:23 PM']hi guys im making myself a bass body but im not gonna bother with the neck as i dont think i could handle it to be honest. just wondering if any of you know a decent place to buy a neck (other then the almighty ebay). also if u wanna give me some pick up advice, its quite welcome, i was thinking of 2 emg-35dc's with a emg btc preamp or maybe a emg bqs preamp system, however im not sure i want this i was thinking maybe i would like somthing more like a jazz bass....or music man i really cant decide atm too much choice so help me out cheers guys[/quote] Allparts do a range of finished and unfinished necks [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/allparts-guitar-amp-parts/necks/bass-necks-c-277_1_122_124.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/all..._1_122_124.html[/url]

By the look of the tailpiece and the peg box, the bass was originally a 3-string instrument (common in the past), which has been converted to a 4-string. The problems with the neck may relate to the extra trnsion from the 4th string, so some additional reinforcement may be needed as part of the refurbishment.

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='740611' date='Feb 10 2010, 08:35 AM']One thing I'm always on the lookout for is an unmarked fretless Precision, as not many of them seem to be out there.[/quote] How's this? [attachment=45819:DSC_0594.JPG] Mike Walsh (Zoot) put on a new ebony board on, to replace the original rosewood defretted fingerboard. Action is much better now, as the neck had always been a bit banana-shaped. It's really chunky neck now though (even by P-bass standards)- but I play double bass, so everything is relative, and you get used to it. Being a '70s body it's on the heavy side, but the black/translucent white colours work. The pick-ups are SDs: I fitted the extra J - not the neatest job, but there's a lot of flexibility with the switches on the pick-ups. The other bass is my Czech-made custom bass - however cool Precisions look, it definitely beats them in the looks department

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='787205' date='Mar 26 2010, 05:09 PM']I had no import duty or tax on my bow from them when i ordered it.[/quote] VAT should be payable on the cost price (not duty at that value level), but Yita Music put the value unreasonably low on the Customs declaration ($20 or so for a £109 cost price, inc. shipping) For my own peace of mind, I queried this with Customs, and subsequently paid the VAT on the bow - another £20 approx (based on the value after deducting their shipping costs)

If the pickups are regular humbuckers, it could be a question of how the two coils of each pickup are wired to the preamp. Wiring the two coils of each pickup in parallel rather than in series (or vice versa) may produce a different tone. It may even be worth trying a coil tap, so you're just using a single coil, to get a brighter tone (though the hum may increase). Also, do check that there aren't any capacitors wired to the controls, acting like a passive tone control, and rolling off the top end. I had a capacitor fitted to a bass of mine by a luthier during a set-up 'to cut down on noise' - but unsurprisingly it cut the top end too! I have another bass with a very 'woody' tone, due to a heavy mahogony body, and found that using the Aguilar 3-band EQ and scooping out the mid frequency (with the lower of the two mid frequencies selcted) cleaned it up a lot. A 2 band EQ doesn't give that possiblility though

[quote name='umph' post='769736' date='Mar 9 2010, 09:07 PM']it shouldn't burn the power transformer out, unless it was really underrated as is. You'll pull just as much current cranking a guitar through it unless you were really pushing some serious low end. your only concern should be the speakers you play through.[/quote] It was only a 30w combo (this was a long time ago), and it worked better once the transformer had been upgraded. The speakers I was using had power capacity to spare.

[quote name='0175westwood29' post='769592' date='Mar 9 2010, 07:18 PM']im still getting my dual rig together but im thinking bout grabbing a combo amp to give some edge to my tone. ill put the my effects thru it, and then i can put more bass into my aggie 610hlf rig. but ive been told not to try this as i'll just be wasting money? and replacing speakers all the time but rob from metallica has mesa dual rec's in his bass rig? and also so does the girl from clatter! andy[/quote] I've tried it in the past with an old Selmer valve combo, and the transformer actually burnt out before the speakers did - basses need a lot of power at the bottom end (most of the power is in the fundamental, not spread across the audio spectrum), so basses drive the amps and speakers harder than a guitar would to get the volume. If you're talking guitar combos, the cabinet design is also often wrong - open-backed or sealed, rather than tuned and ported like a proper bass cab, so yuou lose bottom end power/projection too. The high tec solution to using a guitar amp with bass is to use it as part of a bi-amped rig with a crossover, so you're only using it for the high frequencies, and then using a good bass amp+cab for the low end rumble.

[quote name='BigBeatNut' post='768017' date='Mar 8 2010, 02:29 PM']Just noticed Sandarc and Martyn Bailey must be within a few miles of each other. Coincidence ? Or is there a relationship ? Looks like a nice day out to visit both anyway [/quote] Looks like they're now in the same village - Sible Hedingham, just on the Essex/Suffolk border, though I've never visited either

[quote name='jamiesonk666' post='767315' date='Mar 7 2010, 09:13 PM']Hi Ive just posted a message in the wrong part of the forum . I have '70s P bass I need help in valueing and ageing [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=79997"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=79997[/url] please have look and let me know. thanks jamie[/quote] It looks like the early 1970s version with the bold TV logo on the headstock - S.No will be 6 digits on the 'F' stamped neckplate Late 1970s version had the S.No , with S for '70s on the headstock, e.g. S8***** for 1978, with slightly smaller lettering for the PRECISION BASS, lighter varnish and a plain 'F' stamp neck plate. Any other type of serial numbers means it's the current reissue version with 'TV' logo, but these tend to have lighter wood/varnish, (or it's not wholly original/ fake).

[quote name='WonderHorse' post='767796' date='Mar 8 2010, 12:18 PM']Still none the wiser after reading that article since the article was written for people who already have a knowledge of this sort of thing. Would I be able to get this shielding done at a shop or when I get my bass set up soon?[/quote] Allparts/Axesrus sell the shielding material: [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsWire.htm"]http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsWire.htm[/url] A shop/luthier should be able to do it though Also might be worth checking that the earth connection from the jack plug is properly connected to the bridge/strings - a wire should be routed from the control cavity to the bridge, then the wire makes contact under the bridge At a basi c level check that the connections on your lead and guitar are the right way tround - earth being anything you can touch, e.g the shield of the jack plug (not the tip) the outside of the jack socket and potentiometers, internal screening, bridge etc. If you get a multimeter and plug in a jack lead, there should be a 0 ohm conection to anything that should be earthed on the bass from the SLEEVE of the other jack plug, and a higher resistance for the connection to the TIP of the plug (with the volume turned up), if it's 0 ohms to the tip, one of the connections is probably the wrong way round.

[quote name='geoffbassist' post='766926' date='Mar 7 2010, 02:49 PM']Oh, the reason I've not put this in items wanted is I wanted this to be a broader discussion about luthiers etc and what's out there for all uk bassists.[/quote] There are good reports around Martin Bailey, and he sells and repairs various basses: [url="http://www.mjbl.co.uk/"]http://www.mjbl.co.uk/[/url]

[quote name='geoffbassist' post='766926' date='Mar 7 2010, 02:49 PM']Oh, the reason I've not put this in items wanted is I wanted this to be a broader discussion about luthiers etc and what's out there for all uk bassists.[/quote] I guess you may be looking at something better than the Gedo Musik basses - see my input/pics on this thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=77602&pid=766332&st=20&#entry766332"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...mp;#entry766332[/url] but you're welcome to pick my brains on these. otherwise, has anyone got any comments on the Kremona basses? [url="http://www.sandarac.co.uk/rangekremona.html"]http://www.sandarac.co.uk/rangekremona.html[/url] (European made, not to be confused with Cremona - Chinese!) Their UK imports are connected with: [url="http://www.oakdenemusicservices.co.uk/"]http://www.oakdenemusicservices.co.uk/[/url]

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='766034' date='Mar 6 2010, 01:51 PM']That is one awesome looking bass.[/quote] Thanks It's been said that one person's custom bass may not another person's choice, but this one is very easy on the eye. And for the Big Red X comments too "It looks realy elegant next to the clunky Fender." - shame really, but I agree, I'm very fond of the Precision though, which has a semi-translucent white body (not a common colour), through whiich you can see the ash grain almost like a zebra stripe, and the white/black effect works with the fretless ebony fingerboard.

[quote name='TPJ' post='766014' date='Mar 6 2010, 01:17 PM']Do you have any other links to the website or ebay. [url="http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://gedo-musik.de/cms/produkte.php&prev=/search%3Fq%3DGedo%2BMusik%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&twu=1&usg=ALkJrhjBHP9vmUK5-QizXmDzB3fWJsGakg"]All I came up with is this.[/url] Be interesting to see their stuff.[/quote] In fact, nearly all the new double basses on www.eBay.co.uk are from Gedo Musik (those labelled 'from Germany'), but they do come in three grades Here's what I was told last year: "First of all, we are working as wholesaler since 1964 in Germany and export to more than 70 countries around the globe. Right, the cheapest one (approx. 450 Pounds) is all laminate construction, but with proper ebony fingerboards the basses are Made in China and Korea - finishing will be made by our own workshop with 3 violin-makers. We generally use "normal" steel strings and bridges to be fitted by ourselves. If you have special requests for better grade, etc., we would be glad to have your corresponding disposal. Basses in the range of Pounds 630-650 are Made in Korea and Czech, same with the bridge, solid spruce top, ebony fingerboard. The solid stade models are Made in Czech and improved by our workshop. The price of 1500 Pounds is very fair. They are delivered with German fingerboards, good quality strings and Aubert bridge, upon request." I was very impressed by their service, and you can return the bass if you don't like it.

[quote name='TPJ' post='766014' date='Mar 6 2010, 01:17 PM']Do you have any other links to the website or ebay. [url="http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://gedo-musik.de/cms/produkte.php&prev=/search%3Fq%3DGedo%2BMusik%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&twu=1&usg=ALkJrhjBHP9vmUK5-QizXmDzB3fWJsGakg"]All I came up with is this.[/url] Be interesting to see their stuff.[/quote] Try this: [url="http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=double+bass+solid&_sacat=See-All-Categories"]http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories[/url] and look for the German ones or [url="http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Gedo-Online-Musikshop_Kontrabasse_W0QQ_fsubZ303384013QQ_sidZ17832723?_nkw=kontrabass+massiv&submit=Search"]http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Gedo-Online-...p;submit=Search[/url] their non-solid double basses are easily found on www.eBay.co.uk too

[quote name='BigRedX' post='765690' date='Mar 5 2010, 10:36 PM']That looks pretty cool, love the contouring. For really extreme contoured bodies have a look at the basses of [url="http://www.lakidwell.com/index.htm"]L A Kidwell[/url][/quote] That Kidwell bass looks really interesting!

[quote name='Bassman68' post='765555' date='Mar 5 2010, 08:03 PM']I like it & for [b]that[/b] price it was an absolute steal. I would prefer some smaller machine heads & different control knobs but that's just personal choice...[/quote] It's not the machines that are big, as the headstock being small - see pics with my 1970s Fender below The chrome knobs fit with the other hardware - two larger for volume and pan, three slightly small for treble/mid/bass

[quote name='BigBeatNut' post='765597' date='Mar 5 2010, 08:43 PM']That's a lovely looking bass [/quote] Thanks It's got quite a nice big sound too

[quote name='Stingray5' post='765492' date='Mar 5 2010, 06:59 PM']Yeah, I like that. Very nice contemorary design and that body contouring adds that little bit more quirkiness. I'm assuming the contouring doesn't extend to the back side, but just to complete the picture, how about a couple of rear body/neck shots, if poss? [/quote] The back of the body is pretty flat, and the neck join could really be decribed as 'functional' - just 4 inset woodscrews (but I'm the only one that usually sees that). Ditto for control cavity cover, and lack of screening inside - no problems with hum though. See pic, and also here's how it was, with case prior to fret addition.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='765481' date='Mar 5 2010, 06:46 PM']Simple design but very nice curves on the body. Looks very comfy to play. Never played a 27 fretter before! One for the list of things to do :-)[/quote] Thanks - the body contouring works quite well, as does the neck profile, which is quite wide and flat. The bottom cutaway enables access to the top frets, and the the long top horn helps with balance for the relatively small (but thick in places) body. Other bases, like my Precision, now feel very chunky by comparison.

[quote name='josh3184' post='765473' date='Mar 5 2010, 06:42 PM']can't see any pictures?[/quote] Now with pics - I hit the wrong button