Delberthot

Another arty shot - the back this time Hmmmmmmm gold And the reason no other bass will ever be as good as this one - I went through 50 odd basses to find the components that I wanted in a bass. You've probably heard it all before but I don't care. Mahogany body from my 30th Anniversary Stingray & Epiphone Thunderbird Wenge neck & JAN III from my Warwick Thumb NT5 Ebony fretboard with no front markings from my Bass Collection SB565 SD Basslines pickup (albeit single coil rather than MM stylee) & Gotoh 201 bridge from my Modulus Flea Bass I chose the gold flake because my Flea bass had been silver flake and thought gold would look better and more snazzy on stage. I can be quite vain sometimes and I have to say that I have not ever seen a bass nicer than this. Sure, it may not be everyone's cup of Earl Gray but there is nothing like it. The closest I have seen to it is the gold sparkle G&L ASAT which is still a million miles away in terms of everything apart from the colour. After just over a year, I am still experimenting with the electronics. I even had a Bartolini 2 band EQ in it over Christmas but prefer the passive sound. I was thinking of wiring the pickup to the jack next as I don;t use the tone control. I have also thought about either getting another Lollar pickup like the one I had in my other Warmoth or trying one of the split coils that SD & Fralin do. I believe that Sting uses the SD one in his '57 single coil. Suffice to say that I am 99% certain that the Corvette $$ 5 string will be up for sale very shortly. Lovely bass to play and very fast but can't touch the Warmoth in terms of looks and overall playability to me.

As you may have read in my thread over in the repairs section, I decided to paint the headstock of my gold Warmoth P bass to cover up a couple of holes and to allow me to fill in an area next to the nut that I'd damaged while trying to get a JAN III to fit. Being an impatient bugger, I decided to put it back together today rather than wait a bit longer to make sure that the paint was hard enough. I took some pictures to finish my thread and decided to do the whole bass: The new shiny black headstock: An arty shot for all the buffs out there

There's not such a huge difference in hardware these days. My chrome on the bridge of my first bass started peeling off after a year. Also, I don't believe that there's a huge difference between made in Japan and made in China any more

It was an absolute monster and weighed as much as a small village. The damage that you see on it occured when it was being shipped from the US. The bit you can see is through to the wood but its a solid bugger. the strings I have for sale here were intended for that bass but I realised that 12vers were not for me before they arrived. I bought it for something silly like £70 plus postage.

That's it. I had my other warmoth wired direct to jack and it was very bassy with little treble. That's why I thought that should be wiring a cap in doing it this way. I am looking for full teble

Check out the thread over in the builds section. I'm sure Alex will be along soon with more info. I'm very tempted myself with a couple of new cabs he has in the pipeline. I personally use a Schroeder 1212L which replaced 2 ABM115 cabs and is just as loud as them, no, louder. Just not as much low end due to the size of the enclosure.

For painted bodies I use colour magic car polish. Don't know if they still make it. Its dark blue stuff I have and most of my basses have been dark colours. Wenge & Ebony gets 000 grade steel wool to lift off the gunk and make them smooth again. Rosewood gets lemon oil Tarnished frets get steel wool as well. Chrome just gets a clean, dry cloth unless its really gunked up where it'll get brasso or something like that. Stained bodies badly in need of a clean get Servisol Foam Cleanser. It puts the lotion in the basket or else it gets the hose. All work and no play make Homer something something Jazz isn't dead. it just smells funny

I believe that unless a bass a fault such as a stuck truss rod or something that doesn;t allow you to set up an instrument, you can gig with anything. I did several gigs with one of these: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-Metallic-Electric-BASS-JAZZ-style-gigbag-Strap-NEW_W0QQitemZ320331959198QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar?hash=item320331959198&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-Metallic-Electri...34.c0.m14.l1262[/url] At the time the exchange rate was much better so £35 for the bass and £50 for postage. the first one arrived damaged so they sent me another. This now works out at £42.50 for each one. Basswood body, so no ply rubbish here. Came with an electronic tuner, string winder, a spare set of strings and the second one also arrived with a suede Fender strap. I would recommend one of these as a spare bass. I personally don;t see the point in spending a lot on something that will get used once in a blue moon. As long as its playable.

That used to be mine - weighs a ton

My main bass for the last year and a bit has been my Gold Warmoth. Its good looking, really good to play & sounds amazing. I've been mucking about with it for the past couple of months trying different electronics, briefly went active, have just finished spraying the headstock black so it will be out of action for a while. I'm also planning on changing the pickup and stuff again. I enjoy it and don;t think that i will ever sell it. But - After a gig and a couple of practices with the corvette $$ 5 string - I;m now finding that i can play stuff on this that would be almost impossible on the gold bass. Not to mention that i can play rediculously fast yet still clearly hear each note. There are a few things that annoy me about it so it won;t be around forever but either a bubinga Corvette or Streamer stage II will be my next choice. Definitely 5 strings. The thing is that I only like having 1 bass at a time. If I have 2 or more, the others get cast aside or sold and I'm scared that this will happen to the gold one in favour of its more modern counterpart. It really is a fantastic bass but the Warwick is light years ahead in terms of playability and tone. But I can also look at it as am I really adding anything to the music by being able to play as fast as i can with the Corvette, does the sound fit in with everything that i do and am I better off with the simpler, slower Warmoth? This is the dangerous time of year for me as when I'm not gigging as much i tend to start buying and selling basses. Luckily for me I have absolutely no money to start buying so I would only be able to either sell one or both basses or trade one or both basses against something else. What was the question again? Oh yes - During my bass buying and selling I have only ever regretted selling 2 - My Riverhead Jupiter that I used at 19 to record my first demo and my Ibanez SR1016 that went to someone on this forum. I#ve spent years trying to track the Headway down and can;t remember who has the Ibanez now. The point I'm trying to make is that you may find yourself selling your bass now but in maybe a year or so's time, you might look back after several bass buys and sales later unfulfilled and really wanting your original bass back. If I was you and had the money, I would put the streamer away and go out and try different stuff. That way, at least if you don;t find anything better, you've still got the one bass you know works or you. If you do find something then you can then think about selling the streamer

I bet the fool who sold you that regrets it now.

He's the classic big fat party animal with the Hawaiin Shirt

nae bother

If you think it is. [url="http://www.voxamps.com/amplug/"]http://www.voxamps.com/amplug/[/url] Damn it - I'm now thinking about getting one of these now that I've seen it

Deep fried mars bar?

I've tried this before but misunderstood what sound I'd be getting - ie the equivelant position of the tone control. I play with my volume up full and my tone control all the way round on my Warmoth- effectively rolling off all the bass. Is there a way to connect directly to a jack but have the sound exactly like this? There must be a way of wiring in a cap somewhere to achieve this sound. I'm far from being an electronics whizz so any help would be appreciated. Its in pieces right now while I paint the headstock so I have plenty of time

I've now got some pics of the painting in progress: The first one is after a couple of coats of primer - exciting eh? the second is after a couple of coats of black - I intentionally went for the visible grain look as something a bit different Here's the logo I chose - its just my initials - please note that this is sticker paper and not decal paper - what an arse I am This is after after about 5 coats of laquer - the decal/sticker isn;t as raised as it was initially. I plan on doing 15-20 coats so it should be pretty flush by then. Only thing now is that you can no longer see the grain I should be finished laquering by tea time. I'm doing a coat every 15-20 minutes. I'll then take the masking off after a couple of hours and leave it to cure for a couple of weeks before polishing and putting the hardware back on.

Yip - they make Warwicks seem featherweight by comparison. Both of mine have been Wesleys. As well as providing highest quality song it should also give good lucky with the noble art of the larruping etc etc etc

I would've thought that it would be worth less having been used with the Beautiful South? Once you factor in cleaning it to rid it of etc etc etc Sorry, I've always hated their music just ignore me.