wesfinn

I'm not 100% sure. It was something I was looking into when putting together my first stack circuit. I contacted dealers who had original 60 Jazzes that had apparently no mods . I'm only going by what they have said to me though so that might not be the case as they could of been removed, I've not been fortunate to have one in my hands to look into it further. The pots CTS make now are slightly different to what they were back then. they had slightly different values to the modern ones if I remember correctly.

Thanks guys! Means a lot that people are likeing my work!

[quote name='Sibob' post='879629' date='Jun 28 2010, 10:19 AM']Wes, out of interest, how are you getting on matching colours from the old Fender Custom Colour list?. Do you only have access to the popular ones, or are you able to fulfill any of those old colours? Cheers Si[/quote] Alright Si, hope your well mate. I can get any of the custom colours...heres a list Black, Olympic White, dakota red, fiesta red, sonic blue, daphne blue, surf green, sea foam green, shell pink, candy red, lake placid blue, inca silver, firemist gold, gold sparkle, taos turquoise, sherwood green, burgandy mist

the stack circuit is much better in my opinion. You have so much more control and though it does take a bit of output away from the pickups it just sounds amazing. Also it works amazingly well when used with the string mutes which is how it was intended to be used. When you here that you will realise why Don Randall named it the jazz bass. sounds very close to a double bass when played near to the neck. If you are changing to this circuit I recomend that you get the sweeping pots rather than notched pots that fender put on the RI's. these are not vintage correct and generally break pretty quickly. The circuit can be run hot with out the resistors here a circuit diagram for that, its just a bypass.

all laquers and paints are harmful if you breath in the fumes especially nitro so make sure that you do what ever you are doing in a well ventilated area and wear a mask with organic filters suitable for paint vapours. You can buy waterbourne laquer from tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk they can supply lots of paint types tho if you want poly you will need a gun and compressor to apply it.

Ritz studios in Putney is good. Quite pricey though.

also forgot to add that I'm temproarily chased out of the workshop by the giant wasps nest which some lovely pointless wasps have made in the wall cavity! I wouldn't mind apart from the fact that i'm allergic to wasp and bee stings! Should have it removed by next week hopefully! Until then I;m a bit scared of working there!

managed to get a couple of things done on the J. Not many photos unfortunately as I've been super busy. The lazy susan flip nails are placed in the correct positions to ensure stabilty while spraying. perfect weather for spraying Nitro at the moment, though I'm still struggling with having my spraying area and woodshop together. I am next in line to rent another unit when one comes up so I will have a dedicated spray shop with a dry back booth! A thinned sealer coat was sprayed to the body and then sanded back to the wood. I then run 2 phases of pore filling to ensure that the body has no pores remaining. this will allow a much thinner final film, giving much more natural tone. The flip nails were used up until 1962 when they changed over to hanging the basses from a stick screwed to the neck pocket (hence why on 62 and onwards basses and guitars having a masked area in the neck pocket. The purpous of the nails is so that once you have sprayed the front you can flip the body onto the nails to spray the back and sides. After another thinned misty sealer coat I begin applying the white blonde. I build it up with fast misty coats to the face and back. I shoot the sides slightly slower at 45 degree angles. this gives the sightly more opaque sides which was correct for 59 - 61. after a cople of coats note how the body colour mismatch is starting to look a lot better now.

Johns basses are great and I've always been inspired by his relicing work. I also make replicas out of love for the originals but I feel that there should be markings on the bass to state that it isn't what it may be mistaken for. You could always put the current years date on in the same style stamp. It's just worrying that someone may decide to sell this on to somebody as a Fender in the future for a very large sum of money and the buyer would be none the wiser and very much out of pocket.

most likely.

I agree with you there .though I make replicas myself I wouldn't go as far as stamping the heel! Infact I put markers in my basses to indicate that they are not originals. in about 30 years this will be in the market somewhere as an 'original' most likely.

looks all good to me!

is the truss rod adjustment at the headstock end or butt of the neck? If it is at the headstock end there may be a metal disc anchor sunk into the heel of the neck when you remove it from the body. with the truss rod nut removed you should be able to un thread the rod from the anchor disc and pull the rod out. As others have said if you are unsure whther the rod is broken then take it to your local repair guy or music shop who should be able to diagnose the problem first.

Changing a truss rod on a jazz can be simple or complicated, depending on the country of manufacture, age etc. what is the model age and country of manufacture and is it rosewood or maple fingerboard?

not really professionally repaired considering you can see the rout plugs through the finish...not very professional at all! More than likely that is this is a total bitza built from odd parts from ebay.Though could be a nice players bass if it goes for under a grand

Mark bass actually have the best reliabilty percentage out of any other brain I have know. Most companys have at least 5% of theyre products back for repair. Mark bass have around a 2% if I remember correctly. Proel are always very good at getting the amp fixed and back to new in a short turnaround time. If you bought the amp new then you shoudl of got a warrenty card to fill out with it. This extends the warrenty to 2 years which may help you out.

looks great in that colour!

I've been watching this..the neck is orginal though has some annoying issues such as where other machine heads have been installed have come through the front of the headstock. also he hasn;t strung it up so it could be a real dog. Im a bit unsure of the body could be anything really. the cavity rout is maybe a bit too sloppy. you would never know till you strip it to check for the pin dowels and see if there has been any routs filled in the past.

Next week expect some progress on this. Plan is to get the neck finished for fine sanding. I have decided to put jumbo frets on this bass as it is going to be for me. I can't get on with skinny's personally! If the weather is good I will also get some finishing going

I'd go with the shell pink out of those 3, the LPB looks too light in colour. I miss the the old dark LPB

Shell Pink Jazz basses are soooo nice....I might have to make one after seeing that pic!

This is something I always wonder....how many beat up 1960's fenders are just laying on a rubbish tip! My uncle is a binman he has found loads of cool instruments that have just been chucked, many with minor faults. He gave me a box of g7th capos that someone had chucked! there was about £120 worth!

[quote name='Spoombung' post='859654' date='Jun 7 2010, 11:05 AM']Do you mean this stuff? [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/Lacquers-and-Paint/Spray-Paints-and-Lacquers/Lacquers-and-Thinners/274-Clear-Cellulose-Sanding-Sealer/Detailed-product-flyer.html"]http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/L...duct-flyer.html[/url] I think it needs spraying on. Is there anything I can paint on then sand down (I think the wood is basswood).[/quote] Thats the stuff but you can buy it as an aerosol if you click the aerosols and spray paints section. its easy to apply