Fionn

I’m after some advice regarding a bass I recently inherited … a vintage 4001 (made in 1976). My post is a bit long-winded, so please bear with me. It’s funny that I ended up with this bass, as I’ve always had a particular dislike for Rickenbackers. They’re literally the furthest thing from my traditional basses of choice (Warwick) … yet here we are, haha. I’ll never part with this as it’s a family heirloom. My uncle bought it new in 1977 when he moved to San Francisco to pursue a career in music, and played it the whole time since. However, the bass is not destined to gather dust either. It will most definitely continue to be used in battle, so there are some (reversible) changes I’d like to undertake in making it mine. I know that for many the only way forward would be to source original vintage replacement parts, though that’s not my aim here. My questions are as follows … The Bridge: Currently there’s a non-original bridge which doesn’t give me the range of intonation for the strings I want to use (the ‘E’ saddle is all the way back already). I’m considering the Ric-specific Hipshot model as it’s well engineered with enhanced adjustment, but also the Allparts replica as it’s in line with the original aesthetic and has the mutes. I was wondering though … * Is the Allparts replica prone to the same tail-lift as the original? * Is there a better option, or any other considerations that I’m not aware of? The Scratchplate: It appears to be non-original as a new set of holes have been drilled in the bass to accommodate it, and it doesn’t line up correctly (look how close it is to the edge beside the jack-socket!). • Where can I find a replacement with the correct dimensions and hole placement for a 4001 of this vintage? The Tuning Keys: Three are original, one is a Hipshot detuner. I’d like to replace them all. * Is there such a thing as a set of drop-in replacements (with correct hole spacing), that are NOT reverse geared, have a better gear ratio than the originals, yet have a similar aesthetic (black ferrules/ short stems) ? * If not, what are my options? Other than that, I removed the pick-up cover as it was in the way, but I’ll put a bezel in there so my thumb doesn’t get eaten by the dusty void. This is a wildly outlandish instrument to me but, despite its many quirks, there’s definitely ‘something’ about it that’s growing on me. It oozes mojo, sure … I’d never have imagined saying so, but I’m beginning to love it already. The photos are of the bass exactly as my uncle left it. He was a true Prog-Rocker, and a great player. It’s my desire that the bass should continue to be used and cherished … albeit with a few tweaks. Also, if anyone has any idea of the value (for insurance purposes), I’d be keen to hear it. Anyway, advice from those learned in things-Rickenbacker would be most gratefully received. Thanks 🙏🏻

Thanks for sharing your experiences folks. It’s all food for thought.

Stack is the new black

Folks … Has anyone brought back a bass from the USA whilst travelling? I have a trip to that county approaching imminently. Given the bargains available over the brine there, and the fact that I’m currently full of GAS, I’m open to the idea of bringing a bass home … possibly. Something that ‘should’ be declared upon arrival at whatever UK airport, clearly, so I realise that import tax should be evaluated. Has anyone just walked through unchallenged with one though? Is the whole thing a potential ball-ache, best avoided? What are your experiences with this? Cheers

I always use Parcelforce also. In the last couple of months I’ve sent two basses, an amp, and a whole bunch of other gear, with no problems whatsoever. I’ve probably sent and received a dozen basses over the last decade using Parcelforce, and never had any issues with them.

Just had a very smooth and easy transaction with Francis. All wonderful 🙂

Shaggy: Oh Carolina… “Oh Carolina! Prowl off, jump on prawns. Oh Carolina! Prowl off, jump on prawns. Oh Carolina, gal prowl off. Gal yuh, fi jump on prawns. Prowl off, jump on prawns …”

That’s funny. My mum has a story exactly the same as that. Dad, is that you?

You’ve opened a Pandora’s Box. Be wary, lest it consumes you, haha

The best cheap tuner available atm is a used Korg Pitchblack. They go for as little as £25 on the 2nd hand market, they’re very reliable and well built, good clear and bright display with multiple display modes, and detection accuracy within ± 1 cent (same spec as the most expensive top-end pedal tuners). It’s one of the most undervalued pedals doing the rounds at present. I just sold one for a paltry £30. The only reason I sold it (after a decade of reliable use) was to get the new Pitchblack with the switchable buffer. In terms of specification, functionality, and overall quality, I see this as the best tuner option for anyone on a budget.

I’ve been in covers bands in the past. Yes, we were parasites.

Here’s a photo of it with a 130. There were also two sets of brass saddles with mine, wide and narrow. Well designed to accommodate the suspension bridge cable string set …

A Hipshot Kickass 4 will take them. I just had a 4-string bass set up correctly in B-E-A-D with one. With the Kickass there are two sets of intonation screws, one set short, one set long. If you use the bridge B-E-A-D tuning, use the short screws and you’re fine. The tracks on the bridge are long enough to accommodate both tunings.

My current board… Buffer/ Tuner/ Mute at the front (with mutable parallel dry signal from the parallel output of the Paradriver) … Then stackable gain stages, Overdrive > Fuzz > Distortion (this board is all about the dirt really) … A touch of space (reverb) … Compression at minimal settings (only bites when digging clean and the dirt isn’t doing the compression) … End of chain EQ/ HPF/ LPF/ DI from the Q strip. This is essentially an ‘ampless’ set up. The front of chain dry parallel signal and end of chain DI both go to the desk, the other end of chain output for additional monitor (power amp/ cabs) if necessary.