3below

Same on some of mine, seems illogical given the rattling.

I use a 3u rackcase for Sansamp RB-1 and Crown power amp on top of a BF Dubster, with foam backed carpet between cab and case. As per @Maude's post, two problems have emerged during recent gigs: rattling catches and a resonating top panel. The former to be fixed by swapping the parts around so that the vibrating butterfly catches will be on the lids. The latter problem requires some heavy duty neoprene foam stuffed between the panels. This thread has reminded me I must get on the case before next Saturday.

What a great bass, more pics please. I built myself a short scale tele body bass aged 14/5 or so (51 yrs ago). Now long gone, lost when mother moved house and I was at University. Luckily one picture of me in my first band exists with it. I am reminded that like yours, my scratch plate was kitchen formica. All built with hand tools, the body was one piece elm coffin boards - given for free by the local coffin maker. Happy days.

I can highly recommend the small "premium quality" 3/8" post bass machines. Lightweight and an utter bargain, they are really very high quality kit. Retrovibes weigh 59g each. Not a direct comparison but I just weighed the 1/2" Hipshot USA Ultralights with clover key in my possesion - 55g each.

Take it out and use it, I use mine every week at rehearsals and gig with it. Really great bass to play. The one I don't use is the bubinga fretted Corvette, just too heavy

I retrofitted a Fane sovereign pro 8" into my baby Laney combo. The results are surprisingly good. Encouraged by this and the thread, my thoughts are on an angled (think Marshall 4x12 angled cab) 2 x 8". My reasoning is hearing myself better when standing right up against it on minute stages. Given that all the internal volumes, port sizes and bracing are ok, are there any downsides e.g. projection into the audience? Is the sovereign Pro worth £17 more than the Sovereign. The only significant difference in the specs (via Blue Aran) seems to be Le 1.2 mH vs 1.47 mH (even this could be manufacturing tolerance).

So many geo-political and socio-economic issues emerge in this thread. I really like USA kit (and UK /EU made kit), buying it keeps jobs here (or in the USA), I have done my bit for the USA. Even better when the sub assemblies (e.g. power modules) are locally made. However there is not much of a power semi-conductor or valve (Tube) manufacturing capability left in the UK though. As a hard pressed consumer the relentless cost efficiency of Chima / East Asian manufacture is a no brainer. I get to buy cheap high quality kit, at what long term cost though. Employment is reduced and the supply chain is dependent on others - political blockading? disruption?, parking a ship anyone?. @agedhorse your earlier post is on the money in so many ways. We can't have our cake and eat it.

Get someone reliable to assess the bass. I can highly recommend @Manton Customs, Robin advised me that the frets on my G&L SB-1 still had life in them however I chose to go ahead. Stainless frets fitted at a very sensible price and now a joy to play again. I would not hesitate to have Robin carry out work on my kit.

Plug the hole with some suitable sized wood (cocktail stick?) glued into the hole. Wait for glue to dry then drill new pilot hole for screw.

An Apple Lisa appeared in my Physics dept during my degree, 1981 ish? A long time ago. Happy days.

Great result, and apart from your time = the fun, very unlikely to build that without a speaker for £70.

Never mind what is Alt Rock, my life was changed when I watched some BBC? documentary, the moment of enlightenment was 'Yacht Rock', before that I was just listening to rock music...

110,000 miles on mine now, BF dubster, Bass amp,mixer, Singers LD PA system, stands etc, bags - all fit in the boot with the seats still up. @Phil Starr a really good informative read

I stripped my 77 P bass, the wood underneath was very good. As @Brucegill states, it should be easy to strip as time has done most of the work for you.

I only dealt with non functional and low / intermittent output ones. The piezo strip ideas are worth exploring, however the thickness might be an issue. Just made me wonder about drilling suitable size holes into a bridge foot and then gluing piezo cable or rods in.... hmm..... I also played with piezo film elements, likewise making a 'professional' package was difficult. Has got me thinking about the BC DIY DB pickup, must stop thinking, do not need any more stuff in my life!

My experience came from my own being intermittent. Eventually I took the 'nothing to lose here' approach and took it apart which eventually resulted in my understanding of the construction and how to rebuild. Subsequently I rebuilt / fixed a few for some BC members and summarised my experience in the thread quoted. Methods 1) and 2) are non destructive and free diy, they may or may not effect a cure for @MikeyMcMikeMike. Nothing to lose though . @sandy_r You are correct in your comment about the internal construction. It is very similar to the Takamine Palathetic pickup. I have thought about making my own diy Realist, very little skill needed. The biggest challenge has been finding small piezo elements at a sensible price. They are available but are ££.

Help is here (you may get lucky). https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/467506-fixing-faulty-realist-pickups/

Replacement neck was considered, however the magic was eventually worked. The price was very fair in relation to the instrument value. New fretboard, better quality rosewood and stainless frets. The end result is excellent. For something with a standard neck a replacement neck may well be more cost effective, equally well, your fretboard may not be damaged beyond repair and the costs could be lower.

With a single action truss rod the ultimate bad result of this situation is that the fretboard cracks and parts company with the neck. Personal experience with a USA bass, sorted by Jon Shuker and came back better than before.