.gif.9ad672bb8b84505709f76b39c8c256ec.gif)
crazycloud
-
Posts
284 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Everything posted by crazycloud
-
I'll be doing the annual local hippie collective night with my new SR375e and B3n next week, probably through my old Peavey Mk VI and 15 cab. I seldom use the amp/head any more as they're so heavy, but the hall is 100m up the road so it's no problem moving them on a furniture trolley.
-
Mine wasn't particularly light either, but it was a lovely bass and every so often I get a bit of nostalgia for it, but at the time I had maybe 50 basses and the 4s weren't getting played. The young guy who bought it has turned out to be quite a talent from what I'm told so it went to a good home and I'm happy about that. I've had a few of those, both race car and road bike and so far, haven't done any long term damage. My worst MVA injury was getting T boned by a truck at relatively low speed. The wife would have said back then I was an amateur stuntman for some of my exploits. It would have been an amazing experience doing stunts, I assume for movies/TV. Welcome back. I hope you have a lot of fun playing your Musician.
-
My recollection of my 924 was it was a bit on the heavy side, so my first thought reading that was I hope it wasn't the cause of your injury. I sold mine to a nice kid on ebay and he turned out to be in the next suburb. What a load of utter claptrap. I've had maybe 50 Ibanez basses, still have an old Blazer, an RB that my brother has, and currently 7 MII SR and BTB basses and I'd put any of them up against an equivalent from the MIJ era. Lots of nostalgia there, just like there is with people thinking all 70s fenders are suddenly good. My BTB is about the modern equivalent of the MCs, and if mine was a 4 and not a 6, I'd still have the BTB.
-
Neck width differences based on string spacing and nut
crazycloud replied to Ajoten's topic in Bass Guitars
Are you wanting someone to do the trig for you? Simplest is F12 is 1/2 the scale so the difference end to end can be guessed knowing the nut and bridge dimensions of a different bass, and comparing them to your SR, especially as Ibanez are nice enough to give F0 and F24 widths. How as bass feels in the hand to me also depends on the ergonomics of how it hangs on me as much as the raw neck dimensions. -
I've played classic rock, traditional R&B and blues for ages, and have never owned a P, nor felt the need for one. I played with a Steinberger for years and now with a 6 and either cover all the territory those genres require. I see no need for anything beyond what you already have.
-
Thanks for posting that again, I needed to be reminded. I'm a long time subscriber to FWW and have been scouring sites looking at other basses, as I'm coming into some money, when in reality I have all I need. A long scale 6 and my SRC6 cover everything I need and I have those. I have a PRS SE, a cheap but good superStrat and nice 6 and 12 acoustics so am covered on that front too.
-
Yes, I hate PGs (and control plates) and none of my main players have them. None. I don't see an advantage to one unless you're super agressive with a pick, which is certainly not me.
-
Just responded yes to the questionnaire.
-
Good idea, thanks.
-
My SRC6s work fine as either Bass VIs either tuned E-E or A-A. I might pony up for this P90 equipped HB.
- 105 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fender bass vi
- squier vi
- (and 18 more)
-
Not really. My first bass was an Ibanez and apart from the years when I played my Steinberger all the time (still had the Ibby) I've been an Ibanez player for 40y. My main basses are all Ibanezes now as the Steinie has been retired as it's too valuable to me to be used outside the house.
-
Based on the 70s Fenders I've owned and as a player's instrument, the Cort. Based on $ value the 72, but it would also depend on what it was insured for. I'd rather have my player and the insurance settlement for the 72. The only instrument I'd grab has sentimental value and can't be replaced for that reason.
-
Less than ideal, in what way? I'd put good money on most people, bassists included not being able to tell one bass from another in a mix, and often solo; see RIB13's recent video on P basses, and a large number of others I could post as well. Not to mention my own personal experience with this. Pickups are not rocket science and because they're inexpensive, doesn't mean they necessarily sound bad. Bass setup is not dependent on the quality a.k.a. price/name of an instrument and it's the muso's responsibility that the instrument you choose for that job is correctly set up. An SX P with a new PU if you think it needs it, and some time with a luthier doing a set up and fret dress and level, if needed, is still going to be cheaper than an MIA Fender, sound the same and work just as well. As for inspiring confidence, I've found that is more often reflected in attitude to the job, say turning up early and spending the time doing a run through to make sure it's perfect, and being enthusiastic and willing to help.
-
I'd rather someone complimented me on how I played than what I played. I've never found a promoter that could really tell what an instrument was, let alone tell the difference between say a red SX P and a Fender MIA P. As for 'less to worry about', in what way? I've never had a part on an inexpensive bass fail live (eg a tuner), and if they can't tell any difference, what's to worry about? Doesn't stop rare and expensive artworks or historical artifacts being stolen, nor someone with a substance abuse problem stealing it and selling it for a few $, and in most places getting it back isn't always easy.
-
We are in complete agreement.
-
Thanks. I'm a bit remote to try most and will have to suck it and see. I will. Thanks for the tips.
-
I was typing in reply to another post, but sure, I just don't see any benefit in them. If you had your van stolen with your bass and you needed another, what does the more expensive one really offer in terms of performance and tone that many other inexpensive replacements would? Construction, fit and finish and parts in inexpensive basses are very good today, not like 40ya. Sure, play what you like. I've played my (now sold) Alembic in a sketchy bar, but I'd prefer not to have the risk of an irreplaceable instrument being stolen or damaged. Few if any punters are going to tell the difference between it and an SX P, if I'd set the Alembic up for a classic tone.
-
Anyone is free to do as they please, I merely offered my perspective. Inexpensive instruments are generally so good these days that I see little value in the more expensive versions, and I've had a ton of basses and guitars, very modest in cost to very expensive and have played them all live so have a pretty good perspective on performance to price. If I liked FSOs I doubt I would spend the coin to get a US P bass as it offers nothing to me that an SX/HB etc gives. Even if you change out the PU, tuners and bridge because there's something wrong with them, there'd still be a massive price differential paid for a tiny performance one. If say a Fender badge on the headstock means so much to you that you pay the premium for that, it's your money. I'm sure Laura Lee will be substantially better in performance and tone with an MIA.
-
I'm at a loss why anyone would play live these days with an expensive instrument when an inexpensive modern bass will do the job just as well, (full time) pro or not.
-
Which is what if I may? Would it be better to pay for the ES120 or the ES110 on runout? Good to hear. Thanks guys. I know the sounds I want in my head, but dunno how to get them. I'm good with technology and will work it out once I have the gear in hand, I'm just not sure what to buy. Synth controllers don't seem difficult to find secondhand. Time to do more research in this regard I think, but what you're saying makes sense. Suggestions in this regard will also be gratefully received.
-
I bought a cheap 61 key Alpha KB to help learn theory and am looking for something better in feel and tone as I get better at it. A nice action similar to a real piano would be nice as I'm sure a nice acoustic piano will turn up locally sooner or later. The two I'm looking at are the Yamaha P125 and the Kawai ES110 which is being run out, or the newer, basically identical ES120. I'd like MIDI so I can use it as a synth for my own projects with my music PC using Arturia and maybe some of the open source synth plug ins. I'd prefer new, unless I can score a great deal S/H for something recent. Any more keyboard savvy users like to off their tuppence worth?
-
I looked at some of the headless parts from Nova and it looks like I can make 14mm work with bass bridges. I'll then just need to make a (headless) headpiece which I can easily do myself on a simple mill. I have a strong preference for headless instruments anyway. Most likely.
-
Machinist mate and a CNC coming soon. Thanks. Added to the database. I use the SRC6 for it now, finger picked, not strummed and up the dusty end of the neck.
-
Thanks very much for that. I have conventional 6s and an SRC6 (avatar) and am looking for something in the middle ground to finger pick and do chordal work in some applications. I have some neck blanks made up that are large enough and am waiting on some time to build one. I've got a benchmark to try out now as I have about zero chance of playing a genuine one in the interim.
-
Could a Hooky 6 owner please tell me the bridge spacing? I know the nut us 2"/51mm so only 3mm narrower than my full scale 6s but don't 'appear' as wide as the full scales I have which are 16.5mm at the bridge.
