hooky_lowdown

I also am a fan of Ashdown gear. However the Line 6 offers a hella lot of bang for buck, lots of amp simulations and you can play about and programme your own, add a foot pedal and you can select a host of pre settings at your whim.

I sometimes use super glue and baking soda, you should be able to roughly see the original string depth in good light, as the original nut will be a slightly different colour to the glue and baking soda. To file down the glue and baking soda I use an old set of strings at the same gauge your new ones are, or even use the new ones, I then do each string in turn, take about 4 inches of the string and pull it taught, then use it like a saw and saw back and forth, try keeping the string as flat as possible, apply some downward pressure and it will easily carve out new string grooves.

Maybe shop around. I'm guessing someone working/living in London will be more expensive then someone rural, if you catch my drift.

Ppppppp... Perfect! 😎

That's true, however it's a relic build, and I'm sure Mark could do that, but a if he's like me he'll make it a genuine job.

The guitar reference has a rosewood fretboard, so the bass will always look different. I would just put cream/ivory pickup covers and tone knobs instead of the white one's. It'll give a slightly more vintage vibe. 👍

Faxing @KiOgon

It's rust, if there's lots of it then it will seize up. I've just put together a bitsa of a 60s P bass, I collected old rusted chrome hardware which gives the authentic look, does everything work smoothly, no! But that's the pay off for the genuine look.

I'd dare say you have the best teacher in the world. Carol is a legend. She's a huge influence to me. 😃

Mmmm, they look chrome on my screen. 🙈

Wilkinson gear, hardware or pickups are decent for little outlay. What happened to the brass saddles @stewblack?

I don't recall the JVs rep being big in the 80s or even that much in the 90s. It's the 00s when people realised how good these basses are, and price spikes happened. Things are only worth what people are prepared to pay. If you don't think they're worth £1k, then far enough, others may differ.

If you do a Google search for "Squier bronco mods" you find lots of info, threads and pics of modifications other people have done with their bronco's.

You'll need to measure the distance between the string space at the bridge. Full size bass are 19mm, but a short scale will be smaller (probably around 16 or 17mm). Then you'll need to find a 4 saddle bridge with string spacing of that size.

I've used wd40 to remove a logo from a headstock before, though the logo didn't have a clear coat over it. Worked really well, or as mentioned white spirit would also do the job. 👍

The EB Cobalt's are fairly new. These are nothing like the standard EB flats.

You may want to try Ernie Ball Cobalt strings or D'Addario Chrome's. Both are brighter sounding flats and sound great. There are two types of flatwounds available today, old school flats (which are the typical thumpy, dull sounding flats), and hybrid flats (which have the thump, but are brighter sounding and more articulate).

Sometimes you get a set of strings which have a dud string, it's mostly the E string (which sounds duller or less life than the other strings). I've had it with rounds as well as flats. You might be able to give the E string some life by snapping it against the fretboard, lift the string up and let it snap against the fretboard - being flats it won't damage the frets or fretboard, but may loosen some residue or something causing the string to sound dull.

You've done a very decent job there. I know the tech for ZZ Top vinyl wrapped a few of their back up basses to look like the heavily roadworn original 50s single coil p bass.

Excellent work, thanks for sharing the pictures, bass looks gorgeous now. 👍