bumnote

many years ago i was watching another band set up to suddenly see the bass player on his back with one hand on his bass, and one on a mike stand and he was in a bad way. no one in his band knew what to do, one bloke nearly grabbed the mike stand but I knew where the mains was and unplugged it. It doesnt take much to get electrocuted, and if you have a problem, you will have to rely on other people to sort your problem out very quickly. I always put a clause in our contract that is is the promoters responsibility to provide a safe supply of electricity. I check the mains outlet with an martindale tester when we arrive, I also check the plugboards and we have found faults in those where a wire has come off. We always use an rcd and I normally use a wireless as much for added safety as anything else. as other posters have said, if an rcd trips its 'probably' because one of your bits of kit is faulty. You might be able to check the obvious things, if they are non moulded plugs are any of the cables loose inside, splits,etc. You might be able to identify its the guitarists amp, so he can play acoustically. if its your amp, dont use it, go into the pa, or even cancel the gig, its not worth dying for.

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='780480' date='Mar 20 2010, 08:47 AM']I could go on but I suspect most people won't be interested.[/quote] I found that very interesting thanks

I suspect mine would have been something from the first shadows lp, probably shadoogie

thats at least 13 frets to be unused/dusty

I saw that as did a friend, we were both going to bid and then it disapeared nice score

Hi Bobby Is that the VA on ebay that completed yesterday or the day before?

I have three basses with this type of trussrod if you mean the big cross screw head. The neck has been on and off my 60s precision for years and it still screws back on ok. as long as you are carefull and dont overtighten it should be fine. alternively, you can get some access if you take the screws out of the scratch plate and move it away you can get a screwdriver in one of the 1/4 slots. i would only do that if there are no strings on or they are slack and check that the truss rod is not stiff and dont force it.

thats pretty nifty My guitarist is over to the states tomorrow for a week so i thought I would get him to bring me back some strings and a new tuner. Looking on the Sam ash site the prices even with no shipping and [coughs] assuming he goes through the nothing to declare isle, the prices are not much cheaper than whats on e bay in the uk I suspect that where the pound is down at 1.48 ish importing is not going to be that attractive

the drummer is the youngest in our band and he just got his bus pass. Form your own band is best and then YOU get the chance to set the ground rules.

wireless is wonderfull

I have a us jo osbourne and i still have a skyline scheff, and have previously owned a 55-02, 44-02, and a skyline jo. the best description on the old dudepit was you get 80% of the bass for half the money and its probably not far off. The us production is flawless, great finish, great action set up, and controlled weight. The electrics are the same for both, but the us jo has a graphite reinforced neck and two dual contric pots which i prefer. Of the skylines I have had, there is not the same attention to detail, the little things, the soldering, they are made to a price, and some of the early ones were heavy. It depends how much you are prepared to pay extra for that certain little something. I love my jo but its not always the first one i would pick up. I think if I had the choice all over again, and the weighs were ok, i would probably have a skyline jo and a skyline glaub rather than a us jo.

The pound is weak again against the dollar and vats gone back up again That will be the excuse Apparently in 1915 you could get 5 dollars to the pound, now wouldnt that make basses affordable

how about some motown whats going on by marvin gaye, I was made to love her etc

Clear nail varnish will work and is breakable if you want to make further adjustments.

[url="http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/intere.html"]http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/intere.html[/url] There is an interesting article about hi fi interconnects here I think we almost need to try to seperate mechanical quality with sound quality To me it makes sense to use good quality neutrik or similar plugs with proper strain releif as opposed to the plastic moulded plugs. Similarly theres no point in using cheap cable if the insulation is poor or whatever other faults can occur in a cheap cable. On the other hand even if you can hear the difference between an average cable and your super gold plated platinum lead with the flashing lights, can you hear that difference on stage amongst the crash of the drummers cymbals, and the tuneless widdling of the guitarist I normally make my own using quality components and reasonable cable. I had my first faulty lead for as long as I can remember which was a rarely used commercially made, and not cheap lead I bought from a local store

[quote name='Paul Cooke' post='749490' date='Feb 18 2010, 11:54 AM']nut needs filing... I got a new nut and kept the old one to revert back to if needs be.[/quote] Ta muchly

I have always fancied trying a set of Roto True Bass the old style ones with the plastic covering but I have been put off by the nominal string gauges of 65 75 100 etc If a standard gauge is 45 65 85 105 do tru bass fit a standard nut or does the nut need filing?

I have no experience of the CV jazz but I have got a CV 50s precision and the quality is pretty good. Sure its got cheap pots just like were on both the cij fenders I have, but thats really only to be expected on a budget item. The solderings ok and the cavity is screened with paint. Its not uncommon with cheaper instruments to have large routes underneath the pickguard if it makes machining or assembly easier and cheaper. As always we get what we pay for and I think the CV series is amazing value.

If it aint broke........................... Seriously, what are you trying to achieve? On the assumption that you have a tranny amp ? is that you can get extra wattage by runing into a lower impedance speaker doesnt necessarily give you a huge increase in volume. If you read through some of Alex clabers posts there is a limit to how loud a loudspeaker will go after a finite input. Certainly my experience of changing from a single 8ohm to a single 4 ohm cab was disapointing, [as was changing from a 100w to a 200w marshall many years ago. If your amp really does go down to 2 ohm [and there doesnt seem to be many that do] try it and see what you think. The wirings easy enough to do and you can change it back if you want to. If it were me i would buy an additional cab

[quote name='slobluesine' post='747304' date='Feb 16 2010, 03:01 PM']so could i get a 2x12 8ohm cab down to 2ohms? any point you ask? well my amp will go down to 2ohms apparently[/quote] It depends on the impedance of the speakers in the box 2 16 ohm will give you 8 if wired in parallel or 32 if wired in series 2 4 ohms will give you 8 ohms wired in series and 2 if wired in parallel I suspect your speakers are more likely to be 15 oms rather than 4 but you need to check them out. Personally I wouldnt bother and I dont think you will notice much or any difference