Twigman

[quote name='LowdownRumble' timestamp='1335369092' post='1630038'] None of those will fit a Rockbass Corvette by the looks of it. Besides, its not really a compartment, it's just a cut-out in the body with a lid on it. [/quote] Have you phoned Warwick?

So this is going to happen....ordered a few hardware bits and bobs for it today including another genuine fender '62 RI brown tort plate... Haven't yet ordered the body or neck as am still debating colour schemes albeit the brown tort plate is now a given. Graffitti Yellow is now looking like a serious option..... I just wish warmoth did a solid pastel orange.... Waiting on a light alder p-bass body hitting the warmoth showcase.

http://catswhiskerpickups.co.uk/bass.html this place might be worth a try

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1335346455' post='1629479'] For the record I agree you (just you) shouldn't use effect pedals. [/quote] That made me laugh!!!!!!!!!! For the record I use a passive bass (for now) and a mere 2 pedals. A chorus (80s style) for 2 or 3 songs in a 20+ song set and a BBE OptoStomp compressor 100% of the time. Takes me <1minute to set up.

[quote name='bclhaynes' timestamp='1335281974' post='1628579'] Something else to consider is splitting rehearsals up so that at one you play through the songs and don't worry about effects,[/quote] That could not be done in my band as guitar delay is an integral part of the songs. On several songs the guitar delay provides the tempo. [quote name='bclhaynes' timestamp='1335281974' post='1628579'] but he really shouldn't be wasting the whole bands time sorting his own gear out. [/quote] He should do like our drummer who generally arrives before rehearsal start time and sets up the kit. He can do that in 10 minutes mind....but he still arrives 15minutes earlier than the rest of us.

[quote name='GremlinAndy' timestamp='1335281725' post='1628572'] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/user/8976-dave-vader/"][color=#282828]Dave Vader[/color][/url] Wow really? A rosewood neck with maple board? I had no idea they were common. I don't think I ever saw one. If they are only common on budget basses, do you reckon it's because the comination isn't good. [/quote] read the post again - he's talking about maple necks with separate maple boards using the same construction as maple/rw necks as opposed to maple one piece

[quote name='Emanew' timestamp='1335263140' post='1628095'] To my opinion, by playing with a maple fingerboard, you choose to "color" the tone. You have higher frequencies, you go through the mix. With rosewood and[b] ebony, it's warmer.[/b] [/quote] Ebony is supposedly brighter than maple as it is far more dense and hard. To me ebony just looks cool but increases the chance of neckdive

both my current basses have rosewood boards I have had a maple board but rosewood IMO looks better, feels better and sounds better - or maybe that's just in the mind I'd like to try an ebony board as I think that possibly looks better than rosewood but as it's harder it should be brighter....but isn't it heavy?

ErnieBall Group3 flats here 45-100 I never use anything else

not read the thread but isn't the OP question akin to : How can our eardrums hear more than one sound at a time? or How can a microphone pick up more than one sound at time? Speakers are just ear drums/mics in reverse, aren't they?

...OK so it's slightly shorter even on max extension than I am used to....but I'm sure I'll get used to that....and yes it seems to make the bass feel lighter

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1335204786' post='1627274'] So you've got a bass that only sounds good with the P pickup so the next one you're going to buy is only going to have a P pickup? That's confusing [/quote] Yeah I know it seems confusing.....but since building the P-J I realise I just wanted another P with a little more tone control hence the idea of the JohnEast pre with the Nordstrand P..... I think I am just planning the bass the first one should've been. I suppose I could just disconnect the J pup and stick a preamp in and would achieve similar results but there are a couple of other niggles about the way I put the other one together that I want to iron out... I suppose the first one was like a practice. I know -more money than sense. Edit: I am just trying to convince myself that I should do it all again.

[quote name='umcoo' timestamp='1335194886' post='1627016'] that spec isn't a million miles from the one you already have.[/quote] I know but this new one will only have the P pup and the John East pre.......I think that is what I should've done last time. I know Warmoth ain't cheap but at least i can recover the import VAT which means the body/neck (finished) inc shipping could get here for around £500 add £150 for hardware, £200 for the pre and £100 for the pup and got another decent bass for under £1000 [quote name='umcoo' timestamp='1335194886' post='1627016'] I'm not sure on this, but with a P-J, is the P in a different position to 'normal'? [/quote] Not on the one I built last time

I loved building my Warmoth P-J - passive Charger Green [url="http://www.warmoth.com/Gallery/GalleryEntry.aspx?id=2917"]http://www.warmoth.c...ry.aspx?id=2917[/url] but although I love playing it I am not 100% satisfied. the J pup doesn't seem to add much (other than making the sound thin and tinny when dialled in) and getting a decent mix with the P pup is difficult. So i am contemplating building another!! Anyway here's the plan: Alder P-bass body - as light as Warmoth can make it. Finished Charger Green again. Fender 62 RI brown tort guard again. Gotoh 201 bridge again Birdseye maple, rosewood board, slim taper 20 fret Jazz neck (again) - was thinking about binding but think I'll not bother due to the price - money better spent on the preamp ;-) Schaller chrome BML tuners again Nordstrand NP4 pickup John East P-Retro with vintage knobs Any thoughts? I think this will end up being the bass I really wanted the first one to be!!

[quote name='slobluesine' timestamp='1335179850' post='1626692'] cherrs twigman, anyone know what i need to put underneath the pup? some foam or similar? this is a 51 P pup [/quote] [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/pickups-pickup-parts/pickup-parts/rubberfoam-neoprene-sponges-for-mounting-under-bass-pickups-p-3568.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/pickups-pickup-parts/pickup-parts/rubberfoam-neoprene-sponges-for-mounting-under-bass-pickups-p-3568.html[/url]

[quote name='slobluesine' timestamp='1335173508' post='1626532'] so did you fill the cavities with copper and copper tape the complete scratchplate? got any pics? [/quote] I lined the pup cavity with copper tape and covered the underside of the scratchplate where the control cavity is. I ran some copper tape from the pup cavity to the control cavity and soldered a wire from the j pup cav to the control cavity along the same hole as the pup wiring. only pic i have - part way through:

I went for the Used Look Brown&Black

[url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridges/bass-bridges/bass-bridges-4-string-singles/bass-bridge-for-fender-2-14-inch-57mm-string-spacing-2-p-1666.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridges/bass-bridges/bass-bridges-4-string-singles/bass-bridge-for-fender-2-14-inch-57mm-string-spacing-2-p-1666.html[/url] Fender BBOT style and it comes in black

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1335136463' post='1626326'] the 201 has 2 extra holes needed to be drilled, [/quote] ??? no it doesn't It's a std fit direct replacement for the Fender BBOT

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1335114021' post='1625945'] just soldered a wire between the two cavities to link the two. [/quote] I ran a strip of copper tape from the P pup cavity to the control cavity under the scratchplate......I linked the J bridge pup cavity to the control cavity with a wire. Do not forget to copper tape the underside of your scratchplate to get the full faraday cage effect. I have the quietest (in terms of hum) bass I have ever heard.

It arrived this morning. It smells lovely!! It will get a 4 hour workout on Wednesday evening.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1334834141' post='1622002'] The last time I did it - to renew the under-pickup foam - I ended up having to do some re-soldering [/quote] You could've done that without removing the pickguard.

OK chaps I have actually found one and relief! they DO have side dots as you were...........reaches for the credit card perhaps

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1334928009' post='1623598'] What makes you think they don't? [/quote] I have never seen a picture that shows them!!! I have hunted and hunted. Warmoth seem to picture their necks from the underside so you cannot see the top edge.

I am thinking about my next Warmoth build. I think I want a J neck with ebony board with pearl block inlay and binding... BUT I have never played a bound neck before. I can rarely see the fingerboard when I play as I tend to hold the bass low and tend to lean back a bit. I am used to using the side dots as reference when playing. As far as i can tell a Warmoth bound neck has no side dots....is this true? Do you people with bound necks have a lack of side dots? Do you find it a hinderance?