Twigman

both my current basses have rosewood boards I have had a maple board but rosewood IMO looks better, feels better and sounds better - or maybe that's just in the mind I'd like to try an ebony board as I think that possibly looks better than rosewood but as it's harder it should be brighter....but isn't it heavy?

ErnieBall Group3 flats here 45-100 I never use anything else

not read the thread but isn't the OP question akin to : How can our eardrums hear more than one sound at a time? or How can a microphone pick up more than one sound at time? Speakers are just ear drums/mics in reverse, aren't they?

...OK so it's slightly shorter even on max extension than I am used to....but I'm sure I'll get used to that....and yes it seems to make the bass feel lighter

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1335204786' post='1627274'] So you've got a bass that only sounds good with the P pickup so the next one you're going to buy is only going to have a P pickup? That's confusing [/quote] Yeah I know it seems confusing.....but since building the P-J I realise I just wanted another P with a little more tone control hence the idea of the JohnEast pre with the Nordstrand P..... I think I am just planning the bass the first one should've been. I suppose I could just disconnect the J pup and stick a preamp in and would achieve similar results but there are a couple of other niggles about the way I put the other one together that I want to iron out... I suppose the first one was like a practice. I know -more money than sense. Edit: I am just trying to convince myself that I should do it all again.

[quote name='umcoo' timestamp='1335194886' post='1627016'] that spec isn't a million miles from the one you already have.[/quote] I know but this new one will only have the P pup and the John East pre.......I think that is what I should've done last time. I know Warmoth ain't cheap but at least i can recover the import VAT which means the body/neck (finished) inc shipping could get here for around £500 add £150 for hardware, £200 for the pre and £100 for the pup and got another decent bass for under £1000 [quote name='umcoo' timestamp='1335194886' post='1627016'] I'm not sure on this, but with a P-J, is the P in a different position to 'normal'? [/quote] Not on the one I built last time

I loved building my Warmoth P-J - passive Charger Green [url="http://www.warmoth.com/Gallery/GalleryEntry.aspx?id=2917"]http://www.warmoth.c...ry.aspx?id=2917[/url] but although I love playing it I am not 100% satisfied. the J pup doesn't seem to add much (other than making the sound thin and tinny when dialled in) and getting a decent mix with the P pup is difficult. So i am contemplating building another!! Anyway here's the plan: Alder P-bass body - as light as Warmoth can make it. Finished Charger Green again. Fender 62 RI brown tort guard again. Gotoh 201 bridge again Birdseye maple, rosewood board, slim taper 20 fret Jazz neck (again) - was thinking about binding but think I'll not bother due to the price - money better spent on the preamp ;-) Schaller chrome BML tuners again Nordstrand NP4 pickup John East P-Retro with vintage knobs Any thoughts? I think this will end up being the bass I really wanted the first one to be!!

[quote name='slobluesine' timestamp='1335179850' post='1626692'] cherrs twigman, anyone know what i need to put underneath the pup? some foam or similar? this is a 51 P pup [/quote] [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/pickups-pickup-parts/pickup-parts/rubberfoam-neoprene-sponges-for-mounting-under-bass-pickups-p-3568.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/pickups-pickup-parts/pickup-parts/rubberfoam-neoprene-sponges-for-mounting-under-bass-pickups-p-3568.html[/url]

[quote name='slobluesine' timestamp='1335173508' post='1626532'] so did you fill the cavities with copper and copper tape the complete scratchplate? got any pics? [/quote] I lined the pup cavity with copper tape and covered the underside of the scratchplate where the control cavity is. I ran some copper tape from the pup cavity to the control cavity and soldered a wire from the j pup cav to the control cavity along the same hole as the pup wiring. only pic i have - part way through:

I went for the Used Look Brown&Black

[url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridges/bass-bridges/bass-bridges-4-string-singles/bass-bridge-for-fender-2-14-inch-57mm-string-spacing-2-p-1666.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridges/bass-bridges/bass-bridges-4-string-singles/bass-bridge-for-fender-2-14-inch-57mm-string-spacing-2-p-1666.html[/url] Fender BBOT style and it comes in black

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1335136463' post='1626326'] the 201 has 2 extra holes needed to be drilled, [/quote] ??? no it doesn't It's a std fit direct replacement for the Fender BBOT

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1335114021' post='1625945'] just soldered a wire between the two cavities to link the two. [/quote] I ran a strip of copper tape from the P pup cavity to the control cavity under the scratchplate......I linked the J bridge pup cavity to the control cavity with a wire. Do not forget to copper tape the underside of your scratchplate to get the full faraday cage effect. I have the quietest (in terms of hum) bass I have ever heard.

It arrived this morning. It smells lovely!! It will get a 4 hour workout on Wednesday evening.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1334834141' post='1622002'] The last time I did it - to renew the under-pickup foam - I ended up having to do some re-soldering [/quote] You could've done that without removing the pickguard.

OK chaps I have actually found one and relief! they DO have side dots as you were...........reaches for the credit card perhaps

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1334928009' post='1623598'] What makes you think they don't? [/quote] I have never seen a picture that shows them!!! I have hunted and hunted. Warmoth seem to picture their necks from the underside so you cannot see the top edge.

I am thinking about my next Warmoth build. I think I want a J neck with ebony board with pearl block inlay and binding... BUT I have never played a bound neck before. I can rarely see the fingerboard when I play as I tend to hold the bass low and tend to lean back a bit. I am used to using the side dots as reference when playing. As far as i can tell a Warmoth bound neck has no side dots....is this true? Do you people with bound necks have a lack of side dots? Do you find it a hinderance?

[quote name='Spike Vincent' timestamp='1334773738' post='1621111'] I joined a band before I could play.Punk and all that... [/quote] what he said

[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1334327809' post='1614673'] These are excellent - Minotaur from Greece - about £30-40 and arrived within a few days. Top quality and able to deal with heavy basses (I have a dodgy shoulder and back) [url="http://minotaur.gr/catalog/index.php?cPath=28&osCsid=kea90j8ah0o229867kdh25ar02"]http://minotaur.gr/c...229867kdh25ar02[/url] [/quote] [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1334331634' post='1614761'] Agree with Clarky, another vote for Minotaur here... wide, padded, high-quality leather. Been using the 'used look' vintage-style one for ages and it makes my Precision seem very light indeed. And we regularly play 2 X 1 hour sets. [/quote] I have ordered one of these. (through Thomann not direct from Minotaur) Thanks chaps. I shall let you know how I get on with it.

is the ream for the bushings the same? I thought Ultralites needed GB7 (14mm) holes while std tuners use BML (17.5mm)........or am I mistaken?

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1334333735' post='1614811'] I've got the 145cm option, and having measured it, I'd say it would go 110-145cm (approx) and currently have it adjusted to around 125cm. There are two strap button holes at the bottom end of the strap around 13cm apart for a quick change if necessary, but will also adjust in 3cm increments, so you should be able to get close to what you want. [/quote] Thanks

My first bass was a Kay P-bass in 1980/1 ish. It weighed a ton, had an action about 1/2" at the 12th and was utter garbage. I could not wait to replace it. I bought a JV Squier 62P which I still have although for the last 4 months it has retired to spare bass status. So in answer to the OP it is a definite NO

[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1334327809' post='1614673'] These are excellent - Minotaur from Greece - about £30-40 and arrived within a few days. Top quality and able to deal with heavy basses (I have a dodgy shoulder and back) [url="http://minotaur.gr/catalog/index.php?cPath=28&osCsid=kea90j8ah0o229867kdh25ar02"]http://minotaur.gr/c...229867kdh25ar02[/url] [/quote] [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1334331634' post='1614761'] Agree with Clarky, another vote for Minotaur here... wide, padded, high-quality leather. Been using the 'used look' vintage-style one for ages and it makes my Precision seem very light indeed. And we regularly play 2 X 1 hour sets. [/quote] they do look nice.....I see 2 length options 145cm and 170cm - how adjustable are they?

[quote name='Ben Jamin' timestamp='1334328222' post='1614685'] Does it have to be leather? These are really good: [url="http://www.monocase.com/mono-gs1-betty.asp"]http://www.monocase....o-gs1-betty.asp[/url] [/quote] That looks comfy...... comfort is my primary concern I suspected leather might be my best option as I've only ever seen really wide straps in leather.