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LeftyJ

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Everything posted by LeftyJ

  1. Great score! I loved the TRB5II's I owned, they felt incredibly solid and well-built. They were the regular bolt-on neck model without piezo's, but still a very flexible and versatile workhorse.
  2. Now listed on BBM's site: Pre-owned ACG Graft Fretless Bass Handmade in Scotland (billybowmanmusic.co.uk)
  3. Looks like it might be this one, to be specific: G019 J Type Fretless 4 | AC Guitars All the specs can be found with the 3 tabs underneath the pictures.
  4. Wow, the bridge on that Harley Benton sits ridiculously far forward. Makes the bass unnecessarily long, and must make it quite a stretch to reach the 1st fret! It does look cool.
  5. Ouch, that hurts to look at! And that price is insane for a ruined classic. I would want a pic of the hack job underneath the pickguard, and a more detailed pic of those two black dots / holes next to the skunkstripe at the heel. What is going on there?
  6. I'd try finding a nice used lefty Zon or Modulus 5-string, or some other nice graphite-necked bass. I would love me a nice Zon Sonus 519 or something similar. And / or a Mustang Bass.
  7. I have no experience with any John East products, but I had a similar experience when I put an Audere JZ3T in my Jazz Bass. It completely changed the character of the bass, in such a way that I stopped playing that bass altogether. Hated it. I went back to passive VVT but with an active bass boost and couldn't be happier. That said, I'm curious to try a J-Retro or J-Tone.
  8. I have only ever tried 30", 34" and 35" (OK, and a Rickenbacker which was 33.25"). Having owned a hollowbody shortscale before, I was quite surprised by how tight my 30" Atelier Z still feels and sounds and it has made me very curious about 32" scale basses as a nice middle ground. I think it might just suit me very well! I voted 34" because it is what I am most familiar with, but I think I would favour 32-33".
  9. Or Rickenbacker's quirky 2-component finishes It's always good to give the package a little rest, especially if it's packed well (because the isolation (and a case or gigbag) will slow acclimatisation down) but I wouldn't know if there's a rule of thumb to this for poly finishes.
  10. Weird how those "overshoots" have been lacquered, whereas the rest of the neck pocket has been routed after the body was finished! You'd expect the neck pocket to be ready before applying the finish, since the paint stick the body hangs on to spray and to dry is attached to the inside of the neck pocket with screws.
  11. People frown when the word "vintage" gets used to describe older budget gear that was built in massive numbers, like my 1998 Chinese-made Squier Affinity Strat which, by the above standard of "25 and older", would count. And I have to admit, it sounds funny to me too since it is by no means a coveted guitar and it sounds and plays so-so at best. Being born in 1983 though, I'm not quite ready yet to be called vintage myself. I think I can live with "50 and upwards"
  12. Came here expecting Warwick content. My disappointment is immeasurable and my day is ruined. All jokes aside, that looks clever - but it's quite bulky! On a bass with a pickguard, I think I would prefer a Zero Mod thumbrest. They use the existing screw holes of the pickguard and / or pickups. I just feel some of them are too far away from the E-string.
  13. LeftyJ

    Peak Wal?

    Bass-playing fans of Tool, Muse and Slipknot would like a word You have a point, the audience I described is a bit niche of course.
  14. Ah, fair enough! My comment was aimed more at the sideways angle the strings have to make because of how wide the tuners are spaced, and the stress this puts on the outer edges of the nut. But I can see how you're still in a planning phase and figuring things out. I do like the look of the headstock, it's familiar but not a copy.
  15. I love the shape of that! Basic yet elegant. The string angle of the B and G string from the nut to the tuners does look pretty sharp with the tuner placement as drawn.
  16. I second the recommendations for the Washburn AB series. They were great basses, and were used by many pro's at the time (they can be seen prominently in many MTV Unplugged shows of the 1990s). I would like to add the Cort NTL-B to the list. They can be found used at good prices, and were Cort's top of the line with solid Engelmann spruce top and beautiful laminated rosewood sides. I own a fretless lefty model which is lovely. They have a mini jumbo-sized body which has a fairly big belly but a narrow waist which sits comfortably on your leg when playing seated. Acoustic tone is not loud enough to compete with acoustic guitars without amplification, but the electronics (high-level Fishman Prefix Plus with very useful EQ bands and a notch filter to fight feedback) are great. I do recommend using a soundhole cover when playing in high-volume situations like amplified rehearsals or gigs because it WILL feedback especially on the E-string.
  17. LeftyJ

    Peak Wal?

    These prices are wild! Back in 2008 I paid 1200 GBP for a 1983 Mk 1 with flamed shedua facings and original case. It was a factory fretless that had later been fretted. That was roughly €1500 at the exchange rate of that time. The seller backed out after some trouble at the post office, which he saw as a sign that he wasn't meant to sell it. It's 15 years ago but I still think about it sometimes and recently came across the pictures of that bass when I was clearing out my old Photobucket account . I think the seller did well though, as even at that time that price was low. It was advertised on Yahoo and fairly hard to find, which leads me to think the seller wasn't very internet-savvy at the time and would have done himself short selling it at that price.
  18. Looks like it! The short-lived USA Bullet Bass, before they moved production to Japan - the Japanese versions have Gotoh GB-1 tuners I think. The maple skunk stripe is a match too.
  19. I like that! *takes notes* I usually change them one at a time unless the frets need a polish, the fingerboard needs a cleaning and oil or other maintenance is due. It depends on the bass too. I have basses with phenolic resin fingerboards (Status Graphite) that require very little maintenance save for a few drops of WD40 once in a while, and I have a few with lacquered maple fingerboards that just don't seem to accumulate any dirt at all and don't require any oil because they're fully sealed. My rosewood and ebony boards regularly get a cleaning and some lemon oil though.
  20. In 1946 Fender was founded and released their first amps. That was not a specific Squier event.
  21. Same on my Status S2 Classics. I have my 5-string tuned down to A and with light strings (040-125) which in theory should sound and feel pretty floppy - but surprisingly doesn't. I've had to adjust the truss rod slightly to accommodate the lower tension and it works fine
  22. First time I ever heard of it was when Gibson used it as surrogate rosewood fingerboards after the FBI had seized their stock of rosewood . They referred to it as "baked maple" and they were widely ridiculed for it. Looked well enough though, and hardly anyone heard a difference.
  23. Atelier Z is bringing back the Baby Z in a passive version with regular, uncovered Jazz pickups and an old school 2-saddle bridge. They're issueing it under a new "Atelier Z design" brand (the old one was already more affordable than the regular Atelier Z models, and was built at Fujigen - like all their other models with the KTS titanium rods in the neck). Looks really nice, but I don't dig the pickguard shape. The old ones had a Mustang pickguard, but this new one has the pointy bit next to the fingerboard that would also be there on a Jazz or Precision and it just looks out of place to me on a Mustang design. Source: Atelier Z's Facebook page with NAMM updates.
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