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Everything posted by Jack
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GK Microbass for a combo? I find the slim front-to-back dimension makes it a very easy one handed carry. Like a briefcase. If you want seperates though I use a Microbass head with a Barefaced Midget. So on that basis a massive +1 for everyone who's suggesting the MB200 and Barefaced one10.
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Possible. Likely even. Easy enough to try though? The way to think of these things is this: How's your DI box/pedal preamp [i]designed[/i] to work? Something like a Sansamp is designed to output the XLR to the PA system and the 1/4" to the amp. In both cases you have a gain stage before the power amp. The PA system chain is designed to be sansamp > mixer > outboard gear > poweramp The bass amp chain is designed to be sansamp > bass amp preamp > bass amp power amp In both chains you've got some serious stuff going on before you hit the power amp. None of this means it won't work! None of this means it won't even be fine! It just means that if you're not using gear the way it was designed to be used you may run into some issues. In this case, what tends to happen is quite simple: anything that can be powered by a 9V battery doesn't have enough gain to properly power the rather serious power amps. Is this a rule? No! Does it mean you won't have a perfectly acceptable rig if you do this? No! This stuff is I think quite important if you are looking to buy some of this gear and you can't try it out beforehand. Maybe then you can worry about and learn all of the minutiae. If, on the other hand, you have the stuff and you fancy a play then just do it. It'll make a bass-shaped sound either way.
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[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1489418344' post='3256729'] needs to be a load box not a di but this is what i was saying you'd get the sound of your jcm not the svt sim of the vtdi [/quote] [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1489419614' post='3256750'] If it's going between the amp and the cab you don't need a load as the cab will still be acting as one. However check that the DI is capable of dealing with the current that a modern high-wattage bass amp is capable of producing at its speaker output. IME most of these devices are aimed at guitar amps with a 100W maximum rating. [/quote] Yes to both, no need for a load box or anything as the cab is still there. As for power ratings, I'm not sure how much faith I'd have in the [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_die_dibox_passiv.htm"]£8.50 Millenium DI that advertises speaker inputs[/url], but I trust Countryman when they spec that the Type 85 can take almost 3000W. Definitely agree with BigRedX, check first and use common sense. The Marshall can't be more than 100W? Radial (one of THE names in DI boxes) do a speaker box that is rated for 300W, there are many others too.
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Hey, it's always best to use the gear you have. But what's better than best? That's right, new gear. Many DI boxes will accept a speaker output. So if you bought something like the incredible [url="http://www.countryman.com/type-85-direct-box"]Countryman Type 85[/url] (or one of it's cheaper or more expensive competitors) you could put that in between the amp and the speaker. And then you'd sound awesome.
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I don't know if anyone else agrees, but I avoid boards like that where the sockets make the leads overhang and stick out. Different strokes, and we all play different gigs, but to me they're begging for a drunk dancer to stand on those and ruin it all. Is there an option to recess them? Or maybe mount them vertically? Just a thought!
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Gallien-Krueger MBE-III Gallien-Krueger MB Fusion 500 Presouns Studio Channel > QSC PLX1602 Barefaced Midget And another Barefaced Midget Barefaced Compact There's some degree of mix and match, but the general jist is the MBE and either one or two midgets for most things, and then either the MBF or the pre/power rig with a midget and compact stack for the rock band.
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I'm really interested in those EICH amps, specifically I think the 900 for me. One things that's put me off (I'm yet to hear them in fairness) is the bass and treble controls seem to be at ludicrous frequencies. Who's producing 30Hz or 8kHz? I'd be really keen to read your review, especially concerning the eq. Enjoy the new amp, very jealous!
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I have exactly the same set up (and an extra Midget for, you know, because) and I can vouch that it's an amazing rig. On the off chance anyone is hesitating on buying this because they would prefer a non-tweeter Midget, let me know because I have two. For a bit of variety I'd happily swap one of mine for the tweeter version. I'm just putting it out there in case it helps 4 String sell his rig.
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Ah, I see. I was picturing something like [url="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/155438-REG/Rolls_MX41B_MX41B_Passive_Mixer.html"]this[/url], yes that would work brilliantly then. If you went pedal>mixer>poweramp you'd essentially have a bass-specific, one channel pa system. Sorted
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[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1489267700' post='3255676'] What about going into a pedal (Sansamp, BD 121 etc), taking a line out into the mic premap on a passive mixer, then into a poweramp? Might be a daft question. [/quote] What do you mean by 'passive mixer'? You need an extra gain stage really, so anything that's passive won't be up to much. I have a Presonus Studio Pre that works really, really well. If you don't need the other features maybe try the Presonus TubePre? Or ART and Behringer make similar units.
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With pedal preamps there can be a volume issue. The pedals have a rather limited amount of gain they can provide for a few reasons, mainly that they're limited by the 9V power supply but also they're designed to work in front of standard amps rather than power amps. You'll get sound either way, but I've seen the pedal output volume maxed and the gain controls on an amp maxed and still the signal LEDs are just barely being tickled. You really have two options, one is to find an amp with the lowest input sensitivity that you can, ideally around 0.775V. Option 2 is to use another gain stage to boots the pedal before the power amp. If you use the RBI you'll likely have a wider choice of suitable power amps. Oh sorry, I should answer your question. QSC PLX??02, pick the one you feel you need. I have a 1602 that does 300W a side into each of my Barefaceds, and the possibility of 1600W into both if I wanted. They have either a 1.2V or 1.7V input sensitivity I think, depending on the model, so you may find your RBI will sing and your VT Bass a little on the quieter side.
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[size=5]NOW SOLD, THANKS EVERYONE.[/size] Hey everybody, Continuing my 'if you haven't used it yet you probably won't' sale, this time with a John Easts Stingray preamp! It's the 3 band, 3 knob version so it fit's Stingrays that were originally 2-band, ie the jack socket is on the plate. You get volume, stacked bass and treble that replicate the original to band circuit and then a stacked semi-parametric mid control. [url="http://www.east-uk.com/index.php/bass/mmsr-3-knob-3-band.html"]Official specifications and product page[/url]. Pics this afternoon, but it looks likes some pcbs and wires to be honest....... £110, postage within mainland UK included!!!
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I bought an SFX Microthumpinator from Stroop, excellent transaction!
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*SOLD - subject to payment* Peavey DPC1400X 1u Power Amp - 1400W
Jack replied to cetera's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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It kind of, unofficially does. Sort of.
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Amp Rig query - GK1001RBii with seperate power amp
Jack replied to dmccombe7's topic in Amps and Cabs
Better to use the effect's send I would have thought. It's not balanced like you'd want but it'll be a lot hotter output than the low-level DI. That would need some sort of preamp. -
I really don't know why they even make 4ohm cabs. The advantage of slightly more output power seems negated by never being able to add another cab IME. *Assuming 4ohm minimum load, obviously
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There's brightonion too. [url="http://www.brightonion.co.uk/active-aby-pedal-with-leds/"]A/B[/url] and [url="http://www.brightonion.co.uk/products/Mono-Latching-Kill-Switch.html"]killswitches[/url] My favorite for any pedal board routing such as this. If you'd like to be able to kill both, I don't know of a pedal that would do that. Most a/b switches do A or B, some obviously also do A and B. I can't think of any that offer a 'none' output. Be simple enough to do a kill switch before the a/b I suppose. I know you want to be able to mute both, but honestly I wonder if it's worth the hassle. There are so many ways to split a signal without a dedicated a/b, and then just put a volume pedal in the guitar amp feed?
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OP, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/301636-ashdown-mag-115-deep-stupid-cheap/"]you seen this?[/url] EDIT - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/300087-ashdown-4-10-mag-450w/"]Or this, for that matter?[/url] I wanted to find an amp for me, not two cabs for someone else!
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[quote name='JimBobTTD' timestamp='1488706689' post='3251114'] I am on the hunt for a good dirt pedal but I really have no idea what to put in there.[/quote] It's still new to me, but have you heard the Joyo Orange Juice on bass? My current favorite dirt pedal.
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I really feel as though I need* a tuner and wireless. After that, an overdrive and a compressor is probably enough. I'm another one to not take an amp whenever I can get away with it, so I do like a preamp pedal. Fwiw I'm wireless, buffer, overdrive, eq, tuner, preamp, hpf, di box of that's any inspiration. *(as much can you ever NEED anything bass-related anyway)
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Make sure to get a powered/buffered/isolated/whatevertheywanttocallit if you're splitting the signal rather than using it as two inputs. . I had a Fender Micro ABY that was great but passive only iirc. Or if you're already using the me-50b anyway you could get a passive kill switch to mute the guitar amp feed.
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Whilst brightonion will do an amazing job (I have one of thir buffers a d one of their patch bays) it really would be so easy to build yourself if you fancied a cool little project.
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