Jack

A lot of class D heads actually use two separate ampliers "bridged" together to get double the voltage swing on the output. A lot of big old school pa amps could do this if you wanted to put all your eggs in one basket rather than running stereo. This is a great way to get extra power out of a small amp and it's usually invisible to the user, up until you do something like use a speaker level di box or run a 1/4" cable through the socket when the amp is turned on and short the two amp modules together. I had a qsc plx 1602 for a long time. If I had an 8ohm cabinet I could either use one of the two amps to give the cabinet 300W, or I could bridge both halves together for 1100W. Some small class D bass heads just have two smaller amps permanently bridged with no user choice. I don't really know why to be honest, @agedhorse? I guess it's easier or cheaper than just having one big amp module somehow.

G&L SB2 Tribute. You'll thank me later.

Either system will work just fine with your Stingray. With the Nux you might need a cable, with the Shure you will need a cable.

I know you're joking but the actual answer is because bass amps went from 50W to 1200W. Not that 1/4" is a good idea at any power, but I digress.

Yeah but that's a custom cable as far as I know. Sorry I missed that you had already suggested that above when I suggested the same thing in my post.

Good solution. Mine was to use the tuner on my wireless. However, this won't help the op. I'm sure you could wire a cable with a socket on one end (to accept the hx psu) and then a split to the helix and the boss on the other. Polarity etc aside it's still just 9v dc. Maybe one of our cablers on here could help? Or kludge it with adapters? But then you'd need the hx psu, a step down from 2.5 to 2.1, a y cable, and then one side stepped back up to 2.5. At that point it's maybe a little messy?

The tuner is fine, just a waste of a switch.

Can someone please point me to an explanation of what exactly the preamp and six way switch do? Just curious!

The xlrs definitely mute the internal speakers? There's no mention of that in the manual.

Have you read the youtube comments? He seems like the kind of person who would do exactly that.

Indeed, the older RBii series.

Even those aren't quite perfect for me. The now-discontinued 9050cl had 45 60 80 105. A 'normal' set would either be 40 60 80 100 or 45 65 85 105. I liked having the slightly heavier E and G with the relatively lighter A and D, made for some great flats IME.

Completely agree but they cancelled the best set with the heavier outers and lighter middles. I'm a sucker for balanced tension.

The Olympia 45-100 ones are bloomin' fantastic. And only £18 last I looked.

Someone best tell DemonFX.

You're kidding, right? I know there's been a rush on prices for all basses* recently but Stingrays have over doubled in price in the past 3-4 years. * all things, to be fair

The only thing I pan in foh are our two guitars and even they are just barely. Just to get a little separation really as they're both quite similar tones. I try not to decimate their sounds with too much EQ, but there's a mid cut in different places on each guitar and a slight pan just so they're don't fight quite so much. To your second point, we use a Behringer xr18 with six aux outs. Three are mono for the two guitars and drummer iems, one is for a very seldom used stage wedge or front fill, and the last two are in a stereo pair for my iems. There's a stereo EQ inserted across the aux bus to allow me to EQ for my dodgy ear.

I'm running stereo IEMs but only really because I have some hearing damage in one ear (no, not from volume) and need some corrective eq in one ear only. Since I'm stereo anyway I have the toms, overheads (when used), backing vocals and the two guitars panned a little. It's kind of nice but I have not found it to be the game changer that some people make it out to be. The two caveats are that I have never used mono IEMs, and that my one-eared-hearing-damage might negate some of the stereo effects for me.

Indeed my post reads as prescriptive when it's my opinion, sorry about that. You said "those were all decent" and even though I haven't tried those exact units I totally believe you. I haven't heard a difference in sound between any wireless units except my Lekato ones which do sound noticeably compressed in the lows. Honestly they're all mostly good! To me the Shure units bring a few extra features and 'quality of life' stuff which may or may not matter to you (the royal you, not @Al Krow!) and may or may not be worth the extra. I don't think they sound any better than for instance my Line 6 G30 did and even if they do you wouldn't notice on a gig. I just like things to be all plugged in and pre set up. I'd lose bugs or stand on them or something.

Oh come on, what's going here? Again!

I design training for a living. Say what you're gonna say, say it, and then say that you've said it. If something is worth saying it's worth saying twice. Yeah I reported my own post immediately, sorry guys. 🤫 I know you're poking fun but genuinely I've had (off the top of my head) a Line 6 G10, G30, G55, a Smoothound, some Lekato bugs, and now these. To be honest they're all broadly fine but I do think the Shures are a step above the rest. I have literally had one dropout in 5-6 years, the format is great, the thing is well built, the tuner means I don't have to waste a helix footswitch or have a separate tuner on my analogue board, you can trade latency for stability if you need to, the batteries last forever (and are replaceable when they stop lasting forever), it scans for the best channel automatically, etc etc. I think that at some point soon I'm going to get a Quad Cortex and when I do I will probably upgrade to the new GLX+ as I think the input jack is a great idea and something I've missed in my current setup but I'm in no hurry. I've had these boards for 5 years or so now and I just don't want an 'interesting' rig. I want to just have stuff work and focus on playing, which I find hard enough! £300 used or £500 new is admittedly a lot of money but no they are not overpriced. They are expensive and worth it. The only thing 'above' these are the proper pro units costing thousands.

Just for the record you can replace the batteries on the shure units. It's the same one used by most if their wireless mics and very readily available. Go glx, by far the best consumer unit. o

I know you're sorted now but for years I've used an aldi copy of a Stanley fat max. Holds everything with room to spare and it's pull along.

It's weird at the moment. I certainly feel as though it's getting harder and harder in pub gig world, more bands playing in fewer places, and the places that are still going are barely holding on. I've definitely done plenty of gigs recently where I've thought that we won't have brought our fee back into the pub in terms of extra drinks sold. On the other hand it seems as though function work is getting more lucrative and there are more opportunities. Every wedding is a debt-inducing 3 day affair at a luxurious country house, every awards ceremony needs to have the dancefloor and every office party has a band before the DJ.