Downunderwonder

Is this for DB and drums or that was just an entertaining anecdote? Not ideal but a 3/4 will fit in a original Mini so your choices are wide open unless you are the drum wagon also.

First things first is play some music with cymbals in it through the cab and put your ear up to the HF driver. You'll soon know if it's working or not.

Depending on the brightness of the LED and the sun it might be just enough to surround the LED with black tape. I know this is not enough for some LED eg Samsamp BDDI deluxe which is already black, so it's a bit of a longshot but lots of LED are painfully bright indoors so maybe you get lucky. Otherwise you'll have to rig some shade. If a general hood over the board doesn't give you enough darkness you'll have to shade individual LED with little tunnels to view down. Line the bottom cm with aluminium foil and the rest black for a boost in the effective viewable angle.

Maybe same stuff but Hartke must have used different adhesive. Everyone else has had a week of sanding back gobs of melted fur/adhesive muck to report.

Is Mammoth Wool something different to Rat Fur? Reason I ask is nobody made light work of de-Rat Furring that ever I saw.

I was careful to only suggest they could possibly increase production rates. I know nothing of their process or business succession plan or anything. They can never employ an apprentice and work through to retirement upping the price every year until selling the retirement year model for 50k a pop for all I care. Or they could build it up just a little and gift it to the new staff once they have all the skills.

In that case you can learn just as much by playing quietly through your guitar gear until it's time to play with others. That'll give you a couple of months to save up for something that will move some air.

Only with a really big cabinet. And then only with cooperative bandmates.

Not happening dude. Your money is better spent on a used rig with some real oomph to play metal in the traditional way with guitar amps and drums.

If you need a smaller bass to stop doing that then that's what you should do. Obviously shorter people play full size basses and the relative sizes reinforce the relative scale. Either that's a problem for you or it isn't. If your fingers can handle the regular scale you can cheat by playing a 2+2 to shrink the headstock a little. Smaller body bass same deal. But look out for neck dive. Then you could still feel short standing next to a tall guitarist. If you get a headless bass you could look like a short bassist over compensating. Better to stop feeling short I guess.

Of string theory I know nothing, except ime flats are flatter than rounds.

I bought a whole PA set. Borrowed a van to pick it all up from the shipper. Set it up at the gig with the help of a bona fide soundman and the manuals. Boom.

@uk_lefty confused by lingo or concepts?

If you think of a donut as having a surface and containing volume and a holed sock being a planar surface with a hole then they are topologically a bit different. The donut has only one side!

Happy days.

It would be good business if they could knock out the bigger part of the current waitlist without sacrificing quality. They could then carry on taking on even more orders in good faith and still commanding the big dollars. Easier said than done. Why risk it?

Tell that to the old bassist for the Buddy Rich Orchestra!!!!

Lefty guitar players shrink stages too.

Aye, trouble shooting is a precision sport.

Nobody in their right mind is going to disconnect the combo driver and carry it around as an amp for another cab. That's the only way it will assuredly work well.

The only thing an 'iso pad' can do is cut down on cabinet vibrations shaking the floor structure. The speaker making lovely bassy sounds will be entirely unaffected. Play bass laying on the floor with one cab each side of your head 8' apart.

All that is easily achieved with the right preamp pedal and some EQ. Stick with the BF cab and then your effected DI on the really big gigs will be easily amped up by the PA as it won't have any cab compensating colouring in it.

Chops are everything to me. I couldn't care less what anyone's bass says on the headstock.

Could well be. I can't read the labels on the jacks in the photo. It would have to be a really poorly matched speaker that could realise any gain from putting another cab in series. The amp would be throttled back to 8 ohm output level. Unless there's a bona fide matching B'ringer extension cab available I wouldn't bother. It's not a good idea to throw any old cab into series as there are unpredictable consequences to adding random loads in series that include giving the amp the heebie jeebies.

I think even the Aussies have to give the new guy a month before it's his fault.