
lapolpora
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Everything posted by lapolpora
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Hi, I've been using Universal Audio's plug-ins for mixing and mastering for about 4 years now and never felt like I needed to try anything else. Their sound and quality are highly regarded by all in the studio world. I'm selling my UAD-1e card to make way in my computer for a higher spec'd UA card - I need more processing power but have a limited number of available PCI slots in my Mac. This card would be a good addition to someone already using UAD cards who needs more power, or someone starting out and looking for an inexpensive way to get on the UA platform. The card runs on Macs and PCs and comes with the Mix Essentials bundle. You will need an available PCI express slot. It's in as new condition and comes with original box and software disc (though latest software can be downloaded from the UA website). It is registered in my name and registration will be transferred to the new owner. For this you will just need to create a UA account which doesn't cost anything. Price [b]£85 posted[/b] [attachment=59642:IMG_1863.JPG][attachment=59643:IMG_1864.JPG] Cheers, Derrick
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Hi, I'm selling my Universal Audio Solo 610 valve mic preamp as I'm looking to upgrade to one of Universal Audio's more expensive channel strips (which incidentally has the same mic pre in its preamp stage). The 610 is a lovely mic pre that works really well with all types of microphones - condensers, ribbons and dynamics. I've found it to be a very versatile preamp that is easy to use and does ultra clean to saturated with very simple controls. Always sounds musical, very hard to make it sound bad! The DI stage is a useful for both basses and guitars, but I have used it primarily as a mic preamp for vocals. Full tech info can be found on the UA website [url="http://www.uaudio.com/products/hardware/solo610/index.html"]http://www.uaudio.com/products/hardware/solo610/index.html[/url] The unit is in as new condition with original box and power lead. I've always looked after it, it's never been abused or driven very hard and it probably has seen less than 30 hours use. Now sold. Thanks for the interest. Cheers, Derrick
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The next pickguard was made for my Fender Jazz CIJ '75 reissue by the Aurora Project. This one is used with light fingernail scratches in the "slapping" area. Otherwise in good condition - reduced price now [b]£5 posted[/b]. EDIT: If the scanned image is reduced, PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you. Cheers, and thanks for looking. Derrick
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[attachment=55727:Fender_G...ickguard.jpg]Hello, I have two pickguards for sale. Both are 3 ply black/white/black. As well as pictures I have attached a pencil template around each marking out where the fixing holes are, scanned in at 100%. If you print these off at 100% you should hopefully be able to tell if they will fit your bass. The first I bought as a genuine Fender pickguard for a Geddy Lee Jazz. It's unused with the protective plastic film still on. Price - [b]£16 posted[/b]. EDIT: Geddy Lee scratchplate SOLD. Scratchplate for CIJ Fender Jazz 75 reissue still available (see post below).
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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='903793' date='Jul 24 2010, 09:35 AM']Looks like a chamfeured body too,Could it be a typo for 1993?[/quote] The string tree is in the wrong place for an '83 surely? 1993 seems about right. It looks near identical to mine from the same year. Could well be a terrific bass for the right money. A serial number would help date it......
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Andy did me a great deal on two pairs of headphones and a whole bunch of cables. He also delivered them to my door. A cracking deal from a top BC'er.
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Sold*Proel Microphone Case*Sold
lapolpora replied to goaround's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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I've got the fretted version of this model which a very good friend of mine brought back from Japan for me. However there is something astonishing beautiful about the maple fretless. Well done for getting hold of this. If you ever decide it's not for you and want to move it on I'll be first in the queue
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[quote name='Colledge' post='864853' date='Jun 12 2010, 12:42 AM']Like the one I have in the for sale section? /shameless salesmanship[/quote] 'Fraid not. The original 2x15 was bigger and had the reflex port flares on the front - like a giant BLX. It was wide and deep. I used to have pictures in an old TE catalogue from the time - sadly long since thrown out in my bass celibacy years. Your cab does look nice though!
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[quote name='mep' post='864698' date='Jun 11 2010, 09:10 PM']Never knew these even existed! 1x18 yes, 2x18 is just crazy. A blast from the past of those monolithic stack days.[/quote] I remember this cab. There was a HF 2x10 cab that was designed to go with this. A predecessor to the 4x5 bright box if you like. However they also did a a 2x15 reflex cab at the same time (MkIII-MkIV era) that was even more awesome. It was massive, and the bass it threw out was astonishing! They used to have these on demo in Monkey Business and the old Bass Centre when it at Wapping (and upstairs).
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Rarely (if ever) see these nowadays: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-TRACE-ELLIOT-2-X-18-BASS-CAB-SPEAKER-CABINET-/280517367245?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item41502355cd#ht_545wt_964"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-TRACE-ELLIOT...cd#ht_545wt_964[/url]
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Another thing to consider why the seller would not want to reveal the serial - maybe it's stolen. Not to accuse him of being a thief but maybe he's shifting something he knows to be dodgy.
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[quote name='BassBod' post='825448' date='May 2 2010, 12:51 PM']I wouldn't do it again. Unless you're very confident and steady handed, have sharp tools and know a bit about carbon/graphite do's and don'ts. The carbon fibre is very thin and brittle - ie the srews only grip 2-3mm of resin, then its fresh air inside the neck, with some foam. The holes have to be counter-sunk to avoid chipping as the screws go in - it all feels a bit high risk on an expensive neck. I did it fine, but its not a forgiving material. I've got a lot of respect for Rob Green, making basses out of that stuff, and to such a high standard. Edit for a PS: I also wouldn't do it again for sonic reasons - way too brittle/hard a sound for me...but lots of people love it [/quote] Thanks for the advice BB and OTPJ. Got some enquiries and some thinking to do.......
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Hi, I'm thinking about getting a Status Graphite neck for my EBMM Stingray. Status claim this is easy to fit yourself with their easy to follow instructions. But with the need to makes holes for the tuner fixings (16 in total) the string tree, drill six holes for the neck bolts - I can't help feeling that there's a lot to go wrong here. The neck itself is pricey - I wouldn't want to make expensive mistakes. What's the experience with fitting these? Can you do it yourself? Is it easy as Status claim? Or are you better off getting Status or a guitar tech to fit it? The neck itself costs £336. And Status would charge £110 to fit and set-up the neck. Does their fitting cost sound right? Or is that expensive? Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Derrick
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[quote name='littleal' post='824794' date='May 1 2010, 01:16 PM']I found out last week that my new 6 string fretless should be finished by september :brow: So having serious wal withdrawl symptoms, i ventured up to my Dads to borrow his 4 string custom & played along to this backing track (I forgot how seriously funky these things sound) This is straght into the desk with no eq added, bridge pickup solo'd & the tone filter around 2 [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP-DIhMyvwI"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP-DIhMyvwI[/url][/quote] Tasty! Very tasty If I had a Wal. I'd give it to you in exchange for your chops.
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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='817994' date='Apr 25 2010, 12:32 PM']Red and black together to the hot connection. On my ray34 this was to the circuit board where the White lead was. The other 3 leads go to ground. On my ray34 this was just to the back of the vol pot. This will give you a pup wired in parallel and this is the standard wiring for a single pup SR. I didn't know any of this either until last night. Hope this helps. I spent ages searching for this info and couldn't find much on line. The wiring diagram can be found on the seymour Duncan website.[/quote] Many thanks!
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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='817986' date='Apr 25 2010, 12:15 PM']I did get a reply from carey last night. Although I had wired it back to front I re did it according to Carey's instruction but it sounded the same. After playing it for a while I am happy with the tone. My theory is that the nordy has a tighter low end and this is helping to stop the G from getting overpowered with low end and this helps it cut through. Could be wrong though. It does sound a bit smoother overal so I think it wad worth doing.[/quote] Hi Dave, I've just got a Nordstrand as well - how should it be wired to be faithful to the original MM tone? And when wired correctly, is it in series or parallel? (Shame on me for not knowing ) Cheers, Derrick
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[quote name='bassatnight' post='809558' date='Apr 17 2010, 04:49 PM']Bought these two hunnies of E-Bay, a SB1000 and a SB700 Lovely!!!!![/quote] My word Steve, that SB1000 is a stunner - even nicer than mine How much did these set you back? And what made you return to the SBs after your flirtation with the Jazzes and Sadowsky? How's the Wal hunt going?Found anything yet? Derrick