warwickhunt

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='745565' date='Feb 15 2010, 09:32 AM']Huh? Surely all that should have been done before you won it.[/quote] +1 The seller may well be a chancer and the bass could well be a ringer but tbh questions and photographs should have been sorted before the end of the sale. By all accounts the seller hasn't been responding to queries put to them by BCers so I'm surprised that you went ahead and won it, whilst expecting the seller to suddenly come across all gushing with the answers after you have won it. I'm not having a pop at you but it is surprising! <edit> It makes me and Mr Ou7shined look rather foolish when someone deletes their post!

So is anyone going to admit to bagging it or should we wait and trawl through eBay in the coming weeks?

The old Polytone Minibrute combos used to get good reviews for such work, never had one but iirc they did the biz.

[quote name='Tyron' post='745014' date='Feb 14 2010, 05:36 PM']Perhaps I'm just getting too old, grumpy & suspicious! Perhaps also I should have asked seller some questions before posting on here? - didn't mean to accuse anyone & feel a touch guilty now :blush: Or, perhaps I should go and find something better to do like practice playing!! Thanks for sharing your thoughts with a newbie though chaps, appreciated! Tyron[/quote] Don't feel bad Tyron... EVERYBODY is guilty until proven innocent in my eBay world!

Not sure that I'd be overly suspicious! The bit about delivering after sale is a bit 'non-standard English' but there aren't the usual alarm bells going off; yes the user hasn't had much activity of late but then again loads of users are like that. I'd probably be happier if I could collect it but if you pay via paypal it's a lot safer these days.

[quote name='Rumple' post='744629' date='Feb 14 2010, 10:57 AM']Not wishing to hijack the thread but roughly how much is a refinish?[/quote] Depends if you are paying for the guy spraying it, to do all of the strip down (neck, bridge, electrics etc.) and if he is having to do all of the stripping/sanding. A straight forward spray job of a solid colour onto a body blank might be £50 +paints but a professional who will be doing the full job can easily charge a couple of hundred; iirc I paid about £250 to have a NT Warwick sprayed and that was a top quality job with quite a few hours of prep.

Only a couple of miles from me but it's a 5er so no good for me. It's also got a reserve so no idea what that might be!

I don't find the colour that offensive... in fact I quite like it BUT I wouldn't be paying that for a MIJ bass!

There appears to be a glut of these for sale on eBay @ approx £475; however they are from the States. I realise you then need to factor in shipping and import taxes/duty but are they easy enough to convert over from 120v?

A sad loss of life if suicide due to taunting is the case; condolences to his family and friends.

Tbh you need to check what the cost of repair + refinish is going to cost you. A pro job is going to cost you a couple of hundred and that then pushes the total cost of bass + refin to the point where it'd cost more than just getting one in your favoured colour (assuming that they are available in that colour ). Purely from a personal point of view (and considering personal experience of refinishing basses that I ended up NOT keeping ), I'd say leave as is and use it or sell it and get the colour you wanted! Just an opinion.

[quote name='Rich' post='742974' date='Feb 12 2010, 12:16 PM']How much do they normally go for?[/quote] Oooh I'd say about £45 used... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=76113"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=76113[/url]

[quote name='redstriper' post='743347' date='Feb 12 2010, 06:06 PM']Why ? Whoever enjoyed a gig because the bass looked pretty ?[/quote] Errr... me!

[quote name='phsycoandy' post='742843' date='Feb 12 2010, 09:50 AM']Thanks for varying advice, which is I guess what I expected. So what then for a [u]compact[/u] [u]powerful[/u] [u]easy transportable[/u] system, for a covers band. up to about £750?[/quote] Assuming you are wanting 1k-2k of power and you are looking at quality components, as opposed to stuff like Behringer (apologies to Behringer users), you can probably get 2 out of 3 for that budget but you'll have to look really hard to achieve all 3! We went for a 'used' active RCF system (a pair of 1x12 750w tops + a single 1000w bass bin) and it cost us £1750... not cheap but stunningly good! Even then the bass bin isn't a one-man carry.

I researched the Bose system a while back and even the guy who worked in the shop flogging them (I've known him many years through various Music shops) said that they were fine/good for small 'cafe' style gigs but there were far better systems out there for similar money. One consideration is that the guy also advised me that you needed a minimum of two of the Bose subs to go with each column... starts getting even pricier! In summary great if you are in a small, acoustic style band but less impressive for other environments/bands

[quote name='bubinga5' post='742592' date='Feb 11 2010, 10:14 PM']The more and more i play my CS 1970 Jazz, the more i realise its prob a bass i will never let go...[/quote] I'll quote this as a future classic!

[quote name='Delberthot' post='742350' date='Feb 11 2010, 06:22 PM']Warwickhunt was selling a couple of Peavey cabs a while back that he thought were good with bass.[/quote] You rang? I'm using a single Peavey HiSys (1x15 +Horn) cab as a rehearsal cab (stored at our rehearsal space so saves humping my Aggies) and for what it is worth as a PA cab I'd now not sell it. It makes a perfectly good bass cab and for what you can pick them up used (ie cheaper than an equivalent 'bass cab') I don't think you can go wrong. Not saying that EVERY PA cab would be ideal for bass but this 1x15 with a very healthy volume of air, will do nicely... and that's regardless of the fact that I have one going spare because it'd be cheaper for you to source one locally.

I've had the driver out of an Aggie DB112 cab. Unscrew the Aguilar badge then reinsert one of the screws leaving enough of the screwhead showing to get purchase on with a decent pair of pliers. Then pull the grill out (attached with heavy duty velcro), this method stops the implement used as a lever from deforming the edge of the cab. The drivers are as you say front mounted and easily removed. However, unless you have a blown driver why would you replace one! Don't worry if you have an amp that seems to have a higher power rating it won't do any damage and if you only have one 8 ohm cab and you feel that a 4 ohm would get the full output then it really is a false economy as you'll not get a massive amount more out of a single 4 ohm cab... all of this is just guess work as I have no idea why you want to replace the driver!

"All original"... forgive me my ignorance but when did EMG's come as original spec on these basses?