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caitlin
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Everything posted by caitlin
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@SpondonBassedwill be happy (I saw I was name dropped in that other thread :P) to know that I've got two rattle cans of fill primer and two cans of 'appliance white' which may be a terrible choice. I've got a lot more sanding to do and I really do wish my flush straploks would turn up because I don't want to drill the recess for them till I know they're going to turn up and I can't really paint till I have all the holes drilled appropriately The oil for the neck is also being ignored by Royal Fail's finest parcel non-delivery section Stupid pandemic. Still, I almost have everything in hand to *Finish* this thing, urk.
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Thanks for your advice, it's super appreciated.
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looks like about a 4mm screw shank by my chinese off-by-at-least-a-mm calipers. I was planning to throw a 3mm drill bit in and wax the screw. I don't want *any* flipping risk of not having enough bite. Of course the instructions just say screw the neck on, not a mention of a pilot hole, they also of course say nothing of earthing the bridge so they're not, uh, good. Here's the thing, the holes on the BODY are not large enough to allow the screw through without 'screwing' it, and to my mind they should *just* push through so that the can use the washers and the neck to *clamp* the body to the neck. But also I've seen fender custom shop videos where they clearly screw the screw through the body before hitting the neck. The threads are wider than the screw shank of course, but there's not a whole 'body' thickness of unthreaded screw at the end of the screw so I'm a little unsure of whether to gently relieve the body holes or not Moot for now since I don't seem to be able to choose a colour of 'white' off the website I'm looking at for body paint yet /o\
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Obviously I've made a cack handed mess of it, but it'll 'do' and it's not so bad it doesn't *work*, but there's not much surface for the plate round some of it. I can of course re route that if i decide to make a custom plate later on. Here's some traumatic photos I took whilst still shaking from fear: I used my template and another scrap of ply to sandwich the body between and bend the template over the body, I don't think there's any marking to speak of although the routing is a little uneven in depth. I've ordered some tru-oil for the neck, so next jobs are pilot holes for the neck screws (what on earth drill size should one use?!) and sanding the neck ready for finish. There's a tiny chance my straplok sockets might arrive today, but those can't be more than test fit before paint. It's quite exiting, this. I can see my future involving a scratch built neck through fretless with LED fret markers in my future
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I thought I'd better start a thread since I'm taking a bunch of photos and stumbling around in the dark. I've spend most of my time so far working the heel of the neck to better fit the pocket on the body. The body seemed the straighter of the two. Now with a single thin shim of laminated card slid in with the neck it squeaks into the pocket and feels really snug. I moved onto the body today, first finding the center line then trying to position the bridge Here's measured up to drop the saddles at 34" See Here's the literal 'strings' over the saddles And here's the 24th fret area, I dunno who that bloke is. Since then I was starting to sand the body with 240 grit but I remembered that I want to recess the control cavity for the cover. I checked the offset from the template gauge on my router to the inside of the plunge tool and it came out at 11mm, amazingly i found a washer with a hole to edge size of 11mm so I used that to trace around the cavity cover to jigsaw out a routing template. Here's the results of my first test cut: The fit isn't perfect, but too small is much better than too big I'm hoping in the future i can remake that cover in a nice bit of wood and swap that in. Of course the body is curved, so I have no clue how to get the template to match the curve I'm wondering about soaking the template and clamping it through some foil or grease proof paper to stop the bass getting wet and letting it dry to match, but any tips would be cool about now I'm currently thinking of painting it some kind of white because all the hardware is black and I quite like a black white contrast.
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Convince me TO or TO NOT grab a 5 string kit bass to help me while away the lock down hours and my reduced working week to end up with a pointless bass with no resale value. Go on, convince me!
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I know it's the wrong 6 string bass, but that weegie kid who played on steel panther's encore having been pulled out of the crowd flipping SMASHED it. What a hero.
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Well, I got a zoom b1x four and what can I say beyond "now I can't feel the fingertips on my right hand" it sure does give one the confidence to dig in. The octaver is a nice thing and there's a lot of bleepy bloop in that box AND it connects to linux just fine.
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Yup, all I did was plug it in to see if linux saw it, used the computer to select octaver so i didn't have to find it by scrolling and then i played sledgehammer on repeat for about 20 mins
a trip through the inbuilt patches one by one and then put it to bed because 'dinner' and 'going to the cinema' and stuff.
I generally can't stand messing about with tiny menus and button combi-presses which is one reason I went for a computerable doodle. I think that's going to be a really big help.
the explosion thing is stupid, what is that even for?
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Stretching off, how does that work? I'm trying to stay relaxed, but pushing tempo on some riffs, inevitably there's a build up of lactic acid and whatnot in the muscles that don't understand what's needed of them yet, how does one warm up and down as a noob so one doesn't turn into a total mess?
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Srsly though why do people keep trying to steal my cable? Is there a decent system for labelling them? grrr.
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2x Barefaced Two10 Steel Grill 12ohm SOLD/WITHDRAWN
caitlin replied to kevham's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
nnnnnngggg... I'm in central Scotland so this almost seems a no brainer. I'd only want one though What's this about the 4ohm conversion because I'd want to push it with an elf... is that insane? -
64 foot port on the cab should sort a vaulted church just fine. Vox Dei pedal after a compressor, perhaps?
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People you don't get on with is mostly the bad idea unless it's just for money and there is professionalism to rely on. Different musical tastes though, I don't listen to a lot of metal but hells its FUN playing drums in a metal band *smash smash dugga dugga* etc. It can sometimes be nice to stretch your legs a bit, no?
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That was scarier than it should have been.
I broke my bass.
I fixed my bass.
Wasn't quite careful enough and grounded out the signal lead on the body of the new jack socket like a *chump*. Zero noises when the cable is knocked now.
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Yeh, That epoxy thing looks like a better plan. I was mostly just popping in to say that if you use a normal screw through the laminate and the block you're hoping to glue clamp in then it wouldn't deliver a clamping force unless you add the strap button at the same time *and* have the hole in the laminate oversized so the screw threads don't bite into it.
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Opening the tin on something mains powered which puts voltages across your head AND has a warrantee sounds like silliness to my mind I've never heard of ANY kit since a crystal radio set that had a mono headphone socket, this this sounds like it's broken and needs to get sent back, this is quite probably the reason for the first return but it tested out ok because they didn't check the headphone socket
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Have you tried cleaning your ears? Still curious what these ear bins actually ARE.
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What kind of headphones are these? brand? model, picture?
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See how the connectors on the cables have metal bits and black bands? The metal is the contact for one of the channels or earth or microphone or whatever. The very end that you can poke yourself with is the Tip (T) then there's a Ring (R) and then there's metal all the way down to the base of the plug, which is the Sleeve (S) (TRS) If you find some headphones that came with a mobile phone or something that has a microphone you'll see there's another metal band, so there's the Tip, a Ring, another Ring and then the Sleeve (TRRS) Sometimes the contacts inside a socket aren't set up to understand TRRS and fail to ground out properly if the wrong connector is used. Your headphones don't have a microphone attached do they? Because a TRS cable might confuse the headphone end if it WANTS a TRRS.
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I'm out of ideas, thanks for the clarification, it doesn't look like you have a TRRS issue anyway. If this thing is new you should get warrantee support, right?
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so if you have the head plugged into a cab, you plug your ipad into the head using that red cable, and it plays fine, audio from the ipad and the signal from your bass, but if you unplug that red cable from the ipad and instead use it to connect your headphones then it sounds wonky in one of the headphone speakers? That cable looks really short for headphones
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what does the tip of the headphone wire look like? you've posted the cable from the ipad to the amp, right?
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What's the deal with 18V preamps, that just seems a total annoyance
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QuoteBut I'm thinking that if ONE of the two batteries gets a bit meh, it's going to drag voltages all over the place, and it has all the scope for mix loading the two cell packs and asking for them to leak.
A 9V battery is already 6 cells in series wrapped in foil, so you can't really escape that!
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Yeh, that's a fair point, and it's not like it's a 40C drain on the things, so I'm being a bit precious, I just KNOW I'll end up with one too few batteries at the crucial moment.
Nothing for it, I'll have to go high end and get a bass with a rechargeable lipo in it which will deffo never burn my house down.
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Your best (and worst!) bass gear purchases of 2019?
caitlin replied to Al Krow's topic in General Discussion
Best: A few lessons to get me comfortably started on bass. A couple of books from trinity with good tunes to learn and backing tracks. A REALLY nice DSL strap which makes my neck heavy bass a joy to play. Worst: NOT buying a 5 string. -
Urk, Cort Action V Plus 5 string on a deal for £180, would I be a muppet to leave that on the shelf? it's going to cost me about a tenner to fix the socket on my 4, which otherwise works fine. Why would I need another budget bass?
Looks like some good stretches in there and practise at reaching as well.
