Jump to content

caitlin

Members
  • Content Count

    172
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Total Watts

141 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Location
    Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

6,672 profile views
  1. That could be a pretty good shout actually. That thing looks like it has decent drums and a hathat controller that understands up and down. One of the things I love about my 30KV is that the hi-hat is really 'real' feeling. everyone goes on about snare drums but there's LOADS of movement and character in the hihat. What are the internal sounds like though, i have a controller keyboard which is really really nice but it's still a pain in the HOLE having to boot a computer to load a sample dooble to actually hear it. I think there's something to be said for sitting down and going straight for it
  2. sigh, the nostalgia hurts. Best of luck on your search binky_bass!
  3. Bit old, not sure I'd be BOUNCING for less than a TD20 brain. no hihat, just a bouncy rubber pad. what's your timescale, I'm a skinflint so i stick a saved search in ebay and steal the good one that eventually turns up that's in price
  4. I got my TD30 because I couldn't afford the TD50 I spent a year trying to work out how to build a sound proof studio either in my house or in my garden and after accepting that it was either impossibly expensive or would ultimately make my house collapse, or would spring a leak behind 4 layers of green glued sheet rock if built outside. Given that the TD30 was 1/10 of the cost of TRYING to play my real kit on a shoestring it seemed a no brainer, as Beedster says there's no substitute for real drums, but I have not regretted getting the roland kit for a MOMENT. Of course it's my 'main' instrument so that possibly changes my investment in it.
  5. Get an acoustic kit, you get a lot more for your money All the stuff on ebay is local pickup the VOLUME of boxes that a TD30-KV comes in is quite something.
  6. I'm a drummer, a real one 😱 The ONLY electric kit I've ever had that didn't BEND under normal use is a Roland TD-30KV Anything that doesn't have a real rack and real stands is a bit of a challenge I'd say. Same as with a bass probably, get the best you can in your budget to avoid disappointment.
  7. I'm mental though, in fairness. 2001 it was when I built my own e-drums out of bits from maplins and an alesis DM5; it even *worked*.
  8. can you solder? making cables is really easy if you have an iron. a few quid of bits from the usual internet scumbacks or just re-end a guitar cable. if cheap is the name of the game, splicing into the existing wires should be highly possible.
  9. the alesis trigger pedals seems to be a beater-less design, so there's not a 'pad' you can stick a double pedal on.
  10. The exact cable in your picture *should* work. Bass drums are a single zone single trigger so they only need two wires to trigger. the ring and sleeve of a stereo connector should short together in the socket and all you need is the kick pads in parallel with each other and the brain won't know any difference between each pedal, it'll still believe it has one. The only effect to watch for is fast playing might make the brain start 'denoising' multiple hits on the assumption it's a single trigger vibrating and double triggering. Stick that splitter into one kick and use a male to female adapter or M2F extension cable to the other pedal.
  11. what about 1.5 The band are too polite to say they noticed and 2.5 the band notice and are really critical about it
  12. thread stealing, just to check, @philparker it's a 4 string not a 5, right? so i can crawl back under my rock rather than pestering you about it?
  13. I got my first fretless a couple of months ago, and had similar fears. In fact, coming from the drums I think I have really terrible pitch sense, but I've found fretless easier than I *imagined*; I'm also playing unlined, just side dots. I find I can hear when it's 'off' from the beating, or the angry cat sounds and rolling my finger is often enough to bring the note in. I think it's a great idea to stay off the slides and the vibrato as much as possible because that doesn't help with accurate stopping and getting used to the way the 'notes' get closer up the dusty end is super important. She says having spent a week tabbing out 'Flight of the Cosmic Hippo' which is of course a total slide-festival. I've found it useful to 'find octaves' all over the neck, you can SUPER hear whether they're 'in' or 'out' and they help with knowing where the edges of 'boxes' or whatever are and how they shrink as they go up the neck. I'm sure people who can play will have better advice, but as someone learning the same those are my thinks.
  14. I'm pretty sure the crap crap crap strings that came with my kit bass is a 0.135 B.... I'm getting new strings before I go at the nut now i have feeler gauges. Everything needs to go lower by a lot. Question is, how much would I regret a 0.130 B ? much less clank, much less rattle, much less boom?

    I assume real strings will actually have more *wire* in them than what came with the rather price conscious kit :P

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. tvickey

      tvickey

      The .125 in a pack of DR Strings Lo-Riders sounds pretty good to me.

    3. Kev

      Kev

      less clank, less rattle?  You'll get much more of those things the lighter you go.  I hate .135 and use .125 or 1.30 depending on the bass.

    4. Jakester

      Jakester

      Quote

      how much would I regret a 0.130 B ?

      0.005?

  15. What would we collectively consider 'more flash' if we were to imagine I wasn't skint right now? Because just possibly I'm not.
×
×
  • Create New...