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Mottlefeeder

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  1. Mottlefeeder
    Price reduced to £180
  2. Mottlefeeder
    Price reduced to £90.
  3. Mottlefeeder
    [b]Update 11 March - now £80 posted[/b] Update 28 February - now £90 posted I bought these to try and cure a Warwick neck-dive problem, but they were not enough - I even tried putting lead in the control cavity before I gave up and sold it on. These were on the bass for a couple of days, and have been in the box ever since. They are the HB6Y design, with a 3/8 inch shaft and the Y shaped head: not the Fender clover type. They are also the shiny chrome version: not the cheaper satin chrome. They are set up as three on top and two underneath a right-handed headstock, but can be easily dismantled and turned around if you need 4+1 or 2+3 These will cost you £135 if bought new from Bass Direct. You can have mine for £80 posted to a UK address. David
  4. Mottlefeeder
    Package has now been split - sleeve and trolley now optional - original post updated
  5. Mottlefeeder
    PM'd
  6. Mottlefeeder
    [b]Updated 08 April - now sold[/b] Updated 11 March - price reduced to £160 Updated 28 February - price reduced to £180 Updated 23 February If you are thinking of building an Omni 12, this is a no-brainer - it is fully working with non-neo drivers for less than the cost of the parts, and if you are thinking of building this version of the Omni 12 but with the recommended neo driver, you can throw away the Delta 12LF, and fit your own neo bass driver and you are getting all the parts and a completed box for about the cost of the parts and a sheet of ply. BFM Omni 12 Original design - £160 Eminence Delta 12 LF, Eminence Alpha 8MR and Eminence APT 200. 24 inches wide by 28 inches tall by 15 inches deep. Crossover by Falcon Electronics: inductors 1.0 or 1.25mm diameter wire – high quality capacitors. Cabinet finish ‘Protectacote’ truck-bed liner I also have a 2U amp sleeve and wheeled trolley that match the speaker cab - they are now optional extras 1) Matching sleeve for amp- £15 Suits 19 inch 2U designs Has a filler plate beside the rack mount bringing the total width to 24 inches. 2) Separate wheeled plate for transport. - £10 Transport arrangements are negotiable – I can meet you within a reasonable traveling radius of Warrington, or I can arrange a courier at your cost. Thanks for looking David A youtube video of the Omni 12 and amp and wheels, but powered by the Markbass head on the rig next to it. The video camera was on a tripod about 20 feet away, and you can see it shake on the low notes about 30 seconds in to the recording. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7VJH27HgSw[/media]. A 45Mb, higher resolution copy of the video. [url="http://www.dustyend.com/finnbass/Omni12Low.mov"]http://www.dustyend....s/Omni12Low.mov[/url] Various recent pictures of the rig:
  7. Mottlefeeder
    The cab is sized for the particular speaker, so you may be lucky, but probably wo'nt be. Download a free speaker box design program (WinISD is fairly good), select the specific model of Eminence driver that you have, and it will give you the right size of box, and the right size of ports for the box and that speaker. 3/4 inch ply will make a solid and heavy box. 1/2 inch ply will make a lighter box, but you have to put a 2-3 inch deep shelf about every 8 inches on each side to make sure it does not flex. If you search on DIY cabs, BFM cabs etc you will find plenty of advice on what to do next. David
  8. Mottlefeeder
    Looking at your photographs, I can't see anything obviously wrong - The original star earth with resistor/capacitor 'modules' is supposed to stop most problems, but didn't. Your current earthing wires ought to work, and I am not convinced that switching earths as well should be necessary Your earlier posts refer to both a buzz and a hum, so the first thing we need to be clear about is which problem we are trying to solve. Deep bass-tone hum is mains 50Hz or 100Hz, and we need to keep it out. A buzz is more likely to be caused by a digital piece of kit, and it can often be suppressed by putting a load on it. Take a resistor of about 1K ohms and put it across the output connections of the pod, and see if that gets rid of the buzz. If it does make a difference, see if it still works on the output of your box, reducing the input impedance of your amp. Since each preamp is a buffer between your instrument and your amp, this should have no impact on your tone. If one resistor on the output works, that is what to do - if it does not, try one resistor per preamp output. If you still have a hum problem, my next step would be to try and find out where it is coming from: Start with the obvious - check that all your jack to jacks are correctly connected, to make sure that you have not lost an earth connection somewhere. Next, connect in preamps until you get hum, then disconnect and reconnect in a different order to see if it is always that socket that gives problems, or always that preamp that gives problems - you have probably already done this. Next, check whether you get the hum with one preamp powered up and the others powered down, but connected - this may identify one preamp as the culprit. If that does not provide some clues, then I'm afraid anything else I suggest would be guesswork. David
  9. Mottlefeeder
    Walker, Going back to the original switchbox build thread, the capacitor&resistor combination marked 'A' is designed to damp down hum loops so they are not a problem. I'd suggest putting one of those in one of your signal earth paths and then checking each preamp in turn on that input/output, to see if it still hums or buzzes. If it seems to help, then put more of them in, until all the circuits that hum are connected to earth via these modules - hopefully, that should clear it. In your previous post, you ask if it is dangerous to disconnect earths - no, providing that they are signal earths, and nothing to do with mains earths. You also mentioned joining earths (serial) - if you are joining them all together, that is parallel. Joining them like daisy chains would be serial. David
  10. Mottlefeeder
    I am not a luthier, so I may be wrong on this, but my understanding is that a paint finish is more than skin deep, so you can sand it and then refinish, but you cannot sand it then oil it - the oil cannot get into the wood because of the paint residue that is already there. Can any one confirm / correct my recollections? David
  11. Mottlefeeder
    If the account has been hacked, and you can access it, change the password so no one can use it then walk away. David
  12. Mottlefeeder
    I'll take a guess that the Ampeg input earth, or one of the preamp earths, was not too good, possibly due to tarnish, or cheap cable/plugs or whatever. Connecting everything together has improved the poor earth, resulting in less hum. As I said, just a guess. David
  13. Mottlefeeder
    [quote name='bremen' timestamp='1353344199' post='1873971'] ... Regarding earthing: ... ... lift the ground from the mains plug (this is safe so long as the units remain bolted into a rack, thus grounding all the panels) or do the RC thing. [/quote] Lifting the earth in a mains plug is totally wrong, and dangerous. Firstly, you have no guarantee that your alternative earth will always be there, and secondly, leaving a loose wire in a plug is a very bad idea. Thirdly, if you play for money, using dangerously modified equipment, you will be breaking the law. The reason for having an earth connection on a mains powered equipment is to ensure that if there is a fault, and the equipment casing becomes live, enough fault current will flow to blow the fuse quickly, thus disconnecting the equipment and making it safe. Never mess with fuses or with mains (safety) earth connections. You can disconnect signal earths, or add in a small impedance as I showed in my diagram. This is the safe way to do it. Some years ago, the Health and Safety Executive analysed their database of reported electrical incidents, and discovered that there was no difference in the scenarios described in the fatalities, and in the incidents that just caused injuries. If you set up the conditions for an electrical incident, whether you walk away or die is a function of which bit of your heart beat is occuring when the shock current start passing through you. For every thirty incidents, one was a fatal - think of it as russian roulette with one live round in every thirty. David
  14. Mottlefeeder
    Yes, each socket and plug is an extra joint that could become noisy, and will cost you to buy. You can use cheap grommets and cable ties to anchor the cables inside the box, or use a cable gland that includes a cable clamp. e.g. Maplins UP95D or JH23A or equivalent, to suit your cable diameter. Maplins switch FF75S is a 3 pole 4 way, which would do, as would their FF74R 2 pole 6 way. You can restrict the 6 way so that it cannot go past position 4. David
  15. Mottlefeeder
    The screened cable is single core - instrument cable rather than microphone cable, and if you bring it into the box through a grommet, you can wire it directly to the switch. for other internal wirng I suggest 7/0.2 (seven strands of 0.2mm each), or you can use any wires stripped out of a mains cable - colour is not important ans size is not important. By the way, there is only one switch, but it contains both sections. When you build it, I suggest using a box that is not as high as your rack panel, and using screws and/or the switch mounting bush to mount the box on the back of the panel. That way, all the unscreened cables and ends of cables are contained in a metal box and will not pick up hum. If you do not have the gear to drill large holes in metal, you could use a plastic box and then line the inside with copper foil - you can get it in sheet from from guitar-spares shops on-line, or you can use slug-repelling copper tape from your local garden centre - garden centres are expensive, but so is postage on a small mail order. David
  16. Mottlefeeder
    Here we go... David
  17. Mottlefeeder
    I've drawn the basic switching circuit, and how you connect the cable cores and earthed screens. If others chip in with click suppression, I can add that (assuming I understand what they suggest... First problem - my scanner at work produces PDFs, which Photobucket ignores. I'll photograph the page when I get home. David
  18. Mottlefeeder
    I'll try and draw something, scan it and file it on photobucket and post the link here. Hopefully by tomorrow evening. David
  19. Mottlefeeder
    Assuming that you change the instrument connected you your wireless transmitter, and you want to switch the receiver to feed the correct preamp for that instrument, I think you only need one switch - a rotary switch with three positions (four if you want a 'mute' position), and two poles, one for the preamp inputs and one for the preamp outputs. I would also aviod the use of a patch panel - it will cost you for the plugs and sockets, and give you more places where you could get a faulty contact. A metal box containing the switch, connected to 8 cables which end in jack plugs, would be cheaper and more robust. David
  20. Mottlefeeder
    Pinball - you have a PM David
  21. Mottlefeeder
    I agree with Bassbod - a passive bass into a passive DI is likely to lose all your top end. Unless you like that sound, I would regard that option as a get-you-home-spare only. Something like a Behringer BD121 second hand would be a cheap and effective active back-up. David
  22. Mottlefeeder
    I ran a church PA system with a loop for several years, and some of the comments here are not quite right. An induction loop is like a loudspeaker coil, and carries audio frequencies - it is not a spot frequency transmitter like a radio, so it is unlikely that you can notch it out. An induction loop is designed to carry a specific signal level, and the amp has built-in limiters so that it will not cause problems by overloading any hearing aid transducer within range. An induction loop is often run under the floor, a few feet in from the wall. This gives better coverage, but also gives a dead spot directly over the cable. You may find a location where you do not have a problem.. Passive instruments can pick up even with their volume turned down, because of the way they are wired. Active instruments will not pick up when their volume is at minimum (not much use when you are playing, but might be of use when you stop) Jazz basses have a hum-bucking facility built in to them because the pick-ups have opposite polarity, so they cancel pick-up when when you set the pick-up volumes to be equal - the slightly nasal sound you are left with is the difference in string resonance at the pick-up positions. The induction loop has to be getting a signal from the band in order to feed it back to them, so if you are using your own PA, look for a live microphone on their system - if you are using their PA, turn down the auxilliary sends. Hope this helps David
  23. Mottlefeeder
    Bump
  24. Mottlefeeder
    Back from holiday, sale resumed David
  25. Mottlefeeder
    PM'd
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