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Mottlefeeder

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder

  1. I've drawn the basic switching circuit, and how you connect the cable cores and earthed screens. If others chip in with click suppression, I can add that (assuming I understand what they suggest... First problem - my scanner at work produces PDFs, which Photobucket ignores. I'll photograph the page when I get home. David
  2. I'll try and draw something, scan it and file it on photobucket and post the link here. Hopefully by tomorrow evening. David
  3. Assuming that you change the instrument connected you your wireless transmitter, and you want to switch the receiver to feed the correct preamp for that instrument, I think you only need one switch - a rotary switch with three positions (four if you want a 'mute' position), and two poles, one for the preamp inputs and one for the preamp outputs. I would also aviod the use of a patch panel - it will cost you for the plugs and sockets, and give you more places where you could get a faulty contact. A metal box containing the switch, connected to 8 cables which end in jack plugs, would be cheaper and more robust. David
  4. Pinball - you have a PM David
  5. I agree with Bassbod - a passive bass into a passive DI is likely to lose all your top end. Unless you like that sound, I would regard that option as a get-you-home-spare only. Something like a Behringer BD121 second hand would be a cheap and effective active back-up. David
  6. I ran a church PA system with a loop for several years, and some of the comments here are not quite right. An induction loop is like a loudspeaker coil, and carries audio frequencies - it is not a spot frequency transmitter like a radio, so it is unlikely that you can notch it out. An induction loop is designed to carry a specific signal level, and the amp has built-in limiters so that it will not cause problems by overloading any hearing aid transducer within range. An induction loop is often run under the floor, a few feet in from the wall. This gives better coverage, but also gives a dead spot directly over the cable. You may find a location where you do not have a problem.. Passive instruments can pick up even with their volume turned down, because of the way they are wired. Active instruments will not pick up when their volume is at minimum (not much use when you are playing, but might be of use when you stop) Jazz basses have a hum-bucking facility built in to them because the pick-ups have opposite polarity, so they cancel pick-up when when you set the pick-up volumes to be equal - the slightly nasal sound you are left with is the difference in string resonance at the pick-up positions. The induction loop has to be getting a signal from the band in order to feed it back to them, so if you are using your own PA, look for a live microphone on their system - if you are using their PA, turn down the auxilliary sends. Hope this helps David
  7. Sale suspended for a few days - I'm off on holiday.
  8. Sold, barring unforseen circumstances David
  9. [quote name='ead' timestamp='1344597587' post='1766854'] PMed [/quote] You have a reply David
  10. [quote name='ScottBass86' timestamp='1344242629' post='1761506'] How much use have these had? [/quote] They have been on the bass twice, and hardly played on either occasion - probably less than an hour in total. When they arrived, I fitted them, tried them, left the bass to settle after I adjusted the truss rod, tried them again the following evening, and then put my old strings back on. A few weeks ago i went through the same process, but included having the bass checked out and set up by a local luthier, who confirmed that there was nothing wrong with it, or the strings. The background to this is covered on another bass forum [url="http://www.finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=8878"]http://www.finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=8878[/url] , but the short version is that because of problems witjh my hands, I no longer play much below fret 5, but I don't like some of the harmonics that start to appear on B and E strings at fret 8-10 and above. I had hoped that flatwounds would cure the problem, but they don't. BTW the bass is a fretless, even though I am referring to fret positions David
  11. [b]Update 28 February - now reduced to £18[/b] I recently bought a 5-string set of Rotosound Trubass 65-135 strings - RS885LD, but found they were not the sound I was looking for. Allegedly made to make a Burns Bison sound like an upright, I found them to be nice and thuddy, but not as woody as I had hoped. I fitted the B string, but not the others, and the B was not cut to length. I paid £33 to Stringsdirect for them, so who will give me £18 for the set, posted. David
  12. I bought a set of TI jazz flats and found that I don't like them. They are the JF345 long-scale 5-string set and I paid £51 (including postage) for them from Stringbusters. Would anyone like to take them off my hands for £35 posted? They have been cut to fit a 35 inch scale Yamaha, and each string goes beyond the tuning post by about 4 inches (5 inches on the B). The ball-to-end lengths are now: B = 44 inches E = 44 inches A = 45.5 inches D = 45 inches G = 43 inches David
  13. Since the last post was three days ago, you are both giving the impression that you have not agreed a deal - BrooksBass you have a PM David
  14. Now gone. Mods - please retitle and move (or tell me how to do it) Thanks David
  15. Apologies for the lapse in concentration - I've had so much hassle with broadband over the last month that I have not been visiting here much. dr Szelma you have a pm. David
  16. [quote name='Netballman' timestamp='1333286908' post='1599555'] I'd love it, but unfortunately I'm based in West London! I was just considering trying to build one from scratch after a rejig at home.... Of course if you are coming anywhere near this way any time in the near future...! [/quote] Unfortunately I have no plans to visit London in the near future. Rather than build from scratch, you may find something at IKEA. There is a website that suggests alternative things to do with IKEA stuff - [u][color="#810081"][url="http://www.ikeahackers.net/"]http://www.ikeahackers.net/[/url][/color][/u] and also this one - [url="http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack"]http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack[/url] - which makes a 19" rack David
  17. [quote name='alstocko' timestamp='1332778604' post='1592995'] Sorry man, I've been away working for the last week. Unfortunately I can't take this off your hands any more due to some unforeseen circumstances. I'm very sorry for getting your hopes up and wasting your time. Alec [/quote] No worries - stuff happens and sometimes you can't get back in touch - and the other person doesn't know until afterwards If nothing else, it's made me strip the gear out and clean up the rack, so its ready to go if anyone else wants it. David
  18. [quote name='alstocko' timestamp='1332113914' post='1583612'] Hey man, I'm interested, and live in Newton-Le-Willows right near Warrington. I'll only be back next Sunday though. Does that sound good to you? [/quote] I'm getting the impression that you don't do PMs. Are you still interested? David
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