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Mottlefeeder

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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder

  1. [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='296045' date='Sep 30 2008, 11:37 PM']That's a really nice looking bass, but what is the rationale for the strange jack mounting bit?[/quote] It's a neutric locking jack socket by the looks of it - they come on a rectangular backing plate like an XLR socket.
  2. [quote name='Thunderthumbs' post='295934' date='Sep 30 2008, 09:57 PM']PM'd[/quote] PM'd back
  3. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='294975' date='Sep 29 2008, 11:00 PM']How is this powered? 9v battery? Also, I assume the headphone out is a standard mini jack? Cheers.[/quote] Yes to both - it takes a 9 volt battery within the box, and the headphone output socket is the standard stereo 3.5mm (1/8 inch). Did I say it comes with headphones? The CD/MD/MP3 player socket is also 3.5mm
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  7. A couple of comments on previous posts - My first rig was a fender 1 by 15 combo, and I built a tilt-back stand for it. It was designed to fold flat, like a deck chair, and to fit within the grill recess of the cab, so with a strap round the cab, it added protection to the cab front, and it was not an extra item to carry. As alexcaber suggested, don't support the front edge, put something behind it to stop it falling over. My frame formed a capital L with a diagonal so the cab could sit on the frame and lean back against it. I'll try and sketch it out if anyone wants further information. With regard to the BFM Wedgehorn 10, when tilted back, it sits as tall and as wide as a 1 by 15 cab. Great on a big stage, but probably too big for smaller venues.
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  10. I played a BEAD fretless Warwick for several years, and the only problems I had were with my bass teacher - speaking about 5-string notes while looking at a 4-string gave him problems. I upgraded to a fretless 5 so that both my fretted and fretless basses had the same fingering for the same notes. For strings, I bought sets of 5-strings, which was more expensive, but gave you access to a much bigger range of strings.
  11. I'd like to add my comments to those already 'on file'. I managed one lesson with Nick before I became housebound for about six weeks. Since we knew it was coming, Nick was able to pick things that I could work on without being face to face, and we discussed my progress by phone. I am now back in the saddle, and recently other members of the band have commented that my playing is becoming more fluid. I can also vouch for Nick's eye for detail, in hand positions etc. - not in the sense of producing clones, but more about seeing where the problems are, and helping you work towards the optimum for you. David Wilson Mottlefeeder
  12. I may be a lone voice here, but I feel there is a risk in starting with your own material. An audience that does not recognise the first song you play may vote with their feet, so I would suggest starting with covers, and move onto your own material when you have got the audience on your side, and finish with a cover that they know and love. Having said that, my only gig is a church worship band, so this is my gut feeling, not my experience talking - YMMV
  13. One thing I would suggest is to go for a rubber tyred wheel. The plain nylon castors are fine indoors, but will shake your gear severely if you use them on a pavement.
  14. [quote name='chris_b' post='246680' date='Jul 24 2008, 10:30 AM']I'm confused!! After watching 2 different bands on 2 different gigs rushing around trying to sort out the same problem I thought I knew what to do when playing with an electricity supply from a generator!! I spoke to a BBC electrician at the weekend and he said you don't need an earth on a generator supply because it is a closed system and all the equipment is local to the generator..... BUT, the electricity regs say you should have an earth every time! What do you do? I guess the safest option is to go for the earth and use RCD plugs.[/quote] There may be some confusion here about what we mean by the electricity regs. The IEE wiring regs were originally rules for IEE members, and had no legal standing. They are now a British standard. The Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 - [url="http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1989/Uksi_19890635_en_3.htm#mdiv8"]http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1989/Uksi_1989..._en_3.htm#mdiv8[/url] is the law (for all people covered by the Health and Safety at Work Act), and says "Earthing or other suitable precautions 8. Precautions shall be taken, either by earthing or by other suitable means, to prevent danger arising when any conductor (other than a circuit conductor) which may reasonably foreseeably become charged as a result of either the use of a system, or a fault in a system, becomes so charged; and, for the purposes of ensuring compliance with this regulation, a conductor shall be regarded as earthed when it is connected to the general mass of earth by conductors of sufficient strength and current-carrying capability to discharge electrical energy to earth." That does not say you need an earth every time, and allows the use of an isolated system as a means of preventing danger through 'conductors becoming charged'. However, when the system stops being isolated (the first fault) your precautions should pick that up.
  15. This is the HSE guidance on using generators - [url="http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/fod/oc/400-499/482_2.pdf"]http://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/fod/...0-499/482_2.pdf[/url]
  16. Small generators are designed to be used with equipment that is local to them. The output is not earthed so that even if you have a fault, and the casing of your equipment becomes connected to either of the mains conductors, you will not get a shock because the current has nowhere to flow. If you have a second fault on the system, then you create the conditions where one piece of gear may be 230 volts different to the next, and a shock current could flow from one to the other through you. The protection philosophy is based on you being able to see the first fault, and chosing to do something about it, hence the need for the generator to be supplying gear that is local to it. If the generator is feeding strings of lights etc, you will probably not be able to see the first fault - the cable pinched by the scaffolding clamp for example, and you will not know that you only need one more fault to make it dangerous. In those circumstances, it is better to earth the generator output, so that the first fault will show itself by causing a trip. A couple of other points - As has already been pointed out, plugtop RCDs expect to see a connection between earth and neutral on a domestic supply, and on a generator with an un-earth-referenced output, they will not allow the breaker to be set. The RCDs in distribution boards work differently, and would be a better option (they do not trip on loss of power). One poster commented about daisy-chaining distribution boards together. This is not a good idea. Every distribution board that you connect through will add the cable to plug connection, the cable to socket connection, and the spring connection of the socket to plug-pin, into the earth circuit, increasing the risk of a faulty earth. Plugging faulty equipment into an unearthed distribution board could make everything on that distribution board dangerous, since there is no earth connection to blow the fuse for you. The best way to work is to use longer mains cable to your equipment, and fewer cable extenders.
  17. No committment at the moment, but I might be interested after July 15. I'm reassessing my rig with a few friends, and the EQ functions on the HA4000 may be just what I need to sort out the problems I have.
  18. I had two lunch-time gigs this week, on Friday and Saturday. We were playing at a street BBQ, and in both cases we played from 11:00ish to 14:00, getting on for a 3 hr set. The musicians came together each morning, with no previous rehearsals, and a set list of about 40 songs, in no particular order. The lead singer chose each 'next song' on the fly, including some that were not on the list, and some that were not in the key of the chord charts we had been given. On the Friday, I could not hear the monitor, which meant that I could hear myself better - on a fretless, that's no bad thing. On Saturday, we had two guitarists, vocals and keyboard coming through the one monitor, and I was struggling to hear what I played. A 200W bass rig in the open is not that loud. The low point for me was a song where I just watched the keyboard player, and played the lowest notes he played. The most interesting point was where I tried to keep my bass line flowing, and not too repetetive, when we hung on a D chord for about 5 minutes. It would have been easier if I knew the material, but their 40 songs are a small fraction of the 700-odd that churches have to chose from, and I don't play them often enough to remember them. The atmosphere is great, and the people are great to work with, but I am always knackered by the end of it.
  19. [quote name='budget bassist' post='228260' date='Jun 27 2008, 07:52 PM']When i play my G string open on my musicman for some reason a natural harmonic comes through, it's fairly apparent when i'm playing it silent or tuning up, it's not so apparent when it's amplified but it's still there. It's not a huge problem because as you can imagine, i don't play the G open very often, if at all, but it's still a bit irritating. Any ideas what's causing it and/or how to remedy it? Thanks[/quote] From your description, it may be a natural resonance in the Bass. I have one on my Yamaha, and I fixed it by moving to a different brand of string, and setting up the bass to suit. You can remove some resonances by adding weight to the bit that is resonating. If you clamp a G clamp onto the headstock, the resonance should move or go. If that is successful, then investigate a fatfinger, which I believe does the same job.
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