itu

I tried the Aguilar 12". The sound was kinda boxy, nearly honky. I think it would have needed a good amount of foam inside it. I did not want to start a trial and bought a 2 x 12".

Many of Zappa's records are tough stuff, but this Cruising with Ruben & the Jets is just too much for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWjo_LyY7bQ

I had my neck sanded thinner. A professional carpenter did it for me in the 90's. He also took the lacquer away from the body and sanded a little bit of wood from the upper hip. He even carved some wood from under the G and D strings. My hands loved these changes.

I loved his incredible live gig so many years back, but his love for doo-wop (like Ruben &...) was not my cup of tea. He did lots of music and I am happy there was something for me, too.

There was a unit called Russian dragon (from rushin' and draggin') years ago, but it (actually they, there were few models) disappeared quickly. It showed how steady was your playing. Some units can be found every now and then in Reverb: https://reverb.com/item/502289-jeanius-russian-dragon-rd-t-timing-indicator

The walnut has black knobs, too. I am not quite sure about the original opamp of the preamp (the type was filed, maybe a 741, or a TL061/071), but it consumes very little energy. I changed it to a NE5534, and the sound became stronger, although the power consumption raised dramatically. Single 9 volt battery. Back plates are plastic with aluminum foil. The pickups are hum-cancelling, coils under GD and AE are in opposite phase. Most of the necks have phenolic resin fretboard, no front markers. My instrument's neck was a bit "soft", it could be bent quite some, but with a 30 - 90 set it stayed in tune pretty well. I used only Rotosound Superwound 606 DBE PSD (double ball-end piano string design) strings. The pots are basic carbon track ones with mechanics in them: blend has a center detent and volume & tone have nice steps. I have seen few special colours (green & white), but I do not know whether they were production models, prototypes, or home/custom made specialities.

Have you ever heard about T/S parameters? This "upgrade" may lead to a serious downgrade. I had an extra 10" element and built a box to it. My intention was to build a closed box, but I received the parameters mentioned and made a total redesign. The element was for a reflex box. G-word cabs and combos do not care so much about careful tuning, but bass is another animal.

Overwater, the C-bass is 36". 35" sure is an option.

Try it, you may like it. I have the Modulus Genesis 5 that works really well.

I want to add, that the vent I proposed earlier is only the other of (a minimum of) two... I wish no one is relying in a single vent. Air has to move, or the room will be like sauna or even dangerous.

Nice Clover with matching cabs.

Do agree! I bought parts and put them together: a Status MM neck, a nice sunbust Hosco body, an EMG DC pickup, a step attenuator (built by me), a tone switch, SS RW light gauge. Parts were close to £1000. But no, wasn't good at all. I took the bass to a master for a professional setup. Almost £200 and... the strings can be adjusted ridiculously low. Feels totally different. Competes easily with my Vigiers. But who would put nearly £200 to an instrument that costs as much? ...and make it feel like much more expensive bass?

Maybe harmonizers are the latest. Delay based are delay, chorus, and flanger... then there's phaser, ring modulator... Digital technology made harmonizers possible: first commercial Eventides (since 1973!) were already digital. After studying Eventide's achievements, there are very few "new" effects since 1970's. Someone else should open up the subject and show the stuff I do not see right now.

At least it's something digital. Do you consider a looper an effect? How about synthesizers, but no, Hagström did it so long ago. Are cab simulators effects? effectsdatabase.com might help?

If you want to have two elements, one box (2 x 12") can be slightly lighter than two (12") boxes together because of the construction. If you have seen modern Nd magnets, you know they are very small compared to the old ceramic ones. The saved weight is substantial: https://www.eminence.com/guitar-bass/bass-guitar/ Sound is also different, as box volume affects two other parameters: the lowest reproducable frequency, or the efficiency. This works the other way around, too: if a box is very small, you cannot reach the lowest frequencies with reasonable efficiency, i.e. the cab will be quiet.

If money is not an object, Modulus RevOlite, Sadowsky is also a good option. A local luthier is third and probably the best option if you have a good view of what you really want.

Modulus Graphite Quantum.

Don't want to remember the company, but the song:

I think - but not sure any more - that Hamer's 12-string basses were available as eeE aaA ddD ggG as well as Eee Aaa Ddd Ggg models. The other was for plec players and the other... you know. By the way, @Basvarken has built one fine instrument, thanks for the video and the pictures!

It is OK to buy ready made cables. Good connectors can be soldered several times. If the material in between is not overly hard or thick, would it be possible to use some tool there?

Well, if you know that audio signals are tiny and cables are usually treated badly, any issue in connection will be heard. Is there any reason not to buy ready made cables? They are not expensive at all. Try Sommer at www.thomann.de

Neutrik is good, but solderless + audio + musician = trouble. Learn to... consult a friend of yours.

I am using the double mono (not stereo?) when I have to carry a fretted and a fretless to a rehearsal or a gig. Not light, but doable.